Here is my revised list: Revised 'Old Garden Roses' for Small Gardens Dream List (08/21/2013) 1. Autumn Damask (Damask ancient) (gets big but I like it. I have to figure how to use it. I like this rose because of its rose history) 2. Boule de Neige (Bourbon, 1867) 3. Honoraine de Brabant (Bourbon, age unknown) (gets big but I like it. I have to figure how to use it) 4. Maggie (Bourbon found 1980) 5. Souvenir de la Malmaison (Bourbon introduced 1843) 6. Madame Cornelissen (Bourbon introduced 1860 to 1869) (Thank you Ingrid_vc for the suggestion) 7. Beauty of Rosemawr (Tea, 1903) 8. Westside Road Cream Tea (Thank you Luxrosa for the suggestion) 9. Captain Harry Stebbins (Hybrid Tea discovered 1980) 10. Devoniensis (Tea, Foster 1838) (Thank you Ingrid_vc) 11. Francis Dubreuil (Tea 1984) 12. Comtesse du Cayla (China 1902) 13. Fabvier (Hybrid China before 1929) (Thank you Luxrosa for the suggestion) (does it have a fragrance?) 14. Green Rose (China prior to 1845) (I like this humble rose) 15. Old Blush (China Hybrid, 1852) (I like this rose because of its rose history) 16. Fritz Nobis (Floribunda, Shrub 1940) (not a OGR; gets big but I like it. I have to figure how to use it) 17. La France (Hybrid Tea 1867) 18. The Doctor (Tea Hybrid, 1936) 19. Marchesa Bocella (Hybrid Perpetual, 1842) 20. Barbara's Pasture Rose (Hybrid Perpetual, found rose) (Thank you Rosefolly) 21. Enfant de France (Hybrid Perpetual, 1860) 22. Duke of Edinburgh (Hybrid Perpetual, 1860 to 1869) 23. La Reine (Hybrid Perpetual, 1842)

>I'm open to other suggestions in the pink or pink-apricot range Hi Ingrid, Our situation is that we have close to full sun in the winter and very early spring when the leaves are off the deciduous trees. Gradually there's more shade but when the sun is its highest from about mid-May to early in August, the higher angle means that our roses in the sunnier rose bed get sun all afternoon. By now the hours of sunlight are greatly reduced to 2 or 3 in the afternoon maybe and it will continue getting worse until the leaves fall off the trees. Anyway, Duchesse de Brabant is still as healthy as you can possibly hope for (perfect condition in our no-spray yard) and it's blooming quite well. It's a new plant (new 1-gallon last fall) but there are at least 2 or 3 new roses that we cut every single day, with a few that get overlooked and some more that need disbudding. With a little shade to help it along through the heat, it bloomed well all summer long here too, in the hottest summer on record. We cut about 5 General Gallieni blooms today, and disbudded a whole lot more. Spice has also bloomed well once it got going. Because of the shade of a mature azalea, Spice is dealing with more shade than the others but is blooming well now. We had to toss our General Schablikines a couple of days ago because of Rose Rosette Disease, but they had a bunch of buds on them. They bloomed well in June, though not much in July/August, and it looked as if they'd started in on a fall flush. These varieties have all been very healthy no-spray here, but if you're mainly counting blooms, and if you were choosing among those we happen to have, Duchesse de Brabant would be the one to go with. Nice question, Ingrid! I'm glad to read about Mrs. B.R. Cant and Monsieur Tillier, as I have just the spot in mind for them now... Best wishes, Mary

Apologies, Hoov. I'm afraid the word "ivy" is enough to make me flinch. Growing, we thought we had killed the stuff several times. It always came back. At last -- because it really was causing structural problems here, we resorted to a chemical designed specifically for the purpose of killing ivy. (No, I don't like chemicals, but it WAS beginning to rip apart a fairly important and very old retaining wall.) The chemical did the trick. The stuff is gone. And to our very great pleasure, the Baronne Prevost we thought it had finally killed actually came back. We could call her "Lazarus," I guess. ============= We DID place large uprights at intervals along the wall, and nail redwood latticework panels to them. This has modified the effect of the reflected heat, and really helped the things planted there. Jeri

Virtually all "purple" roses can vary greatly depending upon all the usual issues...soil/water pH, nutrients, heat, intensity of light, moisture, etc. The only "purple" rose I've yet grown which didn't have been Cardinal Hume and Purple Buttons. All the others have expressed anything from almost white to almost the right color expected from them. Those pigments demand the right range of conditions to express themselvs appropriately. It hasn't mattered whether the rose was an OGR or a modern "purple". Some have behaved better when provided protection from the light and heat intensities. Some have required acidifying the soil, a few times to the extreme. Some have only provided the desired colors in very early springs or late falls during unusually cooler and wetter conditions.