It may be a beginner's question, but a GOOD beginner's question! ;-) Here's the story on your Washington navel orange: they don't require pollination at ALL in order to produce fruit. As a matter of fact, though their flowers contain all of the normal 'pieces and parts' (the male and female thingies), there is one important item missing. The pollen (which is what contains the sperm)! Naval oranges produce fruit parthenocarpically. Hmmmm, I'm not sure of the spelling of that, but I AM certain of the process. No bees required, no swapping of DNA, etc. You'll need to look elsewhere for an explanation of why your tree has stopped flowering. I'd think in terms of all thing cultural such as sunlight, potting mix, fertilizer regime, and so on.

Thank you Johnmerr as a response like this will certainly help my patience. I wasn't sure how long the recovery could take so I was afraid that whatever was bothering it was still taking a toll on it. Your help is much appreciated! By the way, Does anybody know what type of bug tends to make holes like the one in the last picture? Maybe 8 or so leaves were damaged in a manner similar to that one. Not all of the bites start at the very edge but most of them are on that section of the leaf and have a similar zig-zag pattern. Random bugs seen around the property but not specifically on the leaves include earwigs, katydids, mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies, leafrollers, thrips,mites, cabbageworms, leafhoppers, etc. Thanks again folks and happy growing! Added follow up. I believe the maIn culprit was found today. An earwing slightly smaller than an inch long and pretty hefty in girth was spotted hanging out on a leaf towards the backside of the tree. Is it possible one earwig would munch through a decent amount of leaves in one week? Seems like damage was done more to younger leaves than the older ones with no signs of smaller insects such as aphids around. This post was edited by Lance408 on Sat, May 4, 13 at 1:13

What you have is not unusual; it is likely an indication that you may be being overly kind to your tree in terms of fertilizer. The "second" set will ripen later, depending on your climate and the absence of frost. I don't know about your fert. schedule; but in San Bernardino there are quite a few commercial groves around, where you could stop and ask them what is the fert schedule they follow. Growers are usually willing to share with you what they know/do, if you show a little interest. If you don't find anyone in San Berdu, look around Redlands...the climate and the soil are the same.

mike: I get very little leaf drop. What little I get is only when I go to highs in the 70s to 80s in about February. There has never been any leaf drop in winter, zero, and I've done the same thing for 7 years. My temperatures are modeled after those in central California where they grow almost any fruit you can imagine including 1,000 of acres of citrus. So your leaf drop may be more associated with too warm by day than too cold at night. It's the heat that will stress the tree if the roots aren't functioning well enough due to cold soil as say after a series of cold cloudy days. It's hard to get a picture of the full tree which is planted inground and about 9ft tall. Other things get in the way when you back up enough for a full picture. And right now it's heavily overcast. I'll try later in the day. Your climate is really pretty good for a greenhouse citrus project.