I imagine this has happened to each of us once or many times. You are contently cooking away, building your creamy, saucy dish, in a groove, confident - and then you look down and see a saucepan full of curdling Ick.
Maybe this happens just before company is due. Maybe it happens with company looking on, fallen silent and thinking of urgent reasons to be called away, as you frantically stir and sweat and gabble.
I thought I'd seen my last curdle. I've learned my lesson, after all. No more substituting milk for cream, or skim milk for whole, in a sauce. No more overwhelming dairy with acid, most often being white wine. But apparently, I am still ignorant. As was proven tonight.
SWMBO is in New York and daughter is back at college, so it is just Son and me. I decided to make us a bachelor meal. Which means, walk to the store and wander aimlessly in the aisles until food jumps into your basket, then come home and make something up.
Our dinner ended up being boneless chicken thighs. First some cumin and coriander were cooked in chicken fat, then chicken stock, minced onions, fennel and garlic were added and cooked until soft. The thighs were placed in the simmering stock and braised. Then I stirred in a whole lot of Greek yoghurt plus a bit of butter, and a little half and half, to make a creamy sauce. All was going well, grooving, and then I saw the dreaded curdle filling the saucepan. The sauce had separated and was starting to look revolting.
WTH, thought I. There's no acid in there, and I've made sauces with Greek yogurt before, this was even Fage's full-fat Greek yoghurt. I have no idea why it happened?! So my son got me some flour which I frantically stirred into the fractured sauce, until finally it was smooth again. Then we covered it and let the chicken and sauce simmer until it was time to eat. With
basmati rice cooked in chicken stock.
So, I would like to have a discussion of curdling as well as its partner in crime, separation. Why does it happen? What is the kitchen science here? How many different types of curdle or separation exist? What dishes do you make that are most prone to either calamity? What is your sure fire preventative, and your never fail emergency repair?
(The dinner was pretty good. We sat at the dining table. I read the Economist, son read Spider-Man comics. No one was here to lecture us.)
carolb_w_fl_coastal_9/10
John LiuOriginal Author
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