Ooh those look lovely. I suggest you think about purchasing one of those plastic greenhouse thingies. One that looks something like this : This will help keep the moisture and heat in. Also, you can try using heating mats under the pots and seed trays. I've also heard that old electric blankets work well for this sort of thing. Lastly you need to put the lights as close to the plants as possible without touching them. Otherwise your seedlings will grow very tall and spindly and will become weak plants. The roses would benefit from the stronger light too. also, nor humidity can bring fungus so be prepared to spray them should they get blackspot or mildew and remove any leaves or plants that become infected to avoid spreading of the disease. These things spread fast in such close quarters. You'll soon find that these grow lights are great to have for getting a jump start on seed staring each year. I've had petunia and marigold seedlings even start to bloom under my lights. And like Francis says above, you don't need fancy full spectrum grow lights for this. Any florescent light will do, but the brighter the better and more neutral is better too (not too warm, not too cool) as white as possible. If you are new to seed starting try starting out with Petunias. They are super easy to grow from seed. Also Zinnias, snapdragons and marigolds are all very easy from seed too. Happy growing!

Your situation really doesn't surprise me, if I have seen it once I have seen it a thousand times. While the bedroom / bonus room have low air as you stated the combination of this problem plus no return or thermostat control in those areas just due to where the equipment is placed or the longer run of those ducts can create comfort issues in the heat of summer. When there is light exposed to what the real problem is gives a better ability to offer things that will rectify the issue. In dealing with hot spots a zone system is a higher cost option to rectify the issue for the simple reason a zone system has the ability to better control a system. The caveat if you will is the 'design'... the other thing is architectural limitations of the structure. While some situations in which a zone system is used can reduce equipment costs, that is not it's only function. If rooms are a considerable difference from the equipment that serves it, a zoned system may be the best method to rectify that issue. The other method would be to relocate the equipment to a more central location within the structure so that the ducting to each area is more equal. In a zone system the equipment will cool / heat each zone independently so while location of the equipment is still some what important, not as much as a non-zoned system. A new return added to a hot spot will help, but it may not rectify the issue 100% for the simple reason the thermostat location now can not sense temperature in that area. If you move the thermostat then the problem is merely shifted to a new area outside the reach of the thermostat. This is how a zone system excels. Provided the design is done correctly. While it's true that 2 speed, 5 speed and full on inverter systems excel in a humid climate, that is not the only purpose of those machines. Because of the high utility cost in the location of where this structure is... it is in the interest of this home owner to choose the most efficient equipment they can. If it were me I would go with Inverter system 20 SEER or higher. (5 speed or full inverter variable) If you can't afford both at once or you want to make sure a company is worth their salt, consider awarding a company with the system that has the problem area first. Tell them if they rectify the issue with the trouble spots you will reward them with replacing the other system as well. If you hire them and it goes terribly wrong, hire in another contractor to fix the problems and then you have something to use leverage to get another contractor to take over the maintenance and service of both systems... the contractor who fixes the problem system gets the right to replace the other system. Additionally given the information of those hot spot problems, trying to drop this to total of 5 tons of cooling would be a disaster. For others that happen to read this thread with similar problems I service the Katy, Texas area.

The tower cabinet is still there. I was trying to show the niche so it cut off that part of the room. The niche is cut out of the right side of the tower cabinet. The replacement vanity is the same size as the original 36". I agree extra storage is good to have but I doubt I'd actually use the niche. I think I'll need to lose the niche if I lower the lights. Does the tower cabinet look weird? Or was it the right call to keep it? It's a 1 bed/1 bath condo so no need for double sinks. I think 2 people in the room would be cramped.

The blue wire is from the old cieling fan . And someone previously posted the blue was ground And there is the reason you should be hiring an electrician. Blue wires are typically "hot" for the lights in the ceiling fan. When you hooked it up to the bare ground wire from the fixture, you create a short and tripped the breaker. However, you never really know unless you have a pro look at how things are wired. Be careful taking advice from the internet on issues that could cause you home to catch for or create a danger for you and your family.