I ended up posting my compeleted drapes in a separate thread which I will link below and may answer some of the recent questions above. brutuses: annz is correct. I bought mine at Calico Corners for $7 ea. Just simple white ones that I clipped into the last ring along with the end hook. princesssusan: I am no expert, but can just tell you what I ended up doing and observed by looking at other similar treatments at Calico Corners where I bought my custom ones for my LR/DR. I put a ring in each pleat plus one at either end. budge1: My drapes are from JCP, Supreme, pinch pleated drapes in Silver Sage. I just checked the website and I don't find the colors to be very accurate so if you have a Penneys nearby, I'd check there for the color. I picked them out in the store, but it was a catalog order. See: http://www2.jcpenney.com/jcp/ProductsHOM.aspx?DeptID=25437&CatID=28503&CatTyp=DEP&ItemTyp=G&GrpTyp=ENS&ItemID=130d3d2&ProdSeq=1&Cat=pinch+pleat&Dep=Window&PCat=Drapes&PCatID=28498&RefPage=ProductList&Sale=&ProdCount=17&RecPtr=&ShowMenu=&TTYP=&ShopBy=0amp;RefPageName=CategoryAll%252Easpx&RefCatID=28498&RefDeptID=25437&Page=1&CmCatId=25437:28498:28503 As for the sheers, they are called: Lisette Pinch-pleated sheers in soft gold. I think they may be discontinued now as I didn't see them when I checked the website, though saw this: http://www2.jcpenney.com/jcp/Products.aspx?ItemID=13aea97&ItemTyp=G&GrpTyp=SIZ&ShowMenu=T&ShopBy=0amp;SearchString=Lisette&RefPage=SearchDepartment.aspx&CmCatId=SearchResults&Search1Prod=True Again, I'd check with your local Penneys. Here is a link that might be useful: Completed drapes

I'm going to agree with annie. You're asking for a mess if you try to stuff those two into a cover. The cording will both show and be felt when someone sits on it, and given time, will wear on the velvet differently and leave a pattern of the cording. That stuff needs to come off. Personally I'd then lay the two foam covers together and draw around them as a pattern on paper, then cut the same shape from a high quality upholstry foam. Then wrap the foam in batting as noted above, and muslin slip. Then make your one cover removable if you wish. If you can't get the new foam, rewrap the existing foam instead. But I do think after time it will separate somewhat and again, ruin the look you're after by leaving a gap. You're working with a very very hard fabric, and trying high level techniques (cording with a quilted velvet). I am very confident with this stype of stuf, and the thought makes me want to curse in advance for you. I do recommend that you first make a muslin pattern before you try cutting the velvet. Velvet walks away from you when you sew it face to face so be sure you pin the heck out if it (use french silk pins). And as to the cording, don't even try if you don't have or won't pick up a cording foot for your machine (which you'll fall in love with). If I were making this, I'd first make the muslin pattern (hopefully you've figured that out in your discoveries) and then try to make it up using cheap cording with a cording foot and be sure you have your technique down. Then, if that comes out well, go ahead with the velvet, but remember, more pins verses less, and I like to use two with particularly slippery velvets. The pattern will be lost if you try to remove the velvet backing (or the quilted batting) and it would be a huge amount of work for something that won't even show. I'd find a nice contrasting fabric or a velvet that matches without batting. But again, personally...I'd not do the velvet cording because it's a pain in the kiester! I'd do it in silk dupioni in the same color which flows well with the velvet and is easy to sew.

Hi there, I just finished sheer voile panels (big ones) for my guest room. I set my machine at a medium sized stitch, and a narrow zig-zag and put boullion fringe on the leading edges and the bottom. I used my regular zig-zag foot and went gently and carefully down the lip edge of the fringe. I then reset for a straight, looser stitch and went down the fringe edge. I kept the fabric taut under the fringe and everything seemed to go well with no bunching or gathering. I DID however cut the selvage off the fabric and made a 1" hem on the outer sides of each panel. The hem at the bottom was 3". HTH...email me if you need more info, or if you think I can make this clearer. Use the normal format...I'm just trying to avoid spam: jbmusik at yahoo dot com

Hi sheesharee, Let me take these in order - Lining fabric is sold at any store that carries home dec fabric. It's usually white or off-white and comes 54" wide. I buy mine on eBay about 20 yards at at time, since I use quite a bit of it. It comes in all cotton, all poly and cotton/poly blends. Joann Fabric has many different linings. Pin your fabric ALL the way around. I use a pin about every 3". You can leave the opening for turning on the top, side or on the bottom. As noted above, if the openings you leave on the sides near the top are large enough, based on the type of curtain rod you are using, these openings may be large enough to use for turning the fabric. The opening that you leave for turning your fabric right side out must be left OPEN. You will choose where to leave your opening - I suggest the bottom or on a side. Wherever you leave it - stitch across the top of your valance using a half inch seam. Stitch across the bottom of it next. Now stitch each side, from top to bottom, using the seam allowance. Doing it in this order reduces the chance of puckering. BUT, you must also leave the openings near the top of each side that will become the openings for your rod pockets. If they are large enough, you do not need to leave another opening to turn the fabric. You can stick your hand in the rod pocket openings to turn it. No, if you do it correctly, the opening that you have left open, when you turn and press your valance, will be folded under by ironing. It will fold in itself as you iron. You simply need to cut the fusible tape to the length of that opening, place the tape inside on top of the folded fabric edge, and press it closed. It will look just the same as the stitched fabric above and below it. I suggest cutting off the selvages, which are the white parts with the writing, before you pin the fabric and lining together. This assures that you will not see that writing through the lining when you finish your valance. You will see in the 3rd paragraph above where I say that I use about 1 1/4 yards of fabric for the length of my valances. This extra fabric is needed for the folds that are created when you tie up the fabric. However, if you are making this for a short window, you can buy less. The center 'drop' on my finished valances after tying them up is generally 20" - 24", but there are folds in that, as you see above in the pic, or in the one below that shows it clearly. I'd always err on the side of it being too long, rather than too short. When it's short it looks skimpy and cheap, IMO. You can tie it up as high or as low as you want, but the folds add richness to the valance. Here is a link that might be useful: see lining fabric here on ebay