klem1 gives good advice.

I would like to add that if this is a production table vs. custom made, it most likely has a toner on it as a finish (which is what it looks like to me in your picture). Toner is tinted finish, usually tinted lacquer. Factories do this so that what you see in the store is the same as what you get if you order it. If it is a toner, just applying clear lacquer won't match what is there.

Good point Al,and to the very point of not burning any bridges. Might be good idea to test after removing silicon. Touching it with a saliva moistened finger will tell you pretty close to what it will look like when clear coated. I have very little experience with toners but if that becomes a problem that someone here can't help you overcome,sanding intire top would be an option. Although stripping top can be a lot of work,it is possible to have a better looking table sans toner. I make that statment based on the opinion anything between walnut and the finish only obscures the natural beauty. i realize some are as Al pointed out,"expect every table to be a clone".

If someone were to bring the table to my shop for "repair" the only approach I would take with something like this is to completely remove the finish and refinish it. You (at least I will) will always see a patch.

As to obscuring the finish, I only use toners when I absolutely have to. I even try to stay away from stains as much as possible, opting instead for the use of dyes.

^^^ I'm with Al.

This is too good a table to give it less than your top-level work, AND it's easier to do a good job on the entire piece than an invisible patch. It takes less time.

Carefully strip the finish from the top, using whatever dissolves the finish, lightly sand the whole top (with a sanding block, not any power tools), then reapply whatever finish it was according to the directions on the container.

Thanks everyone for taking the time to give advice.

I am fairly confident the finish is lacquer based on the information on the Room and Board website. Whether it has a toner in it or not, I'm less sure. I may contact them to see if they use toners. I tried the saliva test, although I haven't done a silicon remover, and it looks very, very close to me.

I should say at this point I have very limited experience with furniture--only a class in college and a very occasional weekend project.

With 2 little kids, I'm not sure I can strip the whole table top in the near future. Would I do damage that wouldn't be undone with a full strip and refinish if I try the aerosol deft method first? I'm nervous to delay the repair and have something spilled on the raw wood creating a bigger problem.

If I took this to a professional to fix, what would be a reasonable cost to expect?

"If I took this to a professional to fix, what would be a reasonable cost to expect?"

Same as diy,quility of results is commensurate of investment,beit time or money. Professional is simply one who makes a living doing it and if you browse these forums it becomes clear skill and cost varies among pros. You will do all of us a favor by making it known up front wherther you are looking for a slow job,a fast job or half fast job,there are simply no free rides in finishing. Short cuts always show. For quick and dirty, wet a rag with slow lacquer thinner, wipe bare and surounding area changing rags until old finish blends with bare spots,spray and call it done. That should hold it until you spend a few years acumilating enough money or experience to do it right. Who knows,you might be completly satisfied.