Saltcedar & Bahia, WOW! I'm sure you hear this all the time but it bears repeating, "You're amazing!" I've been searching the web since I read your posts and, after viewing many photos, also think the first one is Adenium. Bahia, it's on our sunporch which stays around 62°F during the winter. When it warms up, I'll give it some much needed TLC. I believe that I read about using orchid fertilizer for these. Now that I know you both think the second plant is a Bromeliad, I know what to do. Can you believe it stayed outside most of the winter on a covered patio? I have a pot with 4 Bromeliads in it but their leaves don't have those little spikes. I will put it outside when it warms up and watch it grow. Bromes seem to love the humidity here. You can't imagine how excited I was that both of you think the third one is Kalanchoe. I just love those. Bahia, after some googling, I believe you nailed it with Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. It's been outside all winter on the front porch. Honestly, I can't believe it survived, much less, about to bloom. Now that I know what it is, I'll repot it once it blooms. Can't wait to see what color it will be. Saltcedar & Bahia, again, THANK YOU, THANK YOU & THANK YOU!!! It's so nice of you to take the time to share your knowledge with a newbie trying to learn. Bon

Sometimes the best thing to do is consider the problem idiopathic and simply turn to making sure you have the basics covered. You need first, a good soil that offers at least the opportunity for good root health, favorable light levels and temperature range, and a sound nutritional supplementation program. Fortunately for you and your plant, it's the perfect time of year (if you live in the northern hemisphere) to formulate a plan that should turn your plant around and prepare to initiate it. If you get the basics covered and cultural conditions favorable enough that the plant is growing in its 'sweet spot' instead of at the limits of what it was programmed to tolerate, you'll be golden. I'm not offering more because I'm counting on the fact you'll have interest in learning how to provide that sweet spot and will start asking questions. If you're not that interested, I hope you fare well and all your efforts lead to rewards. Al

I know this is long, Heidi, but I've got personal experience with your situation. To be brief, I'm confident that this tree is not even close to death's door, and would be much better served by fixing the causes of its decline now so it can green up and be much healthier to deal with the stress of repotting next summer. In particular, your ficus was thriving until three months ago, and we know that the decline was caused by low light and poor watering, which means that fixing the root congestion and soil aren't an emergency. To be clear, gardengal is probably right that you could repot now without killing the tree, but because it would be easy to get it green again by correcting the biggest problems now, you would be best off waiting until summer to do major root work and put it in a great growing medium. Then you will be rewarded with a burst of new growth, and you'll soon be pinching growing tips and pruning to control its enthusiastic growth and tell it to fill in all those gaps left by dropped leaves. My experience: I have two smaller roughly five year old ficuses that were completely rootbound and were stuck in a dim corner. I often forgot about watering until leaves started yellowing and dropping, and the I'd fill their tall plastic 'saucers' and left the water there until they stopped soaking it up. In other words, I drowned the roots every time I watered, and maximized the amount of deadly mineral deposits in the soil. Aside from feeble attempts to maintain a few leaves, they had almost stopped growing entirely because their depleted energy reserves made them more vulnerable to attack and only allowed them to put our a few leaves at a time, and most of the buds and leaves that appeared were killed by spider mites. But these are tough plants, so they clung to life for about three years before I finally cared enough to search for answers and found these forums. I immediately started treating the mite infestation, thoroughly flushed the pots (I swear I could hear them sigh with relief), fertilized with a weak solution of Foliage Pro, which has a great ratio of basic nutrients plus all the micronutrients plants need, moved it in front of my best window, which only provides mediocre light, and added bright white (not soft white) 5000k 100W led and cfl bulbs in clamp-on fixtures. Two months later, each branch has about half a dozen new leaves, including some emerging near the stem (a sign that the tree is getting better). It's wonderful to see them getting so green, and I'm already reading up on how to prune them when they get growing again. So Heidi, if I were in your place, I'd start by checking the leaves for spider mites with a bright light and a magnifying glass (they're tiny red dots on the leaves, and you may see little bits of webs on the leaves our branches). Ask about treatment if you find any. Then I'd flush the pot (details below), fertilize with a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer (miracle gro general purpose granules are easy to find and the right ratio), move it to the best window I had, and put two 100 or brighter led or cfl bulbs in it for 12 hours a day, using a timer. From then on, check soil moisture by pushing a sharpened 3/8" dowel all the way through to the bottom of the pot, and DO NOT WATER until the dowel comes out completely clean and dry (at that point there's still a lot of water inside the soil particles). When that happens, water until about 15% of the water exits the drain holes, let it drain, and then either tilt the pot at 45 degrees for 15-30 minutes after watering to remove excess water, or insert a wick into a drain hole and raise the pot up so the wick won't come in contact with the drained water. You can wait until the surface of the soil is dry to start checking the soil moisture, but after that you should check daily until you have a feel for how long it takes for the poor to dry up. About flushing: flush with lukewarm water, using about ten times the pot's capacity, then give it a weak solution of fertilizer. Use R/O (reverse osmosis) water if possible; water from supermarket water machines are usually $.39 per gallon, and that little pot will maybe need two or three gallons to do the job. My water is hard, so I used R/O water to flush, and because my tap water is hard I use water from my cheap faucet-mounted filter for regular watering. And the reason midsummer is the best time to do something stressful is that 1) ample summer sunlight generates much more energy from the leaves than even a lot of winter sunlight can provide, and 2) the plant is programmed to put energy into new growth in summer, whereas in winter it wants to store it for use in the spring. From several people's experience, including Al (talks), who knows whereof he speaks, if you take two healthy plants and repot one now and one next June, the second will be in better shape next fall than the one you repotted a year earlier. Sorry for my rambling post, and I hope it helps at least a little.

Hard to tell from here. Two months is plenty of time for a plant to get used to a new environment, so I agree that that's not a factor here :) I'd check for pests, and take a look at the roots. It could be rootbound, which can prevent the roots from taking in enough water. You also could have watered it too soon after its last watering (overwatering = root rot), which is one of the quickest ways to kill a pothos. See if there's any brown/black or mushiness on the roots and let us know what you find! Proper care for a pothos: Soil/Pot: WELL-DRAINING SOIL, you do not want a soil that retains water. Normal potting mix will not work for this plant. Mix in about 50% perlite or pumice if your soil doesn't drain well enough. Must have drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Watering: Check soil with your finger, or insert a wooden dowel into the soil. Wet soil will stick to the dowel and come out moist, dry soil won't. Water thoroughly (until water comes out of the drainage holes) when the soil is mostly dry. Light: Bright, indirect light for best growth/color. Can tolerate low light.