It's hard to say if their repairs were correct because I don't know what the real problem was. Let's say it's a wet room. There is a continuous waterproof membrane on the subfloor, both in the shower and outside the shower. Then a mud bed. Then tile. That's a case where the thinset and mud bed under the shower tile can wet, and the moisture in the shower mud bed can "plume out" under the shower partition wall and wet the mud and eventually the grout and tile on the bathroom floor. A "possible solution" without demoing the shower wall would be to remove a several inches of tile on the bathroom floor side of the saddle along the entire length of the glass partition wall. Dig out the mud to expose the membrane. I'd even undermine the saddle along its full length by digging back the mud about 1/2" back along the length of the saddle. I'd want the exposed membrane to be clean. If the vertical wall of mud under the saddle was coarse and rough, I'd then patch that vertical wall of mud under the saddle to make it smooth. I'd want the underside of the marble saddle to be clean. I'd then use a waterproofing membrane to tie the exposed floor membrane to the underside of the saddle. I don't know what type of membrane you have, but it would have to be compatible with the floor membrane. If you can use a paint-on membrane like Hydroban or RedGard, paint it on the floor membrane, on the smoothed vertical wall of mud under the saddle, and onto the bottom of the saddle. That will connect your floor membrane to the bottom of the saddle. Any moisture in the shower floor mud will now be contained within the shower footprint. Now pack new mud in the excavated area outside the shower and re-tile. It's not a perfect solution, it might not even be the right solution because that may not be how your shower is built. But it's an idea of how I would consider making repairs were I the one doing so. The problem I have with them patching the area around the door is: If it was not the door leaking and it is a capillary thing going on down below, depending on how they detailed the added membrane when they made the repair by the door, they might have simply masked the presence of the moisture down below. ie, the moisture is still there. And more moisture is being added every time you shower. But by adding waterproofing on top of the wet area, they might just be sealing moisture into the bed. So the marble by the door may appear drier because it's above the new waterproofing, but the mud below the new waterproofing is still wet. If the area in front of the door where they made the repairs dries and the area to the left of the door where they made no repairs remains wet, that's an indication that what they did was a band-aid cover-up and not a true repair. Again, there could be several possible causes and several possible repairs because there are several ways to build a shower. I'm guessing and supposing. I'll be gone for a few days, good luck with it all!

Thanks for the reponses. Cavimum, I love AJ for research, its my go to site because with a small house there are always size limitations on everything I buy and they have the best information! Alex, I love knowing where things are from so I do appreciate the link. Mystery I am so glad you posted! The Bosch is my first choice but the salesman at the last place I visited was trying to convince me the Whirlpool was a better option for ease of service. I have no real objection to either I just thought the Whirlpool was not attractive (top is black and body is silver, WHY?!) and you walk right into the dishwasher when you come into my kitchen. My beautiful but oh so leaky GE was completely flat in front, buttons were not visible. The other choice was an Asko (no delay which I need) and someone told me their wife and son each hated theirs! So I thought I was set on the Bosch until the last store. Did you have any trouble installing? The Whirlpool salesman said something about that they sometimes have to charge extra for installing the Europeon brands. I have an old house so always get leery. I am ok with the long cycles (how can something be MORE energy efficient if it takes longer to do something?!) and the plastic thing, thanks for warning me, it would have annoyed me if I did not know in advance I try never to run dishwashers or dryers at night. Years ago, in the middle of the day my parents had flames come shooting out of their American made (Circa 1980) dishwasher. It was about 14 years old and they replaced it with the same brand! So I guess it did not bother them too much, ever since then I try not to run that stuff at night

From kitchen floor to bottom of counter is 33 1/8". But, the floor inside the cavity is lower. See, because the counters are lower, the only way to put a standard dishwasher in was to lower the floor inside the cavity, install the DW, then the countertops. (It was built before The ADA and ADA-compliant DWs) To be honest, no one is sure what the floor looks like underneath, if the concrete floor was poured lower, or if it was hacked out. (There is a basement below.) I think to replace without removing the countertop, the installer would have to slide it in, then adjust the feet? I don't know how that would happen. After installation, yes, the biggest thing would be getting used to a new one.

FYI while Miele describes PG8080i as 'integrated', they describe the ProfiLine PG 8083 SCVi as 'fully-integrated'. ( I guess that's the control panel vs no visible panel.) Seems that 8083 is not listed as ADA compliant, though 8080i is. A bit of a tangent, but wondering what the water usage on the PG8080i is?When I went to a Miele dealer to look, a salesperson steered away from professional line even though they had one on the floor (though I think it was actually professional 'for the home' PG 8083 SCVi they had on the floor), saying they were quick but much more water usage, and louder. But the loudness is 48 dB (well 49 in USA lol, apparently the Canadian version is quieter??!, see Canadian spec sheet vs US), so I"m not really taking her word as gospel on any other points, as I don't think 48 dB is 'much louder" than my current Classic ((46 dB)? My partner was very put off by the idea of high water usage and won't endorse going with the 8080i in new build if this is truly the case, anyone know about water usage? Spec sheets don't show water usage to my knowledge.