How to best add soil to long-term pots with plants in them

9 years ago

I have several large pots (like, 18" across or larger) in my back yard, that are full of plants. This being Arizona, we don't so much have planting seasons (there's no time when everything dies off), and at least 2 of the pots have actual trees in them. So, I have pots that I never simply empty out and refill, and for the most part they have live plants in them all the time. Even in the ones without actual perennials, I usually want to plant new things before the previous things have quite died off.

I've noticed that the soil in these pots seems to get lower and lower. I'd filled them up to within an inch or so of the brim, and now they're more like 3 or 4 inches down. I'm not sure if the stuff is just settling, or if the plants are using
it up in some way, or if it's washing down the bottom, but it's gone. I'd like to add some more soil, but I know just dumping more soil in can harm the plants still in those pots, if their stems get buried.

Is there some way I can do this without having to entirely repot my plants, and without harming the plants still in those pots?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (12)

jane__ny
9 years ago
You should not add soil to the top of the pot. The best thing to do is repot. Usually when you see that happening, the plant is dire need of a repot.

Jane
tamtrible
Original Author
9 years ago
Most of the time, except for the trees, it's not the *same* plants. They're outdoor container plants, and I have whatever garden things I happen to be growing in them. Right now, mostly wheat, and the big ol' 2-year-old kale that's trying to flower.
Related Discussions
Long term use of repaired pot
Q
Comments (2)
Just wondering - if you used some form of mesh plastic coated with glue and used that on the interior, in addition to the usual edge to edge gluing, would that improve the structural strength? I mostly do running repairs on terracotta and use a mortar slurry which holds up well under our mild frosts.
...See More
Best clover for long term soil improvement?
Q
Comments (4)
I started using buckwheat on my rows for a few years, where the row wasn't being used, or at the end of the summer into winter. I have been pleased with how it softens the soil after breaking down, and I mix it with the top layers in the Spring. And I usually leave some part of it go to seed to pick for the following year. Buckwheat doesn't add to the nitrogen values, so I'm trying alfalfa this year in some rows. As for the clover, I plant the red clover next to the buckwheat in the rows where I want more nitrogen available. As I said, you would want to turn these plants before getting seeds, or they'll come back like weeds in the future.
...See More
How do i lower the ph of my soil for the long and short term.
Q
Comments (12)
Contrary to common opinion, home test kits for reading soil pH do provide pretty accurate results - far more so than other home soil testing kits....IF you follow the directions properly and use distilled water :-) Given your zone designation, I'm assuming you are in California, which does tend to towards alkaline soil conditions in many areas and also an alkaline water supply.....a double whammy! JaG's advice is valid, however should be tempered with the admonishment that altering the soil pH substantially or permanently may be difficult and heavily influenced as well by soil type. The effects are temporary and will need to be repeated periodically. It may be easier to garden in raised beds with imported soil that has more suitable characteristics. Agricultural sulfur is fully approved (certified by NOP) as an organic application for a variety uses including that of a fungicide, a miticide and as a soil amendment. It is also a very necessary plant nutrient that is sometimes deficient in many soils.
...See More
about soil less starter mix...how long does it help the plant?
Q
Comments (2)
Odd... I thought I already responded to this post, but I guess not. QUESTION: The soil less seed starter mix has no nutrients. The seedlings are growing their 2nd sets of true leaves...but how long can they stay in the soilless mix? Seedlings initially grow off what is contained in their seed leaves, and so have very minimal requirements from their environment except light, water, and something to hold onto (and initially, even the light requirement is more for hormonal issues than anything else). However, since yours are already to the point where they have two sets of true leaves, yes, they're going to need to be getting nutrients from their environment. Now, you can go about this two ways. One, you could transplant into a more nutrient-rich soil. Or two, you could keep them in the mix and just fertilize. The latter case is actually a simple form of hydroponics called static culture. :) And how long do they have to stay under the lights? I'm in Door County, WI. and will have 6 or more weeks to go before no frost danger. They need to stay under the lights until they go outside. Sorry! And I'm not sure if it's SIZE or WEATHER that will tell me when to move them out. Will the plants even survive if they stay in soil-less, under florescent lights that long? Weather. Don't put your plants outside in weather that they can't handle, and be sure to harden them off first! And yes, plants can grow under lights indefinitely... assuming you give them sufficient space and light! **What do any of you experienced people think of this idea:Instead of just soil less starter to begin...Mix 3/4 sterilized potting soil and 1/4 soil less starting mix. Moisten and use this combination to start seeds? I start my seeds without soilless mix at all. I make a soil out of a mixture of peat and compost, with a small amount of time-release fertilizer, and optionally, depending on the needs of the particular plant, sand, perlite, or vermiculite. A base of peat plus compost is great at retaining nutrients, does pretty well with retaining moisture, and is pretty airy. I'm very pleased with the results I get out of it. The only time I transplant before putting things outside is when I have too many seedlings in a pot.
...See More
jane__ny
9 years ago
Sorry, I am not understanding what you are doing. Can you post a photo of the planters?

Jane
christine 5b
9 years ago
I think its long over due for you to replace most of the soil in you containers, maybe its time for a complete over haul, the soil must be so compacted I'm surprised anything is growing.
tamtrible
Original Author
9 years ago

I don't know why it's putting them the wrong way up...
tamtrible
Original Author
9 years ago
The soil started out as purchased potting soil, a year or 2 ago. Maybe 3 by now, I lose track of time. It still seems pretty loose and all to me. The third pic is a closeup of the pot with the kale in (I don't want to repot it, the kale is taller than me and will likely be dying when it gets a little warmer, hopefully after giving me some seeds to replace it). The last pic is a closeup of the pot with my pomegranate, and I don't have a larger pot to put it in even if it needs repotting.
tamtrible
Original Author
9 years ago
Note: I am poor. I can't buy bigger pots for things that need it. I can't really afford to completely replace the soil in the pots I have, even if I wait until there's nothing living in them that I want. I can afford to add a little soil, but that's about it.
tamtrible
Original Author
9 years ago
The other pot with a tree in it, not pictured, is my little lychee seedling out front, which is sad and probably needs help I can't really give it.
dbarron
9 years ago
The components of a potting soil degrade within oh...about two years under average condition and need to be totally replaced, if at all possible. They no longer hold water and compact into hard bricks.
tamtrible
Original Author
9 years ago
The lychee:
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
9 years ago
There really isn't any shortcut to this. You need to repot everything with fresh potting soil. You do not necessarily need to move each plant into a larger container but you DO need to replace the soil. Potting soil degrades, compacts and loses its ability to drain quickly over time. The fact that you think you need to add soil to the top of the containers is clear evidence of this. As is the state of the plants growing in it - they are suffering.

While I wouldn't ordinarily recommend it, even the cheapo potting mixes available at places like Walmart or Home Depot are better than what you have now. At least for this growing season. Consider it an investment in your plants :-)
tamtrible
Original Author
9 years ago
How do you do that without, ya know, damaging the plant?

How to best add soil to long-term pots with plants in them

Comments (12)

jane__ny

tamtrible
Original Author

Related Discussions

jane__ny

christine 5b

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author

dbarron

tamtrible
Original Author

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

tamtrible
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

How to best add soil to long-term pots with plants in them

Comments (12)

jane__ny

tamtribleOriginal Author

Related Discussions

jane__ny

christine 5b

tamtribleOriginal Author

tamtribleOriginal Author

tamtribleOriginal Author

tamtribleOriginal Author

dbarron

tamtribleOriginal Author

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

tamtribleOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author

tamtrible
Original Author