I wish you were here and that I could pay you to do this lol.

In looking at your pictures , I would say that the floor is out of level around the perimeter , which means the bottom row should be cut accordingly . Maybe it has something to do with the prefabricated foam pan and the build ups of the Kerdi bands and corners , but it is hard to say for sure . Did you take some level readings of the floor and walls ?

If mortar corrections are needed , I would do as Tundra is suggesting , however the Kerdi calls for no mortar build up . Removal of the Kerdi is necessary , then proper floating or substrate preparations , then Kerdi and tiles .

The dip in front of the seat is caused by cutting away the tray for the bench and is exaggerated by the build up in the corners. I usually cut the outside 2" off the scrap section of tray and install it in the front of the seat as a screed. (Not that you will want to do this again.) If you did not address floor leveling prior to the tray as Tundra & Eurocerob mentioned be sure to check what you have now is properly pitched toward the drain. If not rip it out. If pitch is OK flash it with the NON MODIFIED aka dry set medium bed mortar. (mapei Kerabond T or similar)

First off the shower should be flood tested for a period of three days.

Then the floor tile set.

Then measure down from the left edge to center and the right edge to center and cut those tiles so they fit nicely.

Flood test .... great reminder . Good catch there , John !

"Flood test .... great reminder . Good catch there , John !" - Thanks Eurocerob. I would be investing in a little Ardex 8+9 personally myself. The seaming looks a little random and there appears to be no folded corners. To my knowledge Schluter has no 22.5 degree corners and I would be worried about those corners leaking the most.

Nothing a do over of Ardex 8+9 can't fix I think

Hey John! I actually had read some of your posts prior to installing and it did pass a flood test (though not three days, I did it for around 26 hours or so since that's all the info I could find) which I was happy about. I flooded it up to the top of the curb so I could make sure the corners were watertight. Also it drained wonderfully, I was really happy about that seeing as the whole reason I tore the old shower down is because it wasnt draining at all (the guy who installed it put no slope in).

Man, hopefully I could do this, some of these techniques seem a little advanced!

Well done ksarny - I worry about the 22.5 degree corners most. I would be great to double down on those.

Measuring the tile is not that hard once the base is set. Sometimes you need to bust out an angle grinder to back cut a few tiles to make things fit a little nicer.

If you study my install you will find I use a smaller backer board down low so I can do folded corners. In your case with such a short flood test it is hard to tell if you where 100% successful.

Do you have access to any liquid waterproofing or something like Ardex 8+9. It might just be the best $100.00 you ever spent after all your hard work.

Here is an old picture from back when I was using Kerdi. See the black stuff? That's Ardex 8+9. This is my buddies place. I use it on all my Kerdi work. So does anyone else world wide that does not live in North America.

Before you dismiss my suggestions watch one or two European Kerdi Installs. What do you think kerdi Coll is? Do you think Ardex makes it for Schluter? If you think not you would be wrong.

In this photo I'm setting up the temporary dam for the barrier free shower. Since kerdi is too thin for a clamping drain and so is the Kerdi DS shown I used a little NobleSeal TS in the mix. A dog's breakfast of shower building products.

End job looks like this.

Red Shower Lighting · More Info

Oh! I actually used some sikaflex on the corners I thought were maybe more susceptible, so that should help a bit. I'll try to find ardex and get it if i can; thanks for the advice! I guess taking off some from the right and left sides of the left and right sides of the corners, respectively, is how I'm gonna go, but it seems like it will be a total pain doing all the vertical corners like that.

It's work. it's hard. if it was easy anyone could do it.

Sikaflex is something I have heard lots about but never used. When I installed a few ACO drains on the yacht job a couple years back they used lots of it.

You have answer the tough questions well.

Well done GrassHopper!

Anybody try this yet LFT ? many pros use versabond w/kerdi .... I have not used vbond in say 5 yrs?

LFT $18 @ bigbox

It's has the words on it VersaBond. Too me that screams Cheap Ass. I have never used it.

Why not try it out and run a couple shear/tensile tests via the C Clamp method. Put it head to head against some 254 and see how it stacks up. maybe test it side but side with MegaLite and Prolite.

My tests these days are using 1"x1" tiles and this makes the testing go faster since I need less water to make the rigs fail. The test should easily see a full garbage can of water holding in place - if fails have way through I would think the product is crap.

Oh yeah, could I just use a corner profile? That seems like it would actually take care of all my corner problems.

Versabond is actually quite good. It is a LIGHTLY modified morter and works well with Kerdi....although, technically it WILL void the Schluter warranty, a lot of pros use it....and I warrant my showers myself. It just takes a tad longer to cure.

As to "Sikaflex," it is great stuff and has a tenacious bond! I use it in place of "Kerdi-Fix" as it's about 1/4 the price! You need to try it.