That's exactly what I got, the 6in spacing 1/4in. I left it in there on the first barrel and it actually looks like it's working (better). I have not experience with this stuff - does it need to 'break in?' I also put up a dual-fan setup on the next 2 barrels. It's sort of working (a familiar story...) - you can see, the water is getting out there but it's also getting the trunk wet (no no) maybe from wind or splashback. Looks like I will go back to the drip and see if that works.

L :) I'm sure it's not a pressure problem. Our pressure is 80psi. We cleaned/flushed the heads when we reworked the station but will check it again. HOWEVER, something I just discovered shortly after I asked this question, is we DO have a broken line or sprinkler head, but not on that station, and all the other stations pop up within 3 seconds....that trouble station takes about 18 seconds to get going. I just discovered a popup that was standing in water all around it. We've turned the water off to the system till my husband has time to track down the leak/break. The station was taking a long time to startup before the lleak. Thanks, M

This wasn't installed recently, it's been there for at least 3 years (as long as I've lived in the house). Zones 2-6 are all for different areas of the lawn. Only zone 1, the drip line linked to the timer, is for the shrubs. There is also a manual drip line for vegetables and flowers in the back, but not connected to the automated drip line. For the most part all the sprinkler heads throughout the lawn are standard pop-up sprinkler heads, there are a couple of the adjustable rotor heads in the back. I don't believe there are pressure regulators on the drip line.

BTW I was looking for gardening advice and it appears my personal garden web has switched over to my pro page. I am responding as an amateur urban gardener only. Hope our personal experience can encourage you. I lived on the clay of the Canadian prairies and has a SSW facing side yard that could not grow grass (too hot in summer with reflection off stucco home) so I planted thyme and let it go. The bees came and set up lots of hives underground, so you know it was dry. Best friends a girl gardener could ever have. No gophers, no snakes, no pests. The Burr oak trees thrived. The foundation was just fine. The entire house was on a manual operation system but I had valves installed inside the house. Likely if you have clay without any ancient rock coming up you will be just fine. Go for it. Shut off the water between houses and see what happens. Just mark where you close off lines in case you need to restore the original system. When our house was newer we had some soil settling from the infill for excavation, but that was easily remedied by adding more and resloping. If you have heavy clay you could slope your side to create a simple gutter to drain front and back at the edge of your property line. Ensure your soil slopes away from the houses. You may want to add gravel for a walk way, which ants and trespassers do not like as much as paving blocks. If you are in a suburb with close neighbors you could work on a mutual beneficial no water zone with drainage to front and back. Hope this encourages you. In our new location we have arid steppe again but the soil is sandy and rocky as we sit on an ancient river system. I have done all the line and layout (the fun dirty digging work) but hired a professional to work at the irrigation diverter. I do a lot of math as a K&B designer and felt hiring a pro irrigation brain to calibrate and assemble the additional pressure controls was money well spent.