Here's an idea. I moved the sink to the short wall. I have 25" for DW (+1" panel to support the countertop), 30 sink cab and voided the corner. As far as I know you'd need 3" fillers next to the voided corner so cab doors+drawers on two sides of the corner can open, but if 2" can be enough, then you can have a 33" sink cab. I believe depending on the type of cab (framed--inset--frameless) you may need less fillers. An island would leave you with quite tight aisles, and block the walkway b/w the range and the fridge, so I think it will be better to have a cart/island on casters. If you need the corner for less used items you can do as deedles and have a cab on casters next to the corner.

Your welcome! The cactus and succulent mix by itself does hold way too much moisture, thus the perlite. That is why I suggest 60% perlite, which many view as a 'drastic' amount. In pure C&S soil, yes, eventually the lithops would rot and turn to mush, but the extra perlite will greatly negate the water holding ability of the soil. All the same, be CAREFUL when watering. Use a wooden skewer to assess the moisture level. Once the soil is completely dry, wait a few days, and then water again. It should come to about 1 watering every 2 weeks, depending on your climate. Try not to water over the lithops, but rather around them. This will decrease the chance of rot as well. In terms of how much to water. This is a question that should never come up (no offense to you!). The peaty soils of today cannot stand too much water. They simply hold in too much moisture, and as a result, we begin to regulate the amount of water we give our plants. A plant in the ground will never rot as a result of overwatering. On the other hand, instructions for cute little plant kits often contain watering amounts. The question is, why? Well, as a result of cohesion and water tension, water sticks to small particles, namely, particles in soil. The peaty soils often used today have very small particles, and the smaller the particles, the more overall particle surface area in a pot of soil, which gives the water more places to grab on to. It is not just with peat, however. Any small particles (sand) will cause this water tension. Eventually, the cohesion force (sorry if I'm not getting these terms correct, I've forgotten which goes to which) becomes greater than the force of gravity, and the water is not able to drain. This is called a PWT, or Perched Water Table. Basically, it is made up of a layer of water sitting in the bottom of the pots, refusing to drain. It will never drain. It will only disappear when it evaporates. If there are roots in this PWT, they will eventually rot. The bigger the particle size, the smaller the PWT is, and the healthier the plant. Eventually, when the particles get to about 3/8ths of and inch, the PWT is eliminated. That is what we strive for in a container soil. So, getting back to the question, you should be able to water how ever much you want. You could even run a hose through the pot (with the 60% perlite 40% soil). A good soil should be able to handle as much water as you would like, without doing damage to the plant. I got that from Tapla, and you can read his amazing thread about container soils here. ~palmsandsnow

The first one isn't what we call Winged Sumac up in this neck of the woods (Rhus copallinum). Too many leaflets and I don't see any 'wings'. I hesitate to ID things in Florida, because I'm really not familiar with what grows down there, but could it be wisteria? Just a guess The leaves on the second one look a little like peach leaves. (That's the genus Prunus too.) The third one could well be Bradford Pear. The last one I have no idea.

I'm not expecting much to bloom through our August dog days, but I'll try to put her on the north, where it would be a little cooler. I'll get her next year, on her own roots since Dave in North MO says she gets bigger, grafted, for him. Oh wow, Beth! That's a rose that wants to grow! I know to put this one towards the back of the bed now. I'm hoping I won't have to keep any in pots over the winter this year, but we'll see. Finally order is: MALVERN HILLS MIDNIGHT MAGIC PRAIRIE DAWN GOLDEN BORDER YOUNG LYCIDAS FELIX LECLERC (based on your recommendation in the other thread, Cynthia!) MARTIN FROBISHER THE WEDGEWOOD ROSE (I figured I'd try it, I have a place a tower would work in the shade) So I ordered twice as many roses as I'd first planned. Uh, oops?