I want to second what Gary said about company "attitude" and about reminding Elux that a lot of folks are watching your posts, some that may be considering the Elux Induction Range. I've linked to what appears to be Electrolux's book of error codes. It does not mention the range but I'm guessing that they use the same codes range as the induction cooktops. Error Code 15 is a "key sensor error" --- what Gary suspects is a keypad problem --- but it might be a loose cable or might be a bad board. Error code 35 apparently may signify either a problem with the power cord or a failed relay board in the stove. Suggests to me you also might want to check the power cord and outlet (you mentioned having had a flood and maybe you want to rule out something in the outlet being loose or corroded.) I sympathize on using that butane burner. Might want to consider getting one the portable induction units like the Max Burton (available for around $100) and save the butane for use during power outages or camping. Beyond all that, I'm not clear what your budget for a stopgap/alternative is. Are you maybe considering a used electric stove and looking for suggestions on brands/ previous models to look for or avoid? Or, are you asking if there are any sub $1k electric slide-ins out there. (Yes, but they are all coil-burners units, which might not be what you wanted to hear.) Here is a link that might be useful: Elux error code book

A 10" round pot over two 7" induction elements isn't likely to work well, and likely won't hit both pot sensors as well, so literally wouldn't work. Check the manual for whether you can bridge the elements with a double griddle. I'm guessing that you probably can. Also, make sure that each element has at least 17 power settings (1-9 with half steps). I've heard that some ranges only have 10, and that's not sufficient for a good cooking experience. Even more important than size is power output, and also power sharing since you're talking multiple pots. Make sure the outputs will work for you. A great big pot will work on a smaller element, but it'll have a hot spot. If you have thin enamelled steel, or carbon steel (which is usually only found on shallower pans), you're more likely to get rapid response. Next would be a high quality designed for induction clad steel. Are all of your big pots good on induction? You might have to invest in some new ones anyway. I LOVE my 11" element. My cooktop is 24" wide with the 11" double ring, a medium sized one and a small one. The only time that's not big enough is when I have a couple dozen guests and the chicken soup in one stock pot with the matzah balls in another, and I have one on the 15" gas cooktop. For spaghetti, for the family, a three quart pot on my medium induction element is fine. I have a few pots that I make spaghetti sauce in, but they're all the size of the ring at the base. I'm more likely to package it up for the freezer, and change to a smaller pot to heat the portion for dinner, however, so I don't have to deal with more work later. So... I think you'd be fine simmering your sauce in your big pot, and perhaps using an 8" steel pot for the pasta. Or something like that. Compared to the price of a new range, a couple hundred dollars for a few necessary cookware additions doesn't sound tragic. For boiling pasta, however, if you can get your current pot on the element without banging into your sauce pot, even if it's a little off center, it should be fine. It's not like you're cooking something on the pot where hot spots really matter. You're just heating the water that's cooking the pasta. Every new piece of cooking equipment, whether it's a cooktop or oven or small appliance, has a learning period. Each has its quirks. Adapting to those is necessary. Relearning your timing is essential. It's not hard if you don't resist it. Just be mindful and notice how things are working for the first month or two. It'll turn out fine in the end.

I'm not sure I followed the explanation you received from the GE rep. Or maybe the rep was giving you an engineer's explanation of "Pulse Width Modulation." PWM is a way of using power in bursts to effect energy transfer equivalent to turning a traditional electric or gas burner up or down. It is kind of like averaging. You cycle the power on and off slowly to simulate lower energy transfer. Cycle it faster and with longer pulses, you get more energy transfer and the effect of turning up the power or gas on a traditional hob. That's how most microwaves work, btw. What we're talking about is how much energy gets transmitted into the cooking vessel. The PWM is just a way of governing the amount of energy being applied to the pan. The net effect is the same as turning power or gas up and down. Maybe somebody else can better explain the theory of the what the rep suggested? On your question about cookware to buy, let me suggest try a new post with links to the cooking and cookware forums here where you can get more direct responses. Also, rather than have me give a cookware 101 lecture (pontificate?), I suggest you try a site like Serious Eats which already has a pretty good discussion of "essential cookware." (Click on the highlght to go to the article.) I think Cook's Illustrated also may have one if you have access to their site. My responses to your specific cookware questions are: 1. I certainly would and do mix pan from different brands and lines. Most folks here would advise you to do so. Nothing necessarily wrong with buying sets, of course, but you may do better by picking and choosing. 2. I have only two Demeyere pans, both labeled as "Demeyere 7 TripleInduc.." Bought them on clearance from the Zwilling website you noted above for the plancha. One of my pans is a ten-inch frying pan. The other is the 21"x13" big brother of the plancha/teppanyaki/griddle you linked above. 3. I have both a roasting pan and a dutch oven. Frankly, if I had neither one, I'd look at the recommendations on Cook's Illustrated and Serious eats for decent dutch ovens and then I would also get a good , sturdy half sheet pan (it is a baking sheet with a short raised rim around the outside.) I'd use the baking sheet to impersonate a roasting pan by plonking in a cooling rack and setting the food on that. Also, if you get that plancha/griddle/teppanyaki, it can do a bang-up job as a shallow roasting pan, too. These days, I use my big roasting pan mainly for very big and juicy birds. YMMV. 4. Re "straight-sided" versus slope-side skillets, there is no "must" for induction. Get the slope-sided pan that you think you will like using better.

Vocabulary can be a slippery thing. From your photo and your budget, I'm guessing that you aren't actually thinking about a "stove" or "range" -- at least, not as those terms are usually understood around here. Am I correct that what you want to do is yank out that radiant electric downdraft cooktop (Jenn Aire?) and drop in a 36" wide induction cooktop while adding an overhead vent? Also, am I correct that budget of $3k has to cover both the cooktop and vent hood? If so, I have some suggestions for things to consider. First, cooktop cutouts sizes vary between model years and brands. You might be able to open up the cabinets and drawers in the island and find a way to measure the dimensions of the existing cut-out from below. Or, take your cooktop's model number and do an online search for a pdf of the install instructions which will have the dimensions of the cut-out. Then, check those specs against the specs for the induction cooktops you might be considering. Depending on the particular induction cooktop you are considering, it might: (a) fit in the existing cut-out; (b) you might have to trim one or more sides to enlarge the cut-out (which means budgeting for the work unless your countertop is something other than the stone it looks like in your photo and you have the diy skills and tools to make the necessary cuts); or (c) the existing cut-out may be too big for some induction cooktops, in which case you have to figure out how to (and budget for) build up the rim support under the cooktop. Second, I'm recalling that some of the older Jenn Aire radiant electric downdraft cooktops were actually 42" wide. Is yours one one of those? If so, it rather narrows your choices of induction cooktops. All of the 42" induction cooktops --- at least all of the ones that I can think of off the top of my head --- are from expensive brands like Miele which will eat up most of your $3k budget. If your present cooktop is a 42" model, you might consider going with a 36" model and have some sort of cosmetic and structural cover fabricated (maybe in stainless steel) to cover the gaps and provide support. I'm guessing a new countertop for the island is not in the budget. Third, Green Designs mentioned a possible need for an electrical upgrade. Here's what that means if you did not understand the comment. Some 36" induction cooktops can run on a 40 amp circuit but many require a 50 amp circuit. Not so many years ago, 36" radiant electric cooktops might only have been wired to a 40 amp circuit. Seeing the existing downdraft radiant cooktop makes me suspect that the existing electrical circuit probably is a 50 amp circuit. Only you or an electrician on site can determine whether that is the case. You need to verify that you already you have 50 amp service (checking the circuit breaker may be the fastest way to do that). Otherwise, there are not many 36" induction cooktops that now are rated to run on a 40 amp circuit. Frigidaire comes to mind as one, and worth considering in light of your target budget. Fourth, the vent hood is going to be more expensive. As Jaykaym says, the Home Depot unit is out of consideration because it is a wall hung model. The linked Cavaliere is an island hood but it is only 30" wide, which is too narrow for your cooktop. At least, look at the 36" wide model. The basic problem you have to solve with any hood is that steam and etc. spread out as they rise. Think of the plume of cooking effluent as an upside down cone that gets wider as it rises. You want the hood wide enough to capture as much of the plume as possible. so that the fan grabs as much of the plume as it can. Too small a hood and, no matter how powerful the fan, you will be raising the plume up higher and spreading some of it further around the kitchen. Lots of very detailed advice here on fan and hood sizing over the years (particularly from Kaseki, our resident vent guru) if you care to search for details. The rule of thumb around here for decades has been that you want the hood to be at least three inches wider in each dimension than the cooktop it hangs above. With a 36" wide cooktop, the standard advice is to look for a 42" wide hood. You can go narrower with a wall mounted hood because the backwalls and cabinets to help confine the rising plume. No such aids for an over-island hood. That said, budget constrains your choices, which likely means looking at something for $100 more, such as the 36" version of the hood in your link. It will be better than nothing and, indeed, will be noticeably more effective than the existing downdraft unit. Be aware that running a 900 CFM fan into a 6" duct will be considerably noisier than better (but maybe less affordable) choices. Fifth, speaking of that 900 CFM fan, have you looked into make-up air (MUA)? Do you have any gas appliances (say, furnaces or water heaters) or fireplaces? Unless you have an adequate source of MUA for what your hood is sucking out of the house, running a strong vent fan can backdraft copious amounts of carbon monoxide into the living spaces. Also, more and more localities are adopting code provisions that require MUA for range hoods with fans rated to draw 400 cfm or above. Best check your local codes before anbody starts cutting holes in the ceiling and roof.