Do people really light up every corner in new construction?
Fori
9 years ago
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gyr_falcon
9 years agoRelated Discussions
New construction: venting and make-up air for 48'' range
Comments (4)Wow! A rare case where the aesthetics part of the performance-aesthetics-economy: pick-any-two limitation is not a factor in hood selection. But first, given a sealed household, I would strongly recommend obtaining a furnace kit to use outside air. This will avoid the possibility of the MUA system not working perfectly and the hood causing negative house pressure and hence backdrafting of the combustion appliance. I know that such devices exist for Beckett burners, and would guess that there are adapters for other burners. As the OP correctly notes, a 200 cfm ERV is not going to cope with a 1200 cfm vent hood. (Actually, what would happen with a sealed house is that at full power, the hood would pull the cfm the ERV would let through into the now minus a couple of inches w.c. house pressure.) So MUA is essential, and in the mid-Atlantic region would be pretty uncomfortable in winter if unheated. Depending on one's tolerance for heat and humidity, cooling in summer might be optional or not. We are starting to get into the realm where performance-economy, pick any two is applicable. MUA can be roughly characterized as passive or active. By passive is meant no fan in the circuit. Active uses a booster fan to keep the house pressure stable. No-fan only works for simple ducting with a vent hood air flow controlled damper. (A recent post here provided some sources for these.) If a filter is used at 1200 cfm (or whatever flow actually could be pulled with all the doors and windows open, then the house pressure will drop. One can see on websites selling filter packs that the pressure drop at such flow rates is too large for combustion appliance safety, which require negative pressures not be greater than 0.03 to 0.06 inches depending on appliance type. Active is needed to overcome the filter restriction. It may be needed to overcome heating heat exchanger restriction and/or air conditioning heat exchanger (expander) restriction. The difficulty with active is balancing the MUA air flow rate against the variable hood flow rate such that the house pressure is near zero. This usually requires a control system of some sort, and can be a "project." What to do? What to do? Only one free-of-processing-controllers active MUA has occurred to me. In the simplest embodiment, the hood control is connected to two parallel wired identical fans, one in the hood exhaust path and one in the MUA path. Then the two will (try to) operate at nearly the same flow rate at every control setting, and one only needs to adjust the MUA duct restriction until it matches that of the hood path. More exactly, adjust the MUA path so that house pressure falls very little as the hood is turned on. Note that this doesn't account for bathroom fans, fireplaces, or other exhaust flows not due to the hood. In such cases, PID control of the MUA fan would be needed. In my case, due to a 1500 cfm hood, 1000 cfm over-oven vent, fireplace, and three bathroom fan household, I am building an active MUA that will use an axial blower in the 2000 cfm regime. It has to overcome the pressure loss of its intake vent, its filter, and its heat exchanger (which is hot water pumped from my oil burner). Control is via a Fuji PID controller operating from a BAPF differential pressure sensor. The motor power control is not yet selected, and a lot of sheet metal action is still needed, along with further attic revisions that I seem to have trouble getting to at the needed rate. I recommend the OP and/or his HVAC person read the "Kitchen Ventilation Systems Application & Design Guide" that may be found at Greenheck's web site. It periodically moves around, URL-wise, so a Google search by name may be fastest. Greenheck or one of its competitors may be able to provide what you need for considerably less agony than a do-it-yourself HVAC project would. kas...See MoreLighting Design for New Home Construction
Comments (3)For your lighting control system, it would be expensive but possible to make every fixture independant. Group the light fixtures as it makes sense. Each independant fixture or group will be wired to a remotely mounted dimmer or switch. Some systems have multiple dimmers and switches in a single device called a module. The systems can be programmed to operate as you suggest with group A, B etc., controlled by individual buttons or by current use of the room which is actually easier to deal with in large rooms with lots of zones of light to manage. Button 1 is for reading, 2 is for TV, 3 for movie, etc. A combination of these two button designs can be most effective. Wall washing (what you had) is a bit different than more intensly focused accent lighting which is what normally one thinks of when displaying paintings in a home. Narrow hallways full of small family photos could be a good use of wall washing. Gallerys that tend to change paintings often might flood an entire wall but some galleries move their more precise accent lighting at every show. Halogen is a popular lamp choice. For smaller fixtures and precise beam conrol use MR16 lamps. Par 30 lamps are lower cost per fixture. The size and placement of paintings would be helpful to know for whomever is laying out the lights. Step lights add more visual drama. I'm not convinced that they add any safety unless if in the riser they are in each one. Anything else is just for effect. If in the side wall then you have to know what fixture you are working with. It sounds like you are tackling the job of lighting designer with little experience and need to be good at it by morning. Good luck. No pressure there at all....See MoreHow to compete with new construction? (or do you?)
Comments (20)The new builds will be $229-249K... depending on sq footage. The smallest will be right around 1600 sq ft. We just met with a realtor... $200K should sell quickly/easily. Inventory is extremely low in our market and homes are only staying available for less than 30 days. He echoed what @saltidawg and @homechef59 said... our upgrades will be selling points over the new construction (he is familiar with the builder across the street). The only issue of concern... our local realtors who "run the market"... like to use tax value as their point for negotiations. Apparently it's easier than running comps when there aren't many/any comps. This realtor said he won't use tax value as the "value", that just hurts the seller by giving equity away. So, we will be listing in the next couple of days!...See MorePlumbing screw up in new construction
Comments (12)So I am going to disagree a bit. My main piece of advice - Don't assume that what you believe is true just because you believe it. Something isn't bad just because you think it is bad, and something isn't right just because you believe it is right. You are building a home, it is going to be a great home or a terrible home because of the knowledge and actions of professionals, and not because of what you believe. Many many years ago I had a plumbing license, I am not an expert in plumbing by any means, but from the time I was 13 years old, I spent summers and weekends working for my dad's plumbing company. There is not nearly enough information to answer your question in any meaningful way. Waste plumbing running horizontally sloped isn't a problem at all. I assure you that there are many spots that plumbing runs through a horizontal slope for stretches much much longer than 7 or 8 feet. Additionally, PVC running 8' through a wall is not necessarily going to harm anything in the wall at all. Nothing. The typical master bath today will have wall runs longer than 8', even through 2x4 walls. If you want to post a floorplan and describe where the pipes are and their diameter, I can give you more advice. Generally, putting a toilet or tub/shower outlet in the wrong place is a problem, while putting sinks in the wrong place is usually not a problem, putting the stack in the wrong place might be a problem and it might not be a problem at all. The plumber probably COULD have dug this up, fixed it in the ground, patched the slab and gotten on with it What you are describing may do more harm than good. Every plumber, who has been doing this for more than a few months, will have quickie sawed through a slab. Sawing through an uncured concrete slab isn't even a lot of work, so there is little reason to believe that either party were avoiding this if it was the best solution. Lots of plumbers don't like a lot couplings and joints in a concrete slab in 1.5" or 2" pipe. A clog in the slab is costly. As for the mistake. Mistakes get made in builds, it just happens. A good builder will protect the homeowner from the mistakes. However, he is not going to call you every time a mistake that is easily correctable gets made. In the scope of things this just isn't necessarily a very big mistake. With some more information I could give you an opinion. If you are that concerned pay a plumber to come look at the house and give his opinion or post actual pictures of the mistake and the floorplan....See MoreOKMoreh
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