Thank You Tigerdunes! We are not sure of the size and we are getting conflicting answers from each contractor. (Either 4 ton or 5 ton). The condenser is a GE ( numbers on it are GE TA048H1B and 215983 508). I posted this question in another HVAC forum and the response was "probably 4 ton". The condenser is located on the west side of the house and is connected (thru a brick wall) to the ductwork in the crawlspace. The coil and unit are in a crawl space under the master bedroom ( the house is on a hill). We have vents in the floor. The gas furnace is maybe 30 years old and is in the attic. The return is near the ceiling where the hallway, den, and front room share a corner - there are 3 grates one each in the hallway, den, and living room. The return ends closer to the ceiling and does not extend down to the crawlspace but there is part of a hall closet beneath it. I think the AC is as old as the house and the condenser may be 30 or 40 years old. It is still working but we started making calls to contractors last month when the condensor would run for a few minutes, then stop. It started running again but we are holding our breath. I can't tell you the humidity levels or what the bills are but I suspect the bills are very high in the summer. One contractor wants to put a 5 ton package unit (Trane) where the condenser is and connect to the existing ductwork in the crawlspace. The other contractor says the (Carrier) coil and furnace has to go in the attic because of the return and he says the ductwork in the crawlspace is sized for a 4 ton. We think we would lose a lot of efficiency if it was put in the attic ( could the air handler fit in the hall closet and would that make a difference?). We have read that package units are not as efficient and don't wear as well in hot, humid climates and the owner is concerned about drilling a new hole in the brick wall. Thank you so much for responding Tigerdunes - we would be very grateful for any assistance you could provide.

Does laminated glass look different to the naked eye? Is it equally energy effient etc? Any difference other than cost? What R rating do you recommend for a climate mild in winter, hot hot in summer? I am pushed to make this change because the windows are not tight at all and lose too much AC in summer impossible to cool properly on 95+ degree days. Thanks for letting me pick your brain on all this.

Actually it's been awhile since I started this posting. I got new windows, they are taupe. It blends with the area painted underneath the window. I've planted native shrubs and perennials in the front garden - it gives a more ''natural'' look, with various green groundcovers instead of mulch. I'm a fan of native plants. Gives the house a casual look.

L R. We have a ranch and have all non-grid windows. It definitely suits the house better. We are in the process of adding a garage and selected windows for the garage without grids and the front door will also have no grids. I think it does look odd when there are grids on the front door and none on the windows. I'm sure you can find some images online to help you decide.