What can I plant on top of new level retaining wall
Red Tumbler
9 years ago
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Red Tumbler
9 years agoRelated Discussions
I built retaining walls! Can't wait to landscape.
Comments (11)Thanks for all the suggestions! Tanowicki, you're right about the timber wall. We will be getting engineer help with that one. The weird thing about that wall is that the dirt it's retaining is way below the top of the wall. The top two timbers aren't actually retaining anything! (Why did someone build a wall taller then they had to?) I like your thought about building in the handrail! I hadn't even considered that. Deviant-deziner, I definitely wish we could have gone with a stacked stone or other "wow" wall, but it was cost-prohibitive. We had a few landscapers come in to give us estimates for this project; they ranged from $4-6k. We did the whole project ourselves for $800, including all the gravel and sand for the footings. It was just no contest. But you're right, they're one step above cinder blocks (but I'm still proud of my sort-of-ugly baby!). I like the climbing vine idea. The ficus pumila is very cool, i've never seen it! I wish I could grow it in my zone. Chibimimi, thanks for the suggestions! Vinca is a great thought, and guara is gorgeous! I think I might try starting it from seed, Dr. Google tells me it might be easy to start from seed. Thanks for all the suggestions and advice. I stopped by my local landscape supply store today and came home with a car full of plants. The folks there were so helpful and full of information. They helped me pick some winners :)...See MorePlanting Privacy Trees Near Free Stone Retaining Wall
Comments (6)For a picture of our back yard, I think I will have to wait until the wall is constructed to actually get anything that would be useful to this thread. The link I posted in my follow-up is the closest I can come to for now. In that example picture, I posted, our yard would be on the other side of the trees and our neighbor would be the one seeing the wall. As far as the height of the Emeralds, I read that they mature to a height of 8-12' which I thought would be fine since we are sitting up a little higher anyway. I like the Green Giants...but as you said they can get maybe too big for what I had in mind here (10-15' would be ideal for me) and from the little bit I know about them, the GG seem to require a little more maintenance than the Emeralds to keep them in check. Also, do the Emeralds grow as fast as GG but just not as tall? Thanks again!...See Moreretaining wall on top of slope question...
Comments (1)The picture is not helpful. back up with the camera and show a wider view. Take the picture from a viewpoint that shows how steep the slope and shows the reason for the wall....See MoreWhat plants needed to level a table top
Comments (10)I was curious about using plants to level a table top! It depends a bit on how uneven the top is. If it's pretty close (no more than ~1/8" to take off, then any smooth plane will work fine. If there are any really big bumps in the top I'd take them down to approximate level with a short plane set to take a bigger cut. For flattening I'd choose a long "jointer" plane to start with (like a Stanley 7, 8, or 9), as that will bridge the high spots making it easier to get a flat surface. Then you can finish with a a smoother, like a Stanley 4, set to take a very fine cut. To have any of this work well you are going to want to learn to sharpen and set up your planes. There's a wealth of information available via google as to how to do this. Getting a sharpening lesson at your local woodworking shop if possible could be very helpful. If your planes are not wicked sharp (sharp enough to shave with is a minimum) you will have only frustration, while a sharp plane properly setup is a real pleasure to use. I hope your grandfather's planes come to you sharp, flat, and correctly set up, but that would be pretty unusual, so you'll need to check. You will need to re-sharpen whenever the cut becomes less than perfect. Depending on the wood and blade that could be every 10-15 min of work. You will resharpen several times on a tabletop. The quick checklist would be 1) bottom of the plane flat, 2) back of the blade dead flat and smooth, 3) cutting edge sharpened to razor quality, 4) chip breaker flat and square to the blade, set just back from the cutting edge, no gaps!, 5) blade set square in the plane, extended just enough to take a fine cut, 6) if the mouth is adjustable make it small enough to just pass the shaving. There's a lot more of course to all of this-- there are books, videos and endless controversy on sharpening. Most methods work. Learn one well and start making some shavings before getting bogged down in the talmudic discussion of which is "best". Starting new I'd use waterstones, a diamond plate, or sandpaper on plate glass (the Scary Sharp method) just because they are less messy than oilstones. You may find a sharpening jig to be helpful, Veritas makes a great one if you haven't inherited one. Youtube can be your friend in seeing how people actually do all of this. Practice on similar boards you don't care about before launching into your tabletop. You'll need to have a way to hold them in place. Planing is a two hands, whole body exercise. If you're doing it right most of the energy will come from your legs and core, not your arms....See MoreRed Tumbler
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