Yea, I get it here too. In the commercial literature it is a common problem with cherry growers. MSU generally talks like the goal is to get the leaves to stay on the tree as long as possible, not necessarily to the very end of the growing season, which in many cases is an unrealistic expectation. Some cherries will drop a leaf with just two spots. Others are more tolerant. Even when the fruit is gone, I continue to spray the cherry trees when I spray the rest of the orchard (assuming what I have in the tank is labeled for cherry leaf spot). This year I also did a special post-harvest spray on the cherries with chlorothalonil. It's labeled for one post-harvest spray. So far I'm not seeing any leaf spot on the 4 different tarts.

Both trees were planted the end of April. It is a major drought here, I must water the trees almost every other day or every three days. Sometimes daily. I don't water too much. We live in a very hot open field, and it has not rained in 3 months. I could not dig a hole now if I tried. It's hard clay soil. (and yes I read cherry trees can stand droughts and clay soil before I bought them) I don't know what to tell you, that I didn't already say. they are many small holes all over the leaves, new and old , brown around the center of the hole. It doesn't have shock. My other trees (smaller ones) have it too. Both have normal leaf growth, and new shoots and are growing well they just have holes all over the leaves. I didn't want to leave this issue too long and risk the tree dying. The Kwanzan is much better than the Yoshino. I can get a pic tomorrow.

You got some great info on the other thread but I would reinforce a couple of suggestions - confirm via your county extension service exactly what the problem is as cherries are prone to literally scores of diseases. Second, if the leaf spot is confirmed you may want to research the info sheets published online by various extension services around the country. Often fungal diseases like this are highly dependent on weather conditions and what may be a problem one year may not be the next. Sometimes just careful sanitation and thorough clean-up is all that's required. If you DO need to spray, be very cognizant of the appropriate timing (this also very weather dependent) FWIW, lime sulfur is an excellent fungicide for this issue and is considered a "natural" product and is approved for organic gardening. Has far better effectiveness than Bacillus subtilis.

The only reason I sprayed a few days in a row was because I followed what another person online said they did and seen good results. The progression of the shot hole stopped after those few days of spraying. No more leaves have turned yellow and died, even the leaves that are remaining with small spots/holes still in them. My concern now is if the tree this season would "re-sprout" new leaves on the branches where they have fallen off. Because since this tree is of a small size still it doesn't take much defoliation to appear "bald" there are only a few branches with leaves still on them. But the branches appear to be very much alive still, after pruning a couple and seeing beneath the bark. But being were in september now I have already accepted i'm not going to see any new growth of leaves this season it appears here in the Mid-Altantic. I'm just hoping that these very same "bald" branches dont permanently stay bald when next spring comes.