Cow manure is a bit on the sweet side, so if you've used very much of it on soil that (perhaps) might have started out a bit on the alkaline side, soil PH might be entering into the problem. Get a soil test through your county extension agent. They might not be free anymore (I don't know about that) but it will save a lot of time in the long run to know where you're starting from. They can tell you about nematodes too when they do that testing. Marigolds saved a rhododendron here from almost sure death, and they won't hurt anything to try, growing right along with the roses. But since your roses are growing on Fortuniana, that's probably not the main problem. If it's Rose Replant Disease - it might be - you could try the method recommended by Peter Beales' nursery: plant each rose in new soil in a big cardboard box buried in your ground. You're trying to separate your rose from the disasterous effects of whatever current soil components are killing your roses, much as you did when removing your roses from the soil and finding success in a pot. Punch multiple drainage holes in the bottoms of the boxes. By the time the cardboard totally disintegrates, the chemicals in the soil responsible for killing your roses will have dissipated, drained away. Maybe hide the top edges on the boxes by using lots of mulch there. For extra measure, you can probably help each rose by using mycorrhiza on the roots when you do the replanting. I read that a large public garden in France, where they were worried about Rose Replant Disease when redoing everything, got by with just using mycorrhiza on each rose to be replanted. You might even get by with just using mycorrhiza, but the box method plus mycorrhiza will almost surely work *if* Rose Replant Disease is a part of the problem there. I've used the mycorrhiza brand linked in an article in Organic Gardening: BioVam. The many different types of plants I've used it on have done quite well when getting established, even in the heat of summer, so I'd assume that the product did help some in providing additional sources of water and other nutrients when the plants were in danger of transplant shock. I don't know that the product David Austin or others sell wouldn't work great too, or perhaps might be even better. Anyway, I did do some comparison shopping and was very happy with what I bought. I talked to the vendor for a long time, and he was quite knowledgeable and helpful. If you decide to handle what might be Rose Replant Disease by letting the ground lay fallow, one year is not likely enough; they say at least two years is needed at the Peter Beales' nursery, and that three years' is more of a sure thing. Your amazing drainage there might shorten that timeline some, but probably not by that much. An alternate solution that some people in California use (for gophers there) is to purchase huge (20-25 gallon?) plastic pots or barrels, drill drainage holes in them, and plant your roses in the pots permanently buried in the ground. That seems more like an absolute final last resort to me, though. You might just get started by trying mycorrhiza on a couple of roses and see whether you could get by that way. If not, then try the box method along with mycorrhiza. Whatever you end up doing, a soil test would seem a wise way to begin. Good luck! Best wishes, Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Mycorrhiza I've used (BioVam)

Electric or electrostatic metal plate type air cleaners are good for removing small amounts of soot particles, carbon dust, etc., from the air. Cleaning them weekly is very time consuming and they don't catch soil dust or stuff like drywall dust very well unless there is a very good primary dust filter in front of the the high voltage collector plates which is rare. . If you have hot air type heating, some of the large amount of blown around earth dust can be trapped with a 3M Filtrete static or similar type filter on your furnace. They are expensive but are on sale quite a lot. The result isn't pretty, but in the case of a single room, a 3M filter can be cut in two and modified to work taped to a tower style fan inlet and this combo cleans the air quite well. A good vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter will likely be needed too. This post was edited by laat2 on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 19:37

I was just thinking of a memory foam topper - 1" thick. You can roll it up when not in use, but it will take up space so if your storage space is limited, that might not work. You could possibly roll it up, put it in a large plastic bag and store it under a bed. A topper would make the Aerobed so much comfortable. I sleep on an Aerobed when I go to my son's place as they don't have a dedicated guest room. I don't usually have back problems, but I do get a stiff lower back after sleeping on that for a couple of nights. We have two guest rooms, but when the whole gang comes, we need more sleeping space for adults-some on the elderly side. We finally broke down and got two very nice folding beds which could really be permanent beds. Not cheap, but they don't take up a lot of floor space and are very comfortable. If you have a large closet or basement storage, it might be worth consideration. Here's the link: Folding Bed

IMO, Replacing the battery on an iPad is much simpler on the iPad then on a iPod! The First thing you need to do is to watch a Video to see if it's something you may want to try. After seeing this done you may decided it's "not for you" or you may say "that's easy"! Here is a Link for a YouTube Video: Battery Replacement on iPad. You need to make sure that you watch a Video for the correct iPad. Do you have an iPad, iPad 2, iPad 3, iPad 4, iPad Mini, etc... If you decided to go ahead and do it yourself you'll need to find the correct replacement battery. I would suggest looking on Ebay for your battery: iPad Batteries! The Tools they used in the Videos can be purchased on Ebay also! It's not really that hard to do but beware, you always take the chance of Chipping, Breaking or Cracking you Glass.