Opinions Sought on Large Scale Cocktail Party
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9 years ago
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9 years agosushipup1
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Comments and suggestions sought for new patio.
Comments (7)Thank you all for your comments. Drainage and overland flow is an issue here - unfortunately the city is the one that caused the problem. According to the neighbors the city put in curbs and gutters in our area about 10 years ago but they never put in any storm sewers. So during any rain event all the water shoots down the driveways uphill from us then through both our rear neighbor's lawn and ours before making it to the patio. There is a decent amount on infiltration through the lawns so we don't have any rivers through the grass and the grade around the patio does a little bit to mitigate the water on the patio issues - but not enough. The basement has been waterproofed along the rear of the house... Anyway, I know the drainage is an issue but there won't be anything done about it by the city so I'm left to fend for myself. Thank you for your thoughts of privacy from the neighbors... that has been a thought of mine too. Luckily the house to the left doesn't really look over our patio area as their house has an extension (with no windows in our direction) at the back that runs along the property line and extends about 20' past the back of our house. The house on the right would have a pretty direct line of sight to the patio so it is that side (south) that would need the screening. I've been thinking that some blueberry bushes might be nice there... mind you I know nothing about blueberries except that I love to eat them and that the blueberry bushes at my mother in laws house are large and georgous (she is Atlanta though, so what works for her probably will not work for me in Ohio)... I guess I need to do some research :) Another thought we've had is to do some sort of trellis / arbor / pergola thing to give some privacy and to eventually provide some shade on the patio during the day. I've had a look on line and in books at the library and seen some things that look a nice but nothing yet that gets my motor going. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear or see them. We haven't really given any thoughts to a wood deck... I think it is because we've never seen one that we really like. My father's deck seems to be alot of work (cleaning, sealing, warping...) granted it is over 20 years old. I know nothing of the recycled wood products though. I"ll think about it, but can already imagine my husband's reaction to the idea - "no". We've had the neighbor's landscaper over here a couple of days to have a look at things and he came up with some really nice plans. He does interlocking concrete pavers. His portfolio has some really nice pictures of his work in it and I've seen some of his patio work at another neighbor's house which looks really nice 2 years after installation. It doesn't hurt that his is a young company that is hungry to do work so his prices seem reasonable... the other paver guys that said he couldn't even imagine anything going in under 10K made me gag (same guy that told me I'd need over 400SF). As for size... once the rain stops I will drag out the hose and see what kind of space I think I'll need to feel comfortable and then add about 10%. Thank you again for all your comments. Andria...See MoreTreating scale on large, very-leafy plants?
Comments (50)I'm an avid orchid grower and a few odds and ends thrown in. I use cinnamon for all cuts and 'rotting' spots or damage spots. Cinnamon will burn orchid roots. I don't care to spray for anything. It just goes everywhere and then there are the airborne particles to contend with. I go with a drench. I use Merit 75, which is expensive but will last me a lifetime. I use it as a drench. 1/8 teaspoon to a gallon of water and drench the soil/medium. Now, I have used it on orchids and hoyas and succulents. But not on anything else. This year, I will be applying it to all my plants which will include the arrow leaf plant, table palms, coffee plant, bird of paradise, and a few others (sorry I have no specific names for my plants). I also relate this as I do not know if there are plants sensitive to this product. I drench by watering the plants medium/soil once a week for three weeks in a row and an extra week if I have mealies. The plants take the product up through their roots and into all parts. The insect bites and takes the toxin into its system and dies. You don't have to worry that you have not 'gotten' all the parts nor do you have to worry about scale on the roots or hidden on the plant. No dripping leaves, or wet walls/floors or airborne particles. All in one place - the soil and IN the plant....See Moreideas sought for foundation planting
Comments (10)Hi philosopher!~It has been awhile since I've been at this site, I see you're still struggling with your plant grouping. :( Reminds me of me. We have very different houses (mine is a frame colonial) but similar situations: a tall house on a small close to the sidewalk lot, and an assymetrical entry. I have also used grasses, mine are planted at the base of the steps for symmetry. Do you have any planting area to the right of the front door? I was thinking a tracery of branches or vines reaching for the door arch would be pretty. Where does the idea that you need something vertical at the corner of the house come from? I really like the little flare at the base of your facade, and I don't think you should cover it up by planting too close to it. Having said that, someone photoshopped a conifer into a picture of my house, I think they used a blue juniper. Juniperus scopulorum 'Wichita Blue' would probably fit the bill. Be careful not to plant it too close to the foundation. I like the idea of boxwoods for winter interest, but a mix of deciduous and evergreen shrubs would be more interesting. I planted three dwarf inkberries, and while I do have green color in winter (and there's something to be said for that), it's not a very interesting feature. I'm tempted to move them again (for the third time)! A little grouping in my side yard is better. I have 'Emerald Gaiety' euonymus planted to eventually crawl up the fence, fronted by a red-twigged dogwood and a mugo pine. The "small" side of the steps also works. I have a purple ninebark and a Virginia sweetspire. I HAD some beautiful sedum in front of the shrubs. I moved them and they are languishing, so I may try moving them back to where they were happy, or getting some more. Dianthus as edging (evergreen, well actually blue-green, foliage). These require super sharp drainage, so I've planted them in pea gravel. Maybe you could try them in the rock garden? Winters are so long and so cold, I've been tempted to remove most of the perennials and concentrate on shrubs for winter interest. I would use a few annuals for summer long color. I like the idea of having a collection of miniature conifers in your rock garden. I think it would benefit from layering some small boulders into the beds, and would help focus the eye on little vignettes created by the various textures and combinations you create. Don't forget to let us see what you come up with! :)...See MoreHere we go- early stage layouts- advice sought (help me please!)
Comments (14)Aisle widths...The NKBA has recommendations of minimum aisles... 6: Work Aisle The width of a work aisle should be at least 42" for one cook and at least 48" for multiple cooks. Measure between the counter frontage, tall cabinets and/or appliances. I would aim for 42" for each aisle for an aisle with no seating (but no less than 36" and only if you have no DW or oven opening into it). 8: Traffic Clearance at Seating In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner [and not a work aisle or appliances], allow 32" of clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area. a. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36" to edge past. b. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 44" to walk past. Since you have appliances behind the island on the seating side (as well as doorways), you should aim for at least 54" b/w the counter edge to the appliance. Are you planning on getting rid of the door directly behind the island? It looks like a basement door, so I don't think you can w/o moving the stairs. All that noted, your kitchen isn't deep enough for those aisles, so you need to make some decisions on how functional you want your kitchen vs what you want, regardless of how it functions. Standard wall runs of cabinets are 25.5" deep...24" cabinet + 1.5" overhang Seating overhang for counter-height should be a minimum of 15" (and skimping won't help...people will take the same amount of space while seated regardless of overhang depth...they'll just be less comfortable with a too-shallow overhang. A human body can be squeezed only so much...) [I was thinking about this Wednesday night as I was seated at an island w/12" overhang for a meeting...no one was able to sit close to the island edge, we were all pushed back and had to lean in to get to the surface of the island...it wasn't very comfortable.] So, if you want an island w/seating in a kitchen, this is what you need for a kitchen depth: 25.5" sink run + 42" aisle + (25.5" on cabinet side of island + 15" seating overhang) + 54" aisle = 162" (13'6") You have 150" or 12'6"...so 12" short. (24" sink run cabinets + 39" aisle + + 42" island + 45" aisle = 150") [That 13' measurement includes the bay window) Now, you can reduce the aisle a little, but not much. Say, make the aisle behind the island 48" to gain 6". However, you're still 6" short. Since the DW is on the aisle b/w the island & sink run, narrowing the aisle 6" isn't really a good idea. Maybe 3", but not 6". Your only real option is to take the extra 3" to 6" from behind the island. But, as Bmorepanic noted, it will limit what you can do when someone is sitting at the island. So, what are you doing w/the bay window space? Have you considered expanding the kitchen into that area and using the DR for all meals and the island for snacks? Dishwasher...I suggest......See MoreUser
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