Standard vs pocket vs barn door
dragonfly08
9 years ago
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numbersjunkie
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Pocket door vs. sliding door
Comments (7)greenfingernail- I think you need to get your handyman to be more specific about what he means by these terms. Somewhat different hardware is required for the two and he should be able to show you exactly what each would entail, and why the costs are different. In addition, there is also the concept of the residential "barn door" style, which is a door that slides back and forth on a track that is mounted on the outside of the wall. He may or may not be talking about this when he refers to "sliding doors." Here is a link that might be useful: Barn Door styles...See Morepocket door frames: Johnson vs. Häfele/Hawa vs ???
Comments (38)HI all. I've down the pocket door rabbit hole for quite a while. I am looking for three (3) pocket doors, all in - 32" for all. Two will be into and out of a walk through closet and one will be into a water closet (poop room). I have used Johnson and I don't want to do it again. It is 2023, April and everything is so much more expensive than I remember but here is what I could find - All Hawa w/ Futura frame and 80/Z soft close - $1,006 Cavity Sliders, with soft close - in stock locally - $720 HDPocketDoors - 80/Z $986 80/B $1278 I am leaning toward HDPocketDoors - looks like a solid frame with Hawa hardware at a reasonable price. Some questions for y'all - 80Z vs 80B ..... What I like about 80B is the whole mechanism is removable without tearing out hte wall. The top/carrier track stays in and you can remove and adjust and level the actual running track. Pretty slick. But it is a mortised connection to the door and will likely stack up costs as I figure out how to implement. Nothing wrong with 80Z 2x6 vs 2x4 - I can do 2x6 everywhere, even in the existing wall with some added meat. I think a 1-3/4" door and a 2x6 frame will make life easier with install, clearance, and choice of pocket hardware - thoughts ? Cavity Sliders - anybody out there use them ??...See MoreEpoxy vs Urethane vs standard grout. I hate cleaning grout! Help!
Comments (13)A couple things I’d like to add. I put epoxy grout in both my bathroom remodels. It can leave a ting of shadow in marble because it soaks in the sides of the tile. You don’t want that area to have sealer on it though so the grout can make connection with the tile. You can barely see the bleed, but it’s there. I personally love it because it adds even more depth to the marble. Here is my slate floor in a light medium gray epoxy grout. It looks almost white in contrast to the black. That’s the trick to the eye. This floor is worn hard. Farmer husbands bathroom with bad shoes. I don’t fuss with this floor except may be once or twice a year, lol. And it’s not hard. I do know that there has been some slight staining near the sink where DH stands to wash up. But it’s slight. The last time I mopped this floor was several months ago. I just sweep it. It could use another mopping I see. The right half never gets walked on, the left is the main walking path into the room. I can see a slight darling. This shower shown below, with porcelain tile, has a narrow grout line. It is a very light epoxy where I combined 2 colors to get a slight off white. No mildew or mold accumulates because it gets wiped down after the showers are done for the day by the last user. Usually it’s just me. I have not washed the walls except 2 times early on 5 years ago, because I thought I should. It is a waste of time because of the daily wipe down with a large microfiber towel. I do spend time with the shower door sweeps from time to time because they will get mildewy. The floor is a cast iron shower pan and I do clean that as typical for cast iron, but because I’m usually the only one using it, that’s not often....See MoreRange help -smoothtop vs induction - convection vs standard
Comments (45)I'm thinking some people are calling 'sliders' and digital heat selections the same thing - and they are not. My Bosch, which appears to be the same as all newer Bosch's, like cpartist's, has one area in the front to make digital selections. You lay your finger gently on the ON/Off (which lights up the settings in a low red), then put your finger on the hob you want (which then lights up a brighter red). The 'slider' is a selection of 9 heat levels, with half levels between those, and it takes just putting your finger on the one you desire. No sliding of the finger. Some inductions require the actual sliding of your finger. The newer Bosch does not. There is also Speed Boost, Keep Warm, and other options. I find it as quick and easy to place my finger on these as I did using the knobs. To turn off, you simply remove the pan. Or if you need to leave the pan on, you place your finger on the On/Off. If you need to wipe up a spill and you think it might take a moment or two longer than normal, there is a Panel Lock selection which you press. This freezes all settings from changing for a short period of time. A low 'ding' tells you when the Panel Lock goes off. FWIW, I do move my pans on my induction, but I also put something under them if I intend to do this. The Bosch's do give you more time to remove a pan temporarily without turning the hob off. And on mine, it will often turn itself back on if I've not taken it away for very long. Additionally, when removing a pan, each hob on the digital readout immediately has an H, for 'still hot', and a moment later to it changes to 'h' (lower case) for 'hot but you can touch' : )...See MoreMDLN
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