Dear SusanB Thank you very much for your inquiry. I do not want to confuse this establishment issue and perhaps I was not very clear. The straw mulch you will here people refer to is used when you establish grass from seed, not sprigs or sod. I use the word straw because I do not want anyone to use alfalfa hay as their mulch source. I hope this helps clear up any confusion. Again, thanks for the question and let me know if you have more. Respectfully Trey Rogers The Yard Doctor

If it were me, and there is a pretty big difference in the seed size, I'd probably go over it twice with a spreader; once with one seed type, and then once again with the other.

Not really that hard to find, both can be found on Amazon. Prodiamine Tenacity Also at http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/ if you prefer. It's a bit of an expense upfront but they will both actually save you money. Without Tenacity you will have an explosion of weeds as soon as you seed and start watering, it will cost you a lot to control selectively after the fact and ruin your lawn. There is a starter fertilizer available at Home Depot which contains the same active ingredient, however it will cost you ~$150+ for your size area. If you get the Tenacity bottle for $60 and starter fertilizer separately it will come out to about the same but you will still have half the bottle left for subsequent weed control and seeding projects. The Prodiamine jug will last you 10 years and cost $6 per spring app at 6 month rate. The equivalent protection with Home Depot products would cost you $100 per spring app at 6 month rate, so the Prodiamine jug will save you $940 over the next 10 years. With that size lawn a tow behind sprayer would be a wise investment. Also, it would be worthwhile to keep looking into buying bulk lawn care products( e.g herbicide concentrates, fertilizers etc.) rather than stuff from big box stores, it gets very expensive when you have that many square feet to cover.

Picture me pointing a long-handled filbert paintbrush at you. I shan't make you happy here. :-) Typical for me, I didn't rinse it first and I just got paint all over myself, so there's that. I'm used to it. Water as needed. For a new lawn, in summer, on a spring planting, observation is going to be your friend. The lawn is young, weak, and very susceptible to disease...and to drying out. This can be like walking a tightrope. A good rule of thumb is going to be twice a week but...this is a slope. The top may need every other day while the base is too sodden and rots. In that case, keep the time down up top. You see what I'm getting at here. A cooler summer would mean to water a bit less. Hot weather, water more. If you see disease...don't diddle about, react instantly this one year. The lawn's too young to withstand it. It's going to take a lot of attention.