It depends on the look you're after. Do you want each tile defined, like they are now with no grout, or do you want them to blend together and look more cohesive? It is very hard for someone not there to tell you what will look good, since each monitor makes things look a different color.

I'm thinking more cohesive. Matching the lightest part of the tile is what I'm thinking.

I think if you match the lightest part you will get a more defined look. You should try to match the mid-tones, which is the pink color on my monitor. Mid-tone grays also tend to recede, and in my opinion tend to look more natural. If it were me, I would start with a light to mid gray

Thanks for chiming in catbuilder. It's crazy how monitors can be so different in analyzing colors. It's actually a tan shade. I'll post a pic showing what we decided.

"What color grout would look the best with my tile?"

I would do a mock up of the grout first. Those spacers paired (shown in picture above) with an eased edge (tile profile looks like and eased edge) are going to make the grout joints look pretty wide. Since there will be so much grout showing a grout close to colour is the best.

I like the like gray angle myself as well for this install.

Are you tiling over bare plywood? I hope it is not a single layer.

John Whipple: The installer tiled over concrete. Is that a problem?

I vote for a light/medium grey.

"The installer tiled over concrete. Is that a problem?" - Not if the concrete was;

1). In good repair

2). Clean

3). Not painted

4). Had texture

5). Had no cracks

I rarely tile over just concrete myself. Typically I would use something like Laticrete's Strata Mat, NobleSeal CIS, NobleSeal TS or ARDEX's 8+9 first. People tile over concrete all the time with no issues. People do the same over plywood. But the odds are always a little more in your favour when you plan on a little movement and crack isolation I think.

"May the odds be ever in your favor" - lol Quote from the Hunger Games

It looks like your building a drop down shower there. I would like to see a waterproofing membrane in place. Are you building a shower curb there? If not how do you plan on stopping water migration through capillary action?

John Whipple: yes we built a curb there. We didn't want to chance water leaking out.

There appears to be no waterproofing in your shower???? And how's the lippage with the 50% offset on the tile? Did you use a medium bed mortar to minimize the issue?

Green Designs:

They put a black plastic looking material behind the cement board. Is that what you are talking about. Sorry if I sound ignorant but I'm not one of those people that knows about construction. :)

Silver shadow, it is a light gray laticrete color

You need waterproofing done. Whatever you have behind hardy backer is not working. You need something on top of it, like Kerdi or similar.

"....Sorry if I sound ignorant but I'm not one of those people that knows about construction....."

It appears neither does the tile crew. For a start the waterproof liner is now litter with holes. If you have no poly behind the backer board and lapping over the black water proof liner that is wrong as well.

Did they make a pre-slope prior to placing the black liner? Did they preform a flood test?

What about weep hole protection? I would ask all these questions right away before too much gets done.

Looks a little dodgy to be honest. Nice tile. Nice layout. Skipping the key steps on the down side.

Your tile work what most people get. Sadly this is all approved by local building codes.

I imagine the first failure will stem from the tub deck getting trashed. Grout is not waterproof and neither is thin-set.

Update: after all of the wonderful feedback I changed my mind from blending in with the lightest part of the tile to a light/medium gray as many of you suggested. I went by yesterday and they had already grouted one room with the previous color chosen: Polyblend Quartz

Needless to say I hate it! It makes it look dirty to me. So I ended up getting Polyblend Platinum:

That room will be changed as well as all of the other bathrooms. I'll post a pic when it's done and thanks again for all of the feedback sending me in the right direction.

Oh Man. Should we tell her that Non-Sanded grout is the wrong choice for that tile spacing?

That was just a pic for the color it is sanded.

To all of the posters talking about the lack of waterproofing..... I'll be talking to my contractor tomorrow morning so I just am making sure as I have done a little bit of research. According to what I have read it seems to me that I need to ask them if they put a roll on water proofing membrane. Since obviously they didn't use a rubber one such as the product from KERDI. From what I have read today the KERDI product is a superior product but it is pretty expensive. Am I understanding this correctly so far? Thanks!

Thanks John for that info. I was just making sure that a "roll on" product was in the acceptable column of options.

It is. I think Red Guard is crap and the bottom of the totem pole in that category. If your going the liquid route then Hydro Ban is tops. Then Aqua Defence. I would not use any other brand.

I quite using liquids myself about two years ago and switched out to Ardex 8+9 for my non steam shower builds.

Your meeting is not going to go very well. I think you best contact the city hall and see if they have any local requirements. You are surely going to piss off the workers to no end highlighting their lack of skill set.

I help design showers all over North America and on most of the projects I help over see my involvement goes over like a ton of bricks. This is likely going to play out the same way.

You will hear things like "This is how we always do it" "It's fine this way". But the instructions for even just the backer board have been skipped. This by itself is one bad thing. Had even some poly or a double layer of building paper been used you would at lest have a shower that was done right at the lowest level of shower building.