Keep it moist without overwatering but don't let it completely dry out.

For success, the only things you can do really, are:
build a shade cloth/burlap temporary structure to keep it both cool and to keep the harsh sun rays off it. The other thing is to mulch it properly. A 2"-3" layer free from the trunk (1" is far enough) and extending to a length of minimum past the new rootball. Typically, a few feet past the rootball is, minimum.

Don't fertilize it anymore, at least not this year. You can give it another boost of fertilizer next spring as the leaves begin to unfold, or just prior.

Dax

At this point ensuring success is out the window. Try to learn from this mistake. Don't transplant in august. It may be convenient but there's a reason people don't do it. Don't ammend the soil, don't use starter fertilizer, especially consumer products like the one you used. Don't over water. Sample the soil moisture by sticking your finger in the soil. If it's already waterlogged, don't water it. These were all preventable mistakes had you done a little research first on how to plant a tree properly.

if you can figure out how to shade it.. keeping it out of the sun might help ....

how big is it????

ken

My mother in law is big on misting leaves. I typicially dont think its necessary but if it makes you feel better to give 110%.

She might have a point. The misting propigation chambers are popular. Who knows. I wouldnt be late for work to get in my morning misting though

Unless most of roots lost plant is probably not dead, wilting is due to root damage while in leaf. Once it has flagged misting afterward will not prevent that but might keep it from getting worse. Think of it as a cutting, the main need is preventing additional water from being lost via the leaves until it grows replacement roots.

Here is a link that might be useful: Horticultural techniques for successful plant establishment

There's a lot of people from around Cleveland here lately!

We transplanted a small tree once upon a time. It lived, but wilted for a few weeks. All you can do is keep it watered and hope for the best:).

Patience. Maybe it will survive.

Dan

What did it ever do to you?

Just for future reference, it will be much better, for any tree needing to be transplanted in the summer, if you first simply cut the roots around and under what will be the rootball that you want to move with the tree, but do not take it out of the ground that same month.

If you are concerned that you will not have time to transplant it later in the fall then your can simply dig the hole for the tree in the new area where you will want to plant it. then cover the hole's surface with weighted down plywood or something similar to prevent any one from falling into the hole.

Doing this would make it less time consuming and much easier to actually transplant the tree in the following fall season. It would also,ensure that the tree would survive and have a much better chance of properly going dormant and releafing the following spring.

Thank you for all of the encouraging advice---will take them all into account. It looks ok today---will see how things progress. In all honesty, the reason I was so resistant to transplant this tree (several of you told me last year that I must) is because I really have no place for it. I put it in my backyard, but am not thrilled about the space it takes up. Guess I was of the mindset of "if it lives it lives and I'll get used to it there." Hence the Summer planting (which was more convenient for me...not the tree.)

As far as amending the soil, I've been down this road before---having to justify it. A trusted nursery owner (been in the business for years) advises us Clevelander's to ammend our clay soil with peat moss. I have followed his directions (also using plant starter) in planting 1 dogwood tree, 1 viburnum, 17 hydrangeas, and 38 boxwoods. All planted last year... all made it through the winter with flying colors and are thriving this year.

I mulched yesterday, and the area is moist. Will be patient and wait and see.... and will keep you updated on how things go. Thanks again!

Numerous scientific studies have shown that amending backfill when planting trees and shrubs is most often contraindicated and almost never of benefit. Opinions of local nursery owners don't change that. You may see problems arise in a few years as your plants fail to develop an optimal root structure, or maybe your woody plants will overcome the obstacle you placed in their path. Adding peat moss to the backfill in clay soil generally makes conditions worse, not better. If you amend lightly, chances of harm are lessened.

Do whatever works for you, but do know that there are very sound reasons for advice not to amend backfill.

Root-pruning in advance, as far as I have seen (without making a point of looking for latest research) has not been demonstrated to increase transplanting success in a situation like this. It certainly makes no sense that it would. The main problem with the idea is that new roots grown from cut root ends are liable to be cut off when the plant gets dug up later.

Commercial growers cut roots of kinds of stock appearing to have a tendency to form skeletal root systems based on the notion that the pruning will cause them to form additional roots behind the outer shell of actively expanding roots. Theoretically they are then getting a denser ball at digging time. Fine when (and if) that actually happens.

The Bottom Line
 Best management practices are constantly changing as a result of ongoing scientific research
 Most nurseries do not have resources to research and write educational materials
 Educational materials for both customers and employees need to be updated annually to ensure
validity
 Information on best management practices is readily available from WSU and other land-grant
university extension offices

Here is a link that might be useful: The Myth of Indisputable Information

"Commercial growers cut roots of kinds of stock appearing to have a tendency to form skeletal root systems based on the notion that the pruning will cause them to form additional roots behind the outer shell of actively expanding roots. Theoretically they are then getting a denser ball at digging time. Fine when (and if) that actually happens."

I think that's what katrina1 had in mind. Many well respected experts seem to agree with the idea (whether its actually as helpful as hoped for, or not). However the "and under" part of her advice does kinda confuse me.

Ammending the soil isn't going to cause short term death or trouble. Search this forum for "bathtub effect".
Also search "when to fertilize trees"

Textural differences within planting holes cause two main problems.

1. During dry weather finer textured soil may attract water away from coarser texture soil next to it. Two common examples of coarser textured soil within planting holes are intact potting soil rootballs and liberally amended planting hole backfill soil. When intact potting soil rootballs are planted into finer textured material plants so situated may dry out severely within a few days (or perhaps less) during dry weather.

2. During wet conditions in heavy soils amended planting holes are liable to receive and collect water from surrounding non-amended soil. Plants sitting in puddles may drown or become infested by pathogenic water molds. Specimens so situated can end up partly under water after the first watering.

There is no point in adding a small amount of amendments to planting hole backfill in an attempt to avoid undesirable textural changes. Changing the texture of the backfill is the primary intent of adding amendments. If you've added enough to make the backfill different from the soil around the hole, you've set up a possible watering issue.

Very well said!

Ammending the soil isn't going to cause short term death or trouble.

Not true.

As bboy said.

Dan

I think allos may have just mistyped (otherwise the bathtub effect reference was an attempt to argue with him/herself).

"There is no point in adding a small amount of amendments to planting hole backfill in an attempt to avoid undesirable textural changes. Changing the texture of the backfill is the primary intent of adding amendments."

Ahh, but you forget about for the peace of mind of someone dead set on amending the soil. (-;

I do have to say, when digging a hole in solid clay (like so much of the Cleveland area has), it is extremely tempting to amend the hole. The difficulty can sometimes come when you attempt to reassemble the clay back into the hole. It can end up with air pockets and turn to concrete if one is not careful.

Our clay was horrible...I dug a hole once, had to go some where, came back in 6 hours and the soil I had removed was basically concrete balls.

That being said, to alleviate the issue, I usually put the clay soil back in as best as possible, and immediately mulch to prevent any water evaporation and to stop it from turning to concrete.

I of course add a handful of manure as well but no other amendments.

And they do always tell you here to amend heavily due to the soil but I never trusted them.

P.S. People that have never experienced almost pure clay soil...I hope you never have to!

Bboy,
"The main problem with the idea is that new roots grown from cut root ends
are liable to be cut off when the plant gets dug up later."
- Thus care is taken to dig outside of the initial cut.
- That said, I've always read that root-pruning prior to transplanting is a method to
help with larger, more established trees - Japanese Maples, for example.
- In this situation, I agree that it's of little benefit.

Josh