If you lost two roses of greatly different age, then it isn't likely to be the age of the bush. I've read a number of times that roses grown on multiflora root stock generally start to decline after about 12 years. Not sure if that applies to other root stocks. But then, I've seen specimens of old climbers and HT that would have been grafted that have survived and prospered for fourty years or more. Since you are in zone 4b, I think a more likely cause is winer kill, possibly brought on by some type of stress, insects, disease, drought, etc. Every year, I loose a few plants. Drought and wind desication is often a cause. I have lost 4 plants in four years in one particular location, against a southeast wall. I keep thinking this is a very protected location, but every rose I plant is dead in the spring. This spring I've finally come to the conclusion that it is perhaps a very dry spot, sandy soil and under the eves. So I have planted a hardy variety that should be tougher over winter. We'll see. Cheers, Rideau Rose Lad

Most of the freezing guidelines take into account aesthetics, quality, AND safety. Foods dry out, get freezer burn, etc. in the freezer rather than spoil. If they look, smell, and taste OK, there really isn't a safety issue. I wouldn't use anything questionable to make another product, it would be a waste of time to make something from sub-par ingredients. It wouldn't be a safety issue, but your quality might suffer, even to the point of being unpalatable if they were freezer burnt or something. Thaw your products, smell, taste, inspect. If they are OK, I wouldn't hesitate to use them in jams. Deanna

As a collector, I track my seed longevity, so that I know how often seed needs to be regrown. I planted a lot of older seed this year, and these are my observations: Beans: Of 10 varieties planted from saved seed, (mostly from 2009), 5 had 100% germination, 3 had 96%, and 2 are just coming up now but look strong. Two more varieties being grown for the first time (one labeled as 2009, the other a swap of uncertain age) had rates of 87% and 60% respectively. Two limas (2010 & 2013) & two runner beans (2010 & 2015) had 100% germination. A yardlong bean (2012), adzuki (2010), and garbanzo (2014) all germinated 100%. One cowpea grown last year, however, had only 66% germination. It was grown under poor conditions, which demonstrates that you have to start with good seed to get good storage life... and I am hoping for better seed quality this year. Soybeans: Seem to have a shorter storage life than beans, especially large-seeded edamame varieties. An edamame type (2010) had very poor germination (under 10%), while a grain variety from the same year had nearly 100%. I was happy to see, though, that an edamame variety from 2007 still had about 7-8% germination, which is enough for me to renew the seed stock. Tomatoes: Two older varieties (2005 and 2006) had 100% germination, and another from 2005 had 83%. Saved seed from more recent years was 100%. The only tomatoes of 12 with poor germination were from swaps; one 64%, and one 0%. Peppers: Much more variation in germination than I see in tomatoes. The oldest (from 2007) had 92%. However, two varieties from 2012 (Beaver Dam & Pizza) only had 59% and 74% respectively. Of 15 varieties planted, only one had 100% - from 2015 seed. Seeds recently acquired (swaps or purchases) again had the worst performance; 27%, 57%, and one at 0%. Bitter melon: Two varieties; seed saved from 2015 (100%) and 2013 (98%). Cucumber: Very long-lived... seed saved from 2009 still had 100% germination. Watermelon: Blacktail Mountain saved seed (2012) - 100%. Onions: I did a bunching onion trial one year, then tried to plant some of the left over seed 3 years later... it was dead. Onion seed is the only one that I always freeze. I don't save seed for sweet corn & Swiss chard, but I buy them in bulk, and they have good germination for 3-4 years. Except for a few irreplaceable varieties (for which I freeze samples), all of my seed is stored at room temperature in an air conditioned home. I have had good luck with zippered freezer bags, since I can squeeze out excess air before storage; the bags are then packed tightly in boxes, so they can't re-inflate. Don't know if naming a brand is OK, but the Hefty freezer bags have proven to be the most durable. Cool & dry is important for seed storage, but exclusion of oxygen is also helpful - especially for room-temperature storage. For the most dedicated seed stewards, enclosing a desiccant & an oxygen absorber in the seed container will extend storage life. It is also important to avoid exposing the container to direct sunlight, especially if it is clear... heat buildup can occur very rapidly, and could kill or damage seeds in a very short time. If the seed container is opened frequently, the desiccant may need to be changed periodically, especially in humid environments. "And if you decide to give seeds away do tell people seeds age, as best as you can recall. Recipient will at least be prepared for what to expect." Agreed... and keep in mind that for swaps, your storage may have started in a hot mail box.

A slim chance, but I think the chewing on one side and the drooling and bad breath probably mean she does need some sort of intervention. She is a former feral and still not easy to handle, so light sedation probably wouldn't work. We'll see what the vet thinks after the blood tests and exam this afternoon. If all are good and she is likely in pain we'll have it done first thing next week.