Dying growth tips on Schefflera plant

8 years ago

last modified: 8 years ago

I am new here. I searched everywhere to try and identify this problem. Normally I have the ability to nurse plants back to health which is how I get my plants. But this Schefflera plant I found sitting on a curb a few months ago started growing well, then this happened. The new leaves that would appear would dry up and fall off before they even reached the size of a pinhead. I thought it needed fertilizer, so I applied some miracle grow the next watering round. New growth appeared a week after and didn't dry up and produced a total of two leaf sets until the same thing happened again. The leaves would bud and then die before they matured. I created an account here in desperation to save this plant.

Featured Answer

Dave

8 years ago

last modified: 8 years ago

I've had spider mites before with no visible webs.

Spray the leaves (top and bottom) and stems with a mixture of 50/50 water and 70% isopropyl alcohol. May take a couple applications, but that should rid them.

If the day time temps are above 60°, you may also want to hose it off outside.

I'm fairly certain the spider mites spread from your impatiens to the Schefflera.

the reason you're losing young foliage is because spider mites seem to be attracted to fresh growth over old growth.

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Comments (8)

Dave
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Have you checked for pests? Look thoroughly for anything tiny, especially on the underside of the leaves.

My Ficus benjamina has done the same thing before. Dropping young leaves before they mature. Turned out to be pest related. Took care of them, and that took care of the issue.
User
8 years ago
I had the same issue on my newer schefflera, so I looked with flashlight and magnifying glass. Sure enough, spider mites. It was early on, so I treated and it seems fine.
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Jake Penny II
Original Author
8 years ago
There were spider mites on my impatiens that I had behind it. The impatien plants leaves dried up like the schefflera. Although those were taken care of. But unlike the impatiens there are no visible webs underneath the leaves of the Schefflera.
jamilalshaw26
8 years ago
I'd treat it for spider mites and move it away from your other plants asap. And clean the area around the plats thoroughly as well.
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
The leaf that is facing backwards looks kind of funky and unhappy too.

Mine got SM's inside this past winter too. Back outside for a while now, they are gone. An occasional shower of the foliage helped stop them from doing much damage. Incidentally, I did just remove the growth tips manually on purpose, as I do periodically, so it stays more compact and bushy.
Dave
8 years ago
Putting your plants outside really solves a lot of issues.

I always battle some sort of infestation during the winter. Usually spider mites. I don't usually ever win, but I keep them from doing a lot of damage and multiplying.

The alcohol / water mix works great. It's just a lot of work to be doing every other week during winter. Plus, it's really tough to breath in a closed room!

i also keep high humidity (70% RH) in the plant room, which also seems to help keep numbers down.

this fall, when I bring the plants back in, they're all getting multiple thorough sprays of Bayer 3 in 1 insect disease and mite control.

I have way too many plants in close proximity that when one has a pest, they all have a pest. I have no room to segragte. If I found one fully infested, it would be thrown out to protect the rest and not risk it. Unless it was my large ficus benjamina, then it would be saved :)
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Sometimes the best thing to do is consider the problem idiopathic and simply turn to making sure you have the basics covered. You need first, a good soil that offers at least the opportunity for good root health, favorable light levels and temperature range, and a sound nutritional supplementation program. Fortunately for you and your plant, it's the perfect time of year (if you live in the northern hemisphere) to formulate a plan that should turn your plant around and prepare to initiate it. If you get the basics covered and cultural conditions favorable enough that the plant is growing in its 'sweet spot' instead of at the limits of what it was programmed to tolerate, you'll be golden. I'm not offering more because I'm counting on the fact you'll have interest in learning how to provide that sweet spot and will start asking questions. If you're not that interested, I hope you fare well and all your efforts lead to rewards.

Al