Is this transplant shock or watering issue?
keep_on_gardening
9 years ago
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keep_on_gardening
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Drake Elm: Transplant Shock + Aphids, etc.
Comments (13)the tree should have been planted when leaf-less .... or in winter... depending on your FL zone ... you were way late.. evidenced by the heat now ... i would not fertilize a shocked plant .... and i would probably not add chemicals.. nor organic bug controls... just more shock ... 3 weeks is too soon for the tree to react to the shock .. so it does not surprise me that you see no budding ... nor reaction .... aphids.. ants... should be manageable with a hose.. to reduce the population ... just spray them off every now and then ... and water it PROPERLY for 2 years ... then cross your fingers and pray ... dont lose the warranty ... ken...See Moretransplant shock
Comments (21)Root-pruning in advance, as far as I have seen (without making a point of looking for latest research) has not been demonstrated to increase transplanting success in a situation like this. It certainly makes no sense that it would. The main problem with the idea is that new roots grown from cut root ends are liable to be cut off when the plant gets dug up later. Commercial growers cut roots of kinds of stock appearing to have a tendency to form skeletal root systems based on the notion that the pruning will cause them to form additional roots behind the outer shell of actively expanding roots. Theoretically they are then getting a denser ball at digging time. Fine when (and if) that actually happens. The Bottom Line  Best management practices are constantly changing as a result of ongoing scientific research  Most nurseries do not have resources to research and write educational materials  Educational materials for both customers and employees need to be updated annually to ensure validity  Information on best management practices is readily available from WSU and other land-grant university extension offices Here is a link that might be useful: The Myth of Indisputable Information...See MoreMeyer 2 Months Post Transplant- Still In Shock?
Comments (9)Hi Everyone- Thanks for the input. The tree usually sits in the best window I can offer it. I think that the lighting there is adequate once it adjusts, because the Meyer that sits right next to it is doing just fine. (But the lighting situation is not ideal by any means! I live in Seattle after all. I moved it to the bathroom counter for a photo. Due to back lighting you could not even see the tree when I tried to take photos of it where is normally sits). Lighting is a solid 8 to 9 hours and that will only improve as we get more into summer. The light it is receiving is overcast with sun breaks these days, but the days are getting better and better with more sun than not. We are moving out of our solid-thick clouded rain season. We are just now coming into spring here so longer days of sun are on the way. Hopefully that will help. It must be as you suggested. It is just taking its sweet time to heal up. I will just give it more time to come around and possibly do a transplant it in a few months. I am curious now about possibly moving it into a plastic pot due to what I have been reading lately about the clay pot keeping the roots too cool. Cooler temps are defiantly something I have to deal with here, so if moving to plastic will help a bit maybe I should be doing that? Josh- to answer yours and Huston's question regarding feeding and watering. I am using the proper dilution of FB (1 cap to 1 gallon) once a week. Should it be stronger than that? I am watering less than once a week these days out of fear that I was over-watering. (I was averaging once a week easily) I am trying to use my other tree as a gauge as to when I actually need to water. This one is so distressed I can't tell by looking at it, but I can tell when my other tree is about ready. I will continue to try to use the dowel just in case. We are not getting allot of heat yet. Just a few days in a row where the window reached 70/75 per the thermometer I keep there. So I know it is not drying out. We have really good windows so even when it was snowing the temperature in the window is a steady 65. I know my conditions are not perfect, but seeing how I have one tree that did just as I asked- given those conditions last year I figured I should try again with another. I think it will pull through knowing now that it may just be a very slow recovery. I will keep my eye on it and hopefully it will start to improve over the next few months. I guess I should have realize that it would take at least that long to recover given the less-than-favorable conditions I am offering it. We learn as we go right! Thank you everyone for your input, I really appreciate it! Hopefully the next photos I post will be of a happy tree on its way to recovery! ~Jessica...See MoreMy New Four Winds Trees pics! (but also transplant shock worry)
Comments (14)Thanks Josh for the reply! I have them under the ledge of the patio, so they are getting some wind protection. I could put them in the greenhouse away from the fan and they would be better protected wind wise, but I think it may be still too hot for them in there? Yes Josh, I love blood oranges! I have another blood named Vaniglia Sanguigno I got from Logees when I was on vaca in CT, but it is not in fruiting stage yet. I just think blood oranges are so beautiful! And i am also excited for tasting a finger lime. The vesicles are round and the juice is suppose to just pop in your mouth. I was reading some fancy chef article or something that says because the vesicles are round and closed until bit into, the release of flavor in very intense and tasty along with the added addition of texture when it pops open. Again, the article explained it much better than I am here. I hope they have the red finger lime in the US one day. What is considered "too hot" for newly transplanted citrus? Mike, I know the worst part is the change of seasons and hauling the citrus in! I did this for years. But now I have the greenhouse and it has made a tremendous difference! For the first time i did not have to worry about leaf drop due to indoor lighting issues. If I remember correctly Mike, you have a greenhouse, but still bring them in around February when it gets real cold? I kept mine in the greenhouse all winter with heat of course. I only kept it in the low 40's on the coldest nights, sometimes even getting to the upper 30's, experimenting since it was my first year, and the citrus had no issues! I was suprised! Definitely reacted much better to the greenhouse than all the years being in my house with lights. Although I did not have the greenhouse up yet when Sandy came, which was a good thing because who knows if it would of gotten destroyed. But when Sandy came, I had my one room in the house filled with all my citrus and figs and other special plants so I would not lose them in the storm. Then, I had hauled them all back outside just to have them all hauled back inside less than a week later because of our freak Halloween snow storm! I am sure you had part of that too Mike? Oh, before I go, should I give them any epsom salts or vinegar now, or when I first fertlize over the weekend? Thanks guys! Christy...See Morehoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
9 years agokeep_on_gardening
9 years agohoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
9 years agokeep_on_gardening
9 years ago
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hoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA