Would love some feedback on the schematic design of our home
Shane Sherman
9 years ago
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would love some feedback on these ideas...
Comments (8)My good friend had a rose garden right by the entry to her house. This was flat, but then the garden sloped down to the driveway, maybe kinda what you're describing. I always loved the entrance to her house when the roses were blooming, the great smell and beauty. But these were hybrid teas, a very formal looking rose. If I was doing a rose garden transitioning into a native prarie rock kind of thing I'd use the more informal type roses, like rugosas. I have a native wild rose, rosa virginiana in my yard, very pretty. One bad side to some of the natives and the rugosas is they only bloom in June and most don't rebloom. Some do though. I don't know the scientific name of these new "patio roses" that bloom all summer, but they are lovely. But no smell that I can tell for them. My folks have a big rugosa trimmed as a hedge plant at their front entrance, transitioning to a rock garden. The rugosa is fabulous for a couple of weeks, then is just ho hum as a ubiquitous shrub. I suggest posting your question on the rose forum, you might get some good advice on what mixes well with what. Those folks probably have gardents similar to the ones you describe, at least some of them. I agree with others too on the "winter bones" issue. There are lots of things that can give a yard winter interest, shrubs with berries that last (like rose hips!), interesting form or bark, rocks or driftwood with interesting shapes, colors and textures, dried seedheads, dried foliage, etc....See Morewould love some feedback on house plans
Comments (25)It can take a lot of time to learn about the choices available, and then make the choice. Then order, wait for delivery, sometimes wait for the installation. Right there is one reason for knowing what you want before the build begins -- if you want an item x in mocha, it's better to know in advance that it might take 3 months before it can be delivered. Unfortunately, even in the best of plans, there can be totally unforeseen delays from late delivery, unexpected weather, unavailable work crews, or even theft [which can take time to replace the stolen material]. But with pre-planning, at least the crew won't be sitting around waiting for you say which faucet you want. You will have last minute decisions in approving the color/size/cut of stone or brick should you be using those items, for the reason that samples are always approximations and you won't know what you get until you get it. However, stone/brick is just about the only category that has a last-minute decision built into it. The next reason for getting specific in advance is that it can be difficult at best and overwhelming at worst to make a lot of important decisions in a very short period of time. Unless one is already a professional designer /builder /carpenter /tiler /plumber /electrician / decorator /et cetera, one is going to have make choices and decisions about things we just have never even thought about! It's an exhausting process, and that's a major reason for stress for the builder. Another reason for making as many decisions as possible in advance is actually the simplest: budget. And there is no way to have a budget without knowing what numbers are in it, and what those numbers represent. Unless you have an endless supply of money, there will be a limit as to how much can be spent. A pre-computed budget lets you know that if you spent $30,000 on kitchen counters then you won't have $20,000 for lighting. It gives you a chance to determine which is most important to you -- waiting to the last minute decision might find the counters installed but leave only $1000 for lights when in real life you don't cook much and it is the lighting that's important. Keep in mind that every time the owner changes his/her mind *during* the build, it is money wasted. Cosmetic changes [such as finding the "blue" paint is really brown when on the wall] can usually be fixed at once and during the build. However, changing the placement of a window or door is in the same category as changing a ceiling height or where the staircase is located -- the structural integrity of the whole house can be affected, and changes from blueprint shouldn't be done without approval of a structural engineer (ahem: $ and time), and the change may require re-inspection to be sure codes are still being met (ahem: lost time -- and $ while the crews wait). And another page of the budget is simply that there is difference between what the average GC thinks you'll be satisfied with and what you actually are satisfied with, in terms of quality, uniqueness, and customizing. Sometimes the difference is even more -- I've seen kitchens put together from the local discount-mass produced store and I've seen kitchens where every detail from crown molding to toe-step was handmade by a craftsman. Not going to say that one is better than the other, but IMO the wallet-holder should know -in advance- that there really can be tens of thousands of dollars difference in the final bill. The same is true of almost every detail on a home: you can get mass-produced in all levels of quality as well as getting custom-made or handcrafted. But if you didn't get specific on the contract, the odds are pretty good that you will be getting the least expensive whatever. On this same page is simply that item A can be the same or very little difference from item B, except in the price tag. Many builders are going to use the less expensive because they have figured a set price which includes their [or the subs] labor -- and the cheaper item will give them a bit more profit. And the last thing is, if it isn't written in detail in the contact, you shouldn't expect to automatically get what *you* want. The builder must make a profit -- and that's fair. But there is flat-out no way to reasonably expect the builder to know what you want if you don't already know, and finding out during the build is the most expensive way to go -in terms of time and money and stress-building....See MoreWould love some "Kitchen in a narrow townhouse" layout feedback!
Comments (8)Am I correct in thinking that the pantry wall is where it is and the island extends farther out into the corridor so as to allow a relatively generous view down the length of the house to your windows across the back? I.e., the view from the front door would be over the island and the dining table to the end of the living room? If so, would you consider having the island crafted with the vertical surfaces of the two ends and the corridor side length running six inches or so above the countertop. [The photo shows this kind of arrangement to provide an eating area, but the whole surround could in fact be just a couple inches deep.] Then you could have all the plumbing -- the majestic Rachiele sink and the dishwasher -- in the island. This would allow you to have more space for small appliances between your fridge and your range, as well as more work area, on the outside wall. One thing I am not clear on is whether you plan to have have upper cabinets in the outside wall run or are going to primarily use the pantry for storage. If you have nine- or ten-foot ceilings, uppers to the top on the outside wall might look nice. If I am totally misreading your intent, never mind. I too live in a long narrow townhouse, but with the kitchen at the back where the dogleg narrows it to 11 feet. I love to see how people deal with the challenges of these spaces. Cheers....See MoreWould love feedback on our kitchen/office/pantry
Comments (8)Quick review.... Refrigerator & Sink... If you put a prep sink in the island facing either the range or the refrigerator you will have solved the problem of the ref being too far from the sink. It's actually pretty close to the range. Right now, your island is pretty much a "barrier island" b/w your sink and refrigerator...the prep sink also solves this problem. Wait...is that square in the island w/a dot in the middle a prep sink? If so, you've already solved your problem! But, I would move the prep sink to the range end of the island so it's accessible from both the range & refrigerator/prep zone. It also frees up the rest of your island for those big projects like baking, crafts, homework, gift wrapping, etc. That's a great size for an island, btw. BTW...a prep sink helps to separate the prep zone from the cleanup zone...always a plus, especially for multi-worker kitchens. Pantry... The pantry is too far away from the kitchen...plus I would not want to have to go through the office every time I needed to get something from the pantry. The pantry should either be in the kitchen (preferred) or just off it. In this case, the current office location would be a better location for the pantry. I recommend one of two things: (1) Switch the office & pantry and then open up the office from the room that's south of the current pantry. I don't know what that room is as the print on the second plan is illegible (at least to my older eyes!) (2) As you suggested, move the range up (I think that's what you meant) to make room for a door into the pantry. But first, let's crunch some #s: I think your kitchen is approx 18' wide. If so... 25.5" for sink cabinets + counters 38" for office doorway (30" door + 3.5" on each side of the door for trim + slight space b/w counter & trim) 36" for range 38" for pantry doorway 25.5" for refrigerator cabinets + counters ---------- 163" If the kitchen is 18' then...216" - 163" = 53" left for counter around the range. Leaving you 26.5" on each side...so 24" cabinet + 1.5" counter overhang + 1" b/w door trim & counters. That actually isn't a bad idea...24" is the minimum I recommend on each side of a range or cooktop for working room, emergency landing space, and safety margin b/w the doorways and the range. Yes, you lose some counter space, but not that much plus you have a large island that is much more useful anyway. It also eliminates the corner & gives you a straight run of cabinets...preferable in many people's eyes (I like both; I don't really have a preference...at least not in a kitchen with so much room already.) [Note: If your kitchen is less than 18' or maybe 17'8", then you might want to rethink either the second door idea or the size of the doorways...you could use 24" doors, but I prefer 30" doors whenever possible, especially for the office. You could put in a 24" door for the pantry & 30" for the office, but since symmetry is important to your DH you probably won't want to do that. Whatever you do, try to keep at least 24" b/w each doorway & the range.] Island... Do you plan for any seating at the island? I wouldn't advise it on the sink side...seaters would definitely be in the way! You could proabably have seating on the refrigerator side, but I would move the island north (toward the sink) at least 7" so the sink side aisle is 4'0" and the seat/refrigerator side aisle is 4'7". Seats on that side would also give your visitors a view out of what looks to be 8' of windows. If you do put seating on the refrigerator side, moving the prep sink to the end is even more important to maximize your seating capacity. You could also put a couple of seats on the DR end. Just remember these guidelines: 24" of space per person (so a 6' long island would accommodate 3 seats....2'/seat.) 15" of overhang/leg room for counter height seating. Microwave... Where do you plan to have the MW? I recommend on the refrigerator wall, especially as you don't want the pass/view through. Dishwasher... Think about moving the DW to the other side of the sink . When open, it could block the office doorway. I think I'd rather have the DW on the DR side. Pass/View Through... If you do keep the pass/view through, would you have seating on the non-kitchen side? Where is the extra light coming from there anyway? It actually doesn't look like it's a room...what I can see in the 1st pic says "Mech Rm" which, to me, means Mechanical Room...and I wouldn't want to look into that room! In the 2nd pic it looks like it looks out onto the stairs...??? Sorry, but that second pic is way too busy and pretty much impossible for me to read. HTH!...See MoreShane Sherman
9 years agoShane Sherman
9 years agoShane Sherman
9 years agolafdr
9 years ago
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