If drainage is a problem, you can use sand if you create mounds for the plants using a great deal of sand. A little sand can actually make things worse from research I've seen, but if you use something like a third sand by volume, mixed with a third peat and a third soil and create the mounds with this it should work fine. If you make such a mix without building mounds you may create bath tubs that fill with water and drown roots. You can also grow them in pots mixing 50/50- sand to peat and put them half way into existing soil- or make a mix with ground pine bark that is aged for the purpose (this is harder to find but more often used in blueberry production). If you set up a drip system or water them consistently, blueberries grow very well this way, if you put them in big enough pots. 5 gallon pots would support mature plants pretty well. Is your soil clay? Do you know the texture of your soil? This is something that is not at all obvious and people often are confused about the texture of their soil. This is also where your county cooperative extension can provide better advice than you can get on-line- although there are simple tests using dishwater detergent to get a general reading on your soils composition. Drainage is easier, because you can figure out how long it takes to drain after heavy rains or dig a hole and fill it with water several times. Not sure of the exact procedure but it is an easy search for details.

There are a lot of things you could try to condition the soil and roots which will improve your lawn. First off, start mulch mowing if you don't already. This adds oranic matter into the soil. It gives the micro organisms something to eat and they in turn help feed the lawn. How much do you water? If you water to frequently, the top couple of inches will always be damp which promotes crab grass and other short rooted weeds. Train the roots of your grass to go deep. cut back watering to once a week, 1" at a time. Water less if you get rain. How high do you cut the lawn? Another way to help cut back on crab grass is to mow high. Some like it the highest setting on the mower. I like 3.5" - 3.75". Now, think about feeding the soil, not the lawn if you are thinking organic. Soybean meal and alfalfa pellets are two of the better grain feeds. Spread them at about 15 pounds per 1000 square feet this weekend, then again 3 weekends from now. Milorganite is another good organic fertilizer. one 36 pound bag covers about 2500 square feet. You can mix too, apply all three if you would like at anytime. You can't hurt the grass unless you smother it. oh, and if you add too much...you'll know soon after it rains. you should smell something mild for a couple days, but too much really stinks for a week or so. By adding these organic ferts to the soil along with mulch mowing, in time you will see a big difference. You may be mowing more often too. After about 2-3 weeks you'll notice it green up a bit...hit it again since your soil probably has no life in it. Hit it 3 times this fall, now, late September, and maybe 1/2 dose in mid October. Then just before ground freeze, apply a big nitrogen number quick release synthetic fertilizer so the roots will aborb all the nitrogen and store it for early spring green up. Next year follow the holiday schedule for your organic fertilizer, Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, Columbus day, then the winterizer just before freeze again. This a cultural change. You need to help the soil come to life by adding those beneficial micro oranisms. You'll see more worms and tiny ants, they are good, they naturaly aerate the soil. It will take a couple seasons, but you'll be happy with the results. Oh, one more thing, if you spray a compost tea or spread compost onte lawn, that will speed things up quite a bit. There are more things that can be done, I'm too tired tonight, others will make more suggestions.

Here are my thoughts on the fertilizer you used. bone meal - useless unless you really need calcium and potassium. feather meal - useless unless you plan to be around until the next ice age. Feathers do not decompose in your lifetime. blood meal - not bad for a protein source in a mix like this. Blood is extremely fast release, so use only in small amounts. fish meal - also not bad but in the small amount that must be in the bag, color it useless. molasses - nearly useless. It will help awaken the bacteria in the soil. In my opinion you will get a much better value (MUCH better!!) by buying a 50-pound bag of alfalfa pellets. Apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet as often as you want or can afford. Weekly is not too often. Apply at least 3x per year with two of those apps going down in the fall before the grass stops growing. Even a bag of dog food has more and better protein than the fertilizer you mentioned. The top three items in a bag of organic fertilizer should be strong protein sources. Bone and feathers are not. Soybean, cottonseed, corn gluten, and alfalfa meal/pellets are the top sources of protein (not in that order). Sometimes you see meat byproducts listed on the label. That's good, too.

Asparagus crowns go in as early in the spring as the ground can be worked. You don't want the ground boggy from snow melt though. I live in the very northern Catskills in zone 5 (we must not be as high up as you are) and planted mine 3 years ago in early April.