Our mechanical (HVAC) contractor installs all our kitchen vent hoods and our electrician wires them up. You need to verify that your installation complies with the current building code in your area. If you have a larger capacity range hood, you may be required to install a fresh air make-up system.

Hvac is approprate,however your job often falls under a sub catagory since it is sheet metal. Unless you already have other hvac work, I would skip the hvac company and go straight to the metal duct man. That trade does very little advertising so to find the right person,look in yellow pages for sheet metal shops who custom build transitions and plenum boxes for hvac contractors. Commercial hood vent retailers also use specialized installers.

I've got some other work for my HVAC guy that is unrelated to this project. He loves to do sheet metal work. I get him in loop.

My community doesn't require MAU. I checked that one already.

Thanks for the help.

I'm considering this issue for my future kitchen reno. I just had HVAC people here for work (new furnace, ducting, etc.) but am not near my kitchen reno yet, still finalizing plans. I'd rather not call them back out here for this (pricey) since I'll have other tradespeople here. I thought since I was going to have a plumber for extending a gas line, that he would do venting too. Not sure why I assumed that. Can a plumber do the venting?

Contractor laws vary from state to state. You'll need to ask your plumber if his license allows him to vent appliances in your state.

Good news, we opened the drywall and the pipe DOES vent to the roof. The rag placed on top just made it look like it didn't. Yea! Problem solved.

Thanks Charles Ross Homes.

Good news homechef, one less expense!

It gets even better. The guy doing the tear out advised me earlier this week that he thought the old drywall material might contain asbestos. Oh! CRAP!

No worries, had a licensed asbestos contractor send a sample to the lab. Waiting, waiting, waiting.

Good news, test report comes back negative. Full speed ahead. Whew! Dodged a bullet.

Oh goodness my stomach would be in knots, I feel so happy for you. What a huge relief.

Two additional questions:

We have removed all of the drywall in the kitchen. The kitchen electrical plan is very different from the current wiring. The current wiring in the kitchen is only 10 years old and has GFI outlets where necessary. We plan on rewiring the entire kitchen area.

The wiring plan already had GFI's indicated. When I took the plans down to the City for the building permit, they noted in red ink dots on the plans that GFI's would be required. Now, this will be a matter for my electrician to address. Educate me. I thought as long as there was a GFI located in a wiring series, or the outlet was eight feet from the water source, this would satisfy requirements. Reading the plans, it looks to me that they are wanting a GFI switch on every outlet in the entire kitchen, regardless of how the series is wired or distance to water source. Has something changed? Or, is this a case of my City being a pain in the butt?

Second question: They indicated that they wanted a carbon monoxide detector and a smoke detector in the area. I already have a hard-wired heat detector. Do these detectors have to be hard-wired to the house or battery operated? Anybody know.

I realize these may be questions that I should ask the City inspector, but it's the weekend. I thought someone might know.

In new construction, smoke detectors are required to be hardwired with battery backup AND interconnected to every other detector in every bedroom, every level, and outside every bedroom, etc. In an old house without detectors, it is permissible to stick up battery only detectors. With the extent of work you are doing, you will need to put in hardwired. The extent to what you may have to interconnect them to other required detectors on other floors may be up to the AHJ.

Nice! I just learned about rock wool this week. Was it a huge ( like double ?) cost difference compared to regular?

Three times more expensive. It is a special application insulation. It is fire retardant and provides superior sound deadening. If you had a home theater, this would do the trick. I found it at Home Depot. They had it hidden. You have to hunt for it.

Ouch! I'd love to do it between my upper and lower level but I highly doubt I can eek that out of my budget. I'll take a look though. Thanks!