Purzo, The Thai Soco's can be very interesting in that they will give you a larger caudex than most Obesum's. Although the obesums definitely have a wider range for flowers. I can only speak of growers that I know and am not sure about the UK for getting them. Rinoa Chen (orient Adeniums), Kukuan (adeniumcenter), Warunee (atgtree.com) are good. Rinoa has very healthy plants and will send a list. Rick

1) Something you may feel is important for a newbie to know: Sow heavier than any commercial seed packet ever indicates. 2) Something you learned your first year: I use a modified milk jug flap - I turn the U upside-down like a doorway arch, so it opens like a drawbridge. The flap bends down to open. This allows the same improved access (instead of cutting the whole jug in half), but increases access by allowing me to see what I'm doing in there! No ducking low to see under the flap. 3) Something you would not do again: I will never use salad containers again, not enough soil and they dry out too easy. Had much better germination rates in the milikjugs. 4) Something you have always done since you started WS because it worked out so well -- Am changing this to "this year's hopeful improvement" since it's only my second year: I like sowing more than one thing per container, and often have lots of things that I only have a small amount of seeds for -- so am using bottomless dixie cups as dividers inside the milk jugs. this way I can sow several columbines in the same container, and then they should all be ready to plant out at the same time. Last year I put several things in the same jug, but had to keep them of different types (can't put rudbeckia 1 in with rudbeckia 2 or they're gonna get blurred together with watering sliding seeds around) so knew what was what if they got blurred together. This made for needing to remove 1/4 of the container for planting out and the rest of the container not being ready; and having much more complicated records for the jugs. Now I have Columbine jugs, Astible jugs, etc. Nice. From last year-- Plant tag goes in with the seeds! Still listing container code numbers onto paper with a diagram of what seeds are where in each one...just in case of a container tumble later. Paint markers are great for labels. Make friends with someone who has 6 kids. They'll produce 5+ milk jugs per week for ya'. 5) Something you have learned over the years to be effective: Organize the process for speed. Don't even try to hit the "normal germination" instructions for each seed type. Just plant half as deep as the widest part of the seed, don't bother nicking/soaking anything; make the seed lists straight from my seed box and leave it alphabetized; only separate the list by "these are definately being sown" and "these might if I have time", perennials and annuals, just basic prioritization; chunk the Priority Perennials list into 1st third = do in December, 2nd third = do in Jan, 3rd third = do in Feb; Priority Annuals into 1st half = do in March, 2nd half = do in April. Get to the extras when they fit in. Gottta love the assembly line approach. I'll follow Stage-Rat's example -- that weed seed pot is a "to die for" idea!

Tomatoes are annuals. From the time you plant them outside , in a container till they practically expire (due to cold or frost) is about 5 months in most places. And root bounding should not be a big concern. Having said above, I believe that they do not need a huge container. Even a 5 gallon bucket is big enough. Soil itself is just a medium. What the plants need are: Moisture and Nutrients. As long as you provide those to the plant REGULARLY and PROPERLY, that is all they care for. Most pot/container and in ground spacing is for the TOP consideration and head room than for root requirements. Just look at fruit trees like cherries. They are spaced mostly because the need head room, IF YOU WANT TO HARVEST FRUITS OFF OF THEM. I have seen towering, oaks, maples and other trees growing in clumps and share the nutrients in a common root space. If the soil is rich and they get enough moisture, they all will be just fine. The same is true about garden veggies. Even more so true b/c garden veggies are mostly annuals and thus have a short life. The commercial farmers provide a lot of spacing btween tomato plants, NOT BECAUSE it is required for the plants sake, but for maintenance and harvesting in a mechanized environment. But in a limited space in my backyard I dont do it that way. Then some have developed the concept of "Square Foot" gardening which is aimed at utilizing the garden space to its fullest. Planting in container goes even further in optimal use of space and soil. If one enjoys the luxury of space, soil, container space, that is perfectly fine too.

Hey Eric.. I am sorry that I seem to be the first to respond.. the year round green request has me stumped.. wisteria is a great plant and will flower after a year or two...or more.. worth the wait.. trumpet vines are good looking... and clematis are a nice vine not sure it would fit you needs.. there are some evergreens that grow tall and will climb fences... shame on me that the name isn't coming to mind.. have some fun .. and enjoy the trip.. every season in a garden can be fun... hope someone else gets in here to give you the "real Info" Enjoy !!! the home site sounds grand... color me green