It's taken me a while to get around to reading this thread as we bought a new fridge last year and are very happy with it. It's an Amana bottom freezer, which replaced....an Amana bottom freezer. The new one does seem to run more often, and is VERY slightly noisier - I can hear a very soft low-pitched hum if I'm within one foot of it, when it turns on. If I am any further away I don't notice it. The previous one was so quiet I sometimes wondered if it was running! I love the Amana. Here's my take on the pros/cons: PROS: - VERY quiet. It's a sealed compressor unit, apparently. This has a definite "con" to it, mentioned below. - Holds a ton of food. I have never quite figured out how Amana does this. The shelves are adjustable, but they don't look any different than any other fridge model. Yet all I need do is rearrange a few bowls and jars, and I can slide in another 4-qt Tupperware, a dozen more eggs, and a dinner plate of leftovers. My original fridge was a Kenmore 22 cu. ft. Due to Energy Star/more insulation, I've had to drop down to the 18 cu. ft. Amanas. I was very surprised to find the Amanas seem to hold just as much as the old Kenmore did. CONS: - That sealed compressor is very sensitive to electricity fluctuations. We seldom actually lose power, but it turns out our power is very "dirty"; e.g., we do have a lot of power fluctuations. This is what killed the first Amana bottom freezer after only 10 yrs. I SHOULD have bought an appliance surge suppressor, especially since they're not that expensive! You need to keep an eye on it, however. Once it's been tripped, it's off and useless. Most of us don't have the fridge plugged into an outlet that's easily viewed, so this is something to keep in mind. You want to be able to see if that green light has changed to red, on the suppressor. - I have the 18 cu.ft. SS model, no icemaker. The SS shows every watermark and fingerprint. Definitely needs that new "no fingerprint SS" finish, instead. ==== Overall: only two negatives, one very small. HTH some folks.

First check the water level in the toilet tank. If you look inside the tank you will see a "Water Level" index line either printed or embossed in the ceramic of the tank wall. For the toilet to flush properly the water must be up to the index but it should not be significantly above that line. If the water level is too high it can leak over the top of the overflow standpipe. There is a very simple test to determine if your toilet flush valve is leaking. Flush the toilet to insure the bowl if full of clean water then put a dark food coloring in the water in the tank and let it sit idle for one or two hours, then check the water in the bowl to see if the color came through. If not, there is no leak from the flush valve. (Most hardware stores have some individual packs of Dye markers for this test that they will give you free for asking.)

I imagine you will be lucky to move more than 200 CFM with the actual restrictions present. 200 CFM and a 0.2 sq. ft. duct yields 1000 ft/min, a reasonable (but lower limit) value for limiting grease build up on the duct walls. Internal to the hood, however, the velocity will be lower due to the higher sectional area, and more grease vapor condensation is possible. 200 CFM and a 1.15 sq. ft. mesh aperture yields 175 ft/min at the aperture. I would expect this to be loud. This is sufficiently higher than the suggested 90 ft/min for most residential cooking that it will help collect some effluent impinging on the glass outside the mesh area, which is good. This type of hood is not as suitable for the function of a hood as a canopy type hood can be. Expanding cooking plumes rise up and can miss or reflect from hood surfaces, so mesh or baffle filters need to cover as much of the area over the stove as feasible. I am now wondering whether even 200 CFM is possible through the mesh with such a small area. Is the air noise passing the mesh particularly loud (assuming it is possible to ignore the motor and fan blade tip noise that will be mixed in)? If not, the mesh pressure loss is moving the operating point of the fan left on its fan curve to where the flow is further reduced. What is the part number of this hood? Does it look like the image below? I was thinking curved glass canopy when I wrote above; this type will have less capture and containment from the glass portion due to that part of the plume impingement being separated from the mesh area by a barrier. In this case, the glass is mainly decorative, while providing a cleaning task (for your staff) on both sides. It may be worth restating that one can have only two (at best) of performance, aesthetics, and affordability. Here we have the latter two factors dominating. This is OK, so long as that is the intent.

@opaone: your numbers, while still higher than my estimates, are at least within an order of magnitude, which in this business probably is reasonable correlation. I agree that this could rise to a significant concern with 10 people really cranking away in a poorly ventilated room. So we're on the same wavelength. @spurpura: you are correct in that I've not invested in air quality monitoring devices or hired PhD's to test my house. But my calculations are grounded in simple physics. The only assumption I have made is in the estimate of CO2 production during exercise, and that was from an academic sports physiology laboratory, authored by a PhD and published in a peer-reviewed journal. If you have figures showing that CO2 production during exercise is roughly 10 times higher than my estimate (which is what would be needed to support your observations), I'll await the citation. There are really only three possible scenarios: You are measuring local concentrations of CO2, presumably close to where you are exhaling. Your PhD consultants and their equipment are wrong. There's an exogenous unidentified source of CO2 infiltrating your exercise room. Enough of that dead end discussion. But...as to your original question, I think you're on the right track. As noted upthread, our 1200 cfm hood runs through a straight run of 10" duct, about 25' upwards, with an attic-mounted Fantech LD10 silencer and FKD10XL blower. It measures 60db (LCS weighted, ear level, roughly 4' from baffles) on high. So we hit the mark you are shooting for and I expect your setup will too. Good luck!