Another DIY'er here...my best advice...take your time, however much time it takes to make sure they are level (side-side, front-back, and across any openings like for the range) plumb and in plane with each other...it may take a lot more time than you think but taking the time now will save you bigger hassles later.

We put a 2 x 4 across, for the bottom of the wall cabinet to rest on, while installing. It helped so much, because I had to hold the cabinet while my husband screwed them up. The screw holes were covered up when I tiled the backsplash. Also mark where your studs are on the wall.

And for the upper cabinets...a ledger board installed at the height you want the cabinets is invaluable...those cabinets can get super heavy and having that ledger board to support the weight will help tremendously.

Invest in a good long level/straight edge, and or at least a laser level, they are invaluable.
Shims are your friends; I like the good old fashion cedar shingle type, or make my own "micro shims" out a softwood such as pine or poplar.

And as others have said, take your time, check and check again... Chris

Plastic shims, and be sure you know how to actually use them correctly. >

If you're putting them together, put the face frames down on the floor, front down. Put your doors in there and fit your hinges.
Then take the doors out and continue assembly.

It's far easier to fit your doors lying on the ground than trying to balance them on your knee, while standing on your countertop. Just sayin'

Oh - hanging my cabinets by myself has gotten a lot easier. Rather than trying to balance them on drywall buckets and shims, I picked up a $2.00, 36x18" wall cabinet at the resuse center.

I made certain my base cabinets were perfectly (not "good enough") level. I set that cabinet on my counter and set my uppers on it. Screw 'em in. Done.

No balancing, no fear of them falling off, onto me, knocking me off the counter, down onto the floor and no emergency buzzer around my neck, so they find me all dead and rotten under my cabinets. "Death by DIY," they'd declare. I digress.

Like CE, I use a box. Mine is built from ply, top bottom, and two short sides, braces across front and back to prevent racking but open enough I can get to the wall.
I make em short leaving room for shims and use a second loose piece of ply on top of box. Typical dims 13 x 24 x 17 high. If actual counter is not in place add 1/2" and use 3/4 ply for counter. Cabinet rests on that. Can then shim between the ply and box for plumb and level, then fit shims at wall, pin em with a 23 gauge then screw.
I like to do bases first, solve floor level problems and allows for template.

thanks everyone!
but jakuvall and CEFreeman I am not sure I understand what you mean about using a box or cabinet. Do you just use it for balance of the cabinet you are installing?

Also, I was surprised that it seems you both put the base cabinets in first. What is the advantage to putting in the base cabinets first? I thought it would be easier to do the uppers first so we don't have to reach over the base cabinets.

thanks again!

We installed our wall cabinets first for exactly the reason you mentioned...seems like it would be much more difficult working above the lowers and you risk damaging the lower cabinets by putting them in first...but I'm not an expert so I'll be watching for responses.

double post

This post was edited by dcward89 on Thu, Dec 11, 14 at 9:32

A ledger board works for the uppers, but we went with a lift:

If you're installing any full length items, like a pantry, be sure to get adequate muscle - they weigh a ton and are prone to amputating fingers.

I use the box to both support the wall cabinet and as a platform to level it in all directions before placing the permanent shims.

Base first, walls first is a topic like religion and politics. I was taught bases, about 2/3 of the cabinet installers I know do base the others walls.

Reasons.
If you are going to run into a problem it will be in the bases.
Easier to align walls to bases (meant to say talls) , allows faster time to template.
I can then use the box system which makes it far easier to get dead plumb and level, get shims placed properly in relation to screws and not over torque them. (important especially for inset). Lastly I'm short and typically installed solo, no way I could do that with a ledger.

I've never damaged a base cabinet but I do protect them. I've also never dropped a wall cabinet.

I also use a system of 3" ply strips. Place those along the back and edges of each cabinet. Shim and level those to a whisper above finished floor height. Pin them to the floor. Then bases are dropped in and screwed.
Have to carefully plan any exposed end cabinets.

While this works best when also putting in a new floor....
I find it so much faster and accurate that I will even cut down the sides of all the bases to have the height needed for the ply. Using a sled for a circular saw and a combination square I can cut ten an hour. It prevents having a land locked shim that needs adjustment. Very useful with really bad floor variation.

Alternative is cabs with no sub base and site build it instead.

This post was edited by jakuvall on Thu, Dec 11, 14 at 11:15

thanks everyone so much!! appreciate the helpful comments and suggestions...it really does help!!

i'll let you know how we fair this weekend...if we don't kill each other!! Ha!