Should we overmount or undermount prep sink on Maple island top?
9 years ago
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Comments (11)
- 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
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wood counter w/ undermount sink?
Comments (9)This is an old pic with the sink not mounted. But, it has been 3.5 yrs with just one minor issue. The hole drilled for the Insinkerator air-switch did not have a proper bead of silicone run around the switch bezel once it was put in. After about 3 yrs, I noticed the semi-gloss marine finish was getting lighter in color (indicating water seepage?). Some very light sanding, a dab of finish around it, let it dry and the reseal w/ silicon did the trick. Just make sure there is a good bead of silicon around all edges where the wood meets the sink or the taps. Also, ensure that your wood finish is applied inside the holes after they are drilled for the taps. This also means that you have to plan with the plumber to let it dry first. Finally, make sure that you don's just toss in large pots into the sink and let the handles slam down against the wood lip as they drop in (not an issue with only "responsible" adults in the house!). (the wood is pecan)...See MoreUndermount sink w/wood countertops?
Comments (39)We are getting ready to refinish our wood counter tops. They are over 10 years old and received no maintenance during that time. Except for heavy wear areas (i.e., the outer edge in front of the sink), all the damage is from water: dish drainers to the sides of the sink, the path between the sink and the dishwasher, around the faucet (which has a very small leak), and where the counter meets the sink. The latter two have mildew rot. Notice that the sink is smaller than the cutout in the counter, leaving a lip for water to accumulate (the hole was cut using a template included with the sink - they probably use larger holes today). I would agree with riverspots and andersons: had we given it regular maintenance (recaulk, recoat, and replace faucet gaskets every 2-3 years) it is possible that it wouldn't need to be refinished now. Note that, to maintain the appearance, you have to recoat BEFORE the finish cracks. If afterwards, you'll have to settle with the visible defect or refinish the entire counter. The butcher block counter was original finished with an indoor polyurethane. This time we will use a marine coating. And we'll find a dish drainer that doesn't get any water at all on the counter. Also, if your installing wood, try to avoid faucets that mount directly on the wood....See MoreUndermount sink with Butcher Block counters?
Comments (17)I recently stayed at an airbnb on a small island that had a wooden countertop with an undermounted sink. It was a little cottage that had been built in the 1920s. The owner said he hadn't done anything to the counter when he bought the cottage 6 years earlier or since, except replace a small section of countertop where the old hand pump had been before electricity had come to the island. It was edge-joined cypress (face up). It looked heavily varnished but the wood was in great shape and looked fantastic after 100 years. In no way would I shy away from an undermount sink with butcher block if I was willing to invest a little care. It's a beautiful look. I'm trying to figure out a way to install an undermount sink in one of the new IKEA "butcherblock" countertops, which are really only a thin layer of wood on an MDF core. The laminate-friendly sinks from KARRAN look promising, but they're made to mount flush into an MDF surface which then has laminate installed over the sink and trimmed away. I have to work out a way to rout out the MDF from underneath and leave only the solid wood over the sink and make sure it all gets sealed up. I haven't seen anyone on the internet do this, so I might be venturing out on my own....See MoreFireclay undermount sink with butcher block counters???
Comments (12)I purchased my IKEA butcher block countertops about 10 years ago and stored them for a couple more years before install. They had changed sizes and had the original size for 80% off and I couldn't resist a bargain. A few years later I picked up a Herbeau fireclay sink for $40 at ReStore and decided it was time to tackle my kitchen update. I finished the countertops with multiple coats of pure tung oil over a couple of weeks. Shortly after that, my hubby and I went on vacation and had a friend's girlfriend stay with the children for a week. I returned to find that she had used a dishtowel laid on the countertop to drain handwashed dishes. The water sitting on the countertop soaked through the finish and damaged the counter. Over the years since, we have had several more instances of damage and now have a split beside the sink. When we initially installed the counter, we were most concerned about the seam we needed several inches from the sink. We ended up using an epoxy product and the seam has been the most successful part of the installation. In summary, I won't use IKEA butcherblock again. The quality of the wood just doesn't meet my quality standards with too many knots, and uneven pieces. I also wouldn't use any butcherblock near water because I don't want to have to worry about a visitor or cleaner damaging the surface accidentally. I'm planning to use either Corian or a stone remnant for my laundry room remodel....See More- 9 years ago
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