dan1888, You are the second one to recommend this. Do you currently use induction and had you switched from gas? Any particular manufacturers that you like for the induction cooktop and the combi oven and hood? There are so many out there.... Also which wall oven to pair the combi oven with? Thanks so much

To start with, this is enough off topic that you might not get as wide a range of answers and attention as you would if you posted a new thread with this question. Please understand that I am not telling you to go away; I'm only telling you that a new thread might get your clearer and better informed answers to your specific questions. Okay, that having been said, it seems to me that maybe you need to have oven temperature control and cycling explained so that we can rule out or rule in the possibility that the microprocessors have been toasted by the self-cleaning cycle. First thing is this: oven preheat signals are lies, pure and simple. They only measure the air temperature in the oven but what you need for even and proper baking is to fully preheat the cavity (oven walls, celing, floor, etc.) That takes longer than the "preheat." In most ovens (including those in GE Profile ranges) "fast preheating" is advertising hype and bragging rights, not reality. Here's how an oven works, electric ovens in particular. (I say all of this from having owned and used a GE Profiile DF range for a decade and something. If you already know this, then just take this as putting us all on the same page for discussion.) You turn the oven on and set the temperature dial/touchpad to say, 350F. With an electric oven, and some gas ovens, both the top (broiler) and bottom (baking) elements come on. (And, with some newer convection ovens, the rear "convection" element also may come on.) The air temperature climbs and the walls etc. also start to heat up. When the air temp hits 350F, the sensor says the oven is preheated. Except that it is not. Most of baking is actually done with ehat radiating from the walls fof the oven cavity, not the air termperature. (Mhyrvold's Modernist Cusine website and book explain this in great technical detail if you want the geeky details.) What actually happens is that the bottom and top burners continue running until the actual air temp climbs a lot. In your case, it apparently climbs another 50F. Then (hopefully) it shuts off. Trouble is, if you put your baked goods into the oven when the preheat signal goes off, the top burner is still hot and likely is still operating. At this point, you might as well put your pie, your roast, your whatever under the broiler. The top will burn. OTOH, if you wait a few more minutes after the air temp hits the programmed max and the burners shut off. The air temp starts to fall, Your oven cavity's walls are picking up heat and catching up with the air temp but are not there yet. Another four or five minutes -- maybe ten with some ovens -- and the air temp falls to 325F or even 300F. One or more burners come on again. And, once again, the temp goes above your set point. It might go 50F above or it might go a bit less this time. My vintage 2000 GE Profile DF would go 50F above and then drop 50 below, then go 40 above, then cool to 40 below, then go 30F above and below. As best I could tell, the top element was used only in the initial run up but your newer stove may do this a bit differently. It would cycle maybe 25F above and below using only the bottom and convection heating elements, After about 30 minutes, it would reach a sort of equlibrium and the temperature would average around the set-point. Basically, most ovens take 20 to 30 minutes to actually stabliize at a baking temprerature. Now, if your oven is now running 50F above the set point, but not otherwise failing to work, it is possible that the observed symptom would have been the result of damage caused by the self-cleaning cycle but not probable. My experience is that when something goes wrong from overheating during or as a result of a self-cleaning cycle, the failure is typically catstrophic. Such as, the oven stops working altogether. To me, a more likely and simpler culprit is that the oven calibration has drifted. Is the oven running consistently 50F over the set point after a 20 to 30 preheat? If the oven is consistently too hot (after giving it at least half an hour to properly preheat), then I would look at the use and care guide in the section on adjusting the oven termperature settings. Hope this helps get your started o sorting out the problem. This post was edited by JWVideo on Mon, Feb 10, 14 at 13:12

I guess because a) I want to keep the kitchen slick and simple - I do not use an oven at all and I do not want it there just to clutter up things and it not being used. I;ll probably stay here for another decade and even if I don't, dont really care about resale value of the property over a small thing like this b) I was planning to just cover up the whole bottom with a simple panel which hopefully wouldn't cost too much c) I don't wanna spend out of money pocket for a slide-in induction oven/range if I don;t use it. I just want the cooktop.

That's an overstatement. People with pacemakers need to confirm with their physicians that their pacemakers won't be affected. There was a study published in Europe that a certain kind of pacemaker might potentially be of concern. I've never heard of problems with other implants, but I suppose if you have a steel rod in your arm it might also be something to be concerned about. The magnetic field is designed to operate within about a quarter inch of the surface and dissipate from there. There are also pot detectors which keep the inductors from turning on without an iron/steel pan to interact with. Most also require a minimum diameter. What's generally said is that you'd have to lie down on the pan to have a problem. That may be overly flip, but the warnings are to caution people to consider their implants and check them out with their doctors. I've never heard of someone actually having an incident with one.