Sorry it took me this long to respond. I haven't had a lot of free time lately. I'm not familiar with Reveille, so I can't comment on it from personal experience. I've read mixed reviews on it in the past, both in terms of how much water savings it provides and in terms of how good it looks as a turf grass. Buffalo grass is one of the most drought tolerant and drought resistant grasses around. Many people who plant it mix it with blue grama, another warm season native grass. Buffalo grass spreads via above ground stolons and blue grama is a bunch grass (although it will spread a little bit via tillers, especially if it is mowed regularly). Blue grama is more shade tolerant than buffalo grass, but both will do better in sun. Neither should be fertilized more than one time a year at a rate of about 1/2 lb N per 1000 sq ft. They'll stay green if you water them once or twice a month during the summer. They have deep roots, so it's best to water deeply. The cool season grasses I mentioned (thickspike and western wheatgrass as natives and crested wheatgrass introduced) will only need a little more water than a buffalo grass/blue grama lawn. If I remember correctly, I watered three times last year, once in July and twice in August. But we had two inches of rain in June, which is unusual. I anticipate watering two to three times a month in a "normal" summer. I have streambank wheatgrass instead of thickspike, but they are closely related (some people say that streambank is a variety of thickspike and not a distinct grass), so I assume the colors and blade thicknesses will be pretty close. My streambank wheatgrass is a very fine bladed grass (similar to a fine fescue) and I think it's a nice color, but it is definitely a paler shade of green than KBG or tall fescue. Western wheatgrass has wider blades than streambank wheatgrass and is almost blue in color, but I think it looks nice and it stays green with no water longer than streambank wheatgrass does. Once it goes dormant, it needs to be watered deeply to break out of dormancy because most of its root mass is deeper in the soil (at least a foot and down to 8-10 feet deep). Both of these spread via rhizomes. Western wheatgrass is harder to get started, but spreads more aggressively once it does get going. Crested wheatgrass goes dormant faster than western wheatgrass, but snaps out of dormancy with even light rain. Older varieties were bunch grasses, but there are several varieties that spread slowly via rhizomes. I used to think it was too yellow to make a good lawn, but I found some grass growing this past summer that I identified as crested wheatgrass and realized that it darkens once it establishes. The cool season grasses I've listed all have similar fertilization requirements to buffalo grass and blue grama. In fact, overfertilizing can harm them. They'll tolerate moist soil in the spring and fall, but if they get too much water, they may suffer. Since the amount of water needed by these cool season grasses is only marginally more than what the buffalo grass/blue grama lawn needs, and the growing season is much longer, I think they make a better choice for a low water lawn in Colorado and Utah than the warm season options do.

What seed did you use? Grass doesn't really freeze but it can be affected by the cold.

Wow 7.0 PH, hard to believe but perfect. Ok letÂs store away any post-mergence herbicides until next year. I know that seems odd, but it is too-late and too hot to be of any good now. Using any now would set you back. The grass type you planted are very good common types, good choice. However they are not the types you can mow real low to the ground like hybrids. So letÂs raise the cutting height a bit too around 1 to 1-1/2 maybe even 2-inches for the rest of the year. I looked at your pictures and noticed a bit of scalping and thin areas as a result of mowing to low for your grass type. Not to worry, plenty of time left to get things in order this year. Over all looks very good for a May panting. You have also discovered a watering problem. 20-minutes per zone is not enough for any irrigation system to put down 1-inch. You say 1-hour will do it, sounds good to me; just make sure 1-hour is the ticket to 1-inch. With that said you have very young grass with very shallow roots. With your previous under-watering, severe heat, and what sounds like a schedule by your description, your grass has been deprived of water and shows it a bit along with scalping. So here is what you do. Get out of the habit of watering once a week whether it needs it or not. LetÂs learn to water when the grass says it is thirsty and ready for a drink. In this hot weather coupled with your young shallow rooted grass, it is more than likely to be more than once a week. What you need to learn is to look at the grass and let it speak to you. Sounds crazy but is very easy. There are two ways to tell: Colored Talk: Yes I am joking and serious. Bermuda will change color from emerald green to a slightly blue or grayish color. This is caused by the blades wilting and curling up to conserve moisture. The undersides of the blades are a different color than the top, so when it wilts the hue changes color. DonÂt wait for the whole lawn to change color, look for the high and dry parts to just start the change or the very first signs. Soak it. Walk Test: Just simply walk across the lawn and look back. If your foot prints do not disappear quickly, and it feels crunchy, SOAK IT As far as fertilizer goes, only use straight nitrogen for now like 29-0-0. Preferable a slow release urea type applied every 45 days up till about 30-days before you expect a frost. At that time we will talk about a pre-emergence herbicide, but for now forget about herbicides other than either ordering one for the fall and spring applications. Hope that helps.

Sod is always the way to get primo results pronto. If money or inclination is against that, use a slit seeder because it is much easier and better than other options. Next best, mow short, dethatch, vacuum lawn, broadcast seed, use lawn roller (which you should use after any effort at seeding, including, imho, slit seeder. Final option, rake, broadcast and roll. The results generally will taper off from best to worst options. But, if you don't have alot of organic matter on top and its not too late in the season and you irrigate properly, the good news is you can have fine results with even the least of the options. I have one little area in my recent overseed of my 8000 ft yard where I had poor sprinkler coverage and I am going to do just that option and hope for the best (and use a sprinkler hose on it this time).