So If my plant is a lilac how long do you think it will take until it flowers and how long can i safely keep it in a container. I don't have anywhere to plant it. I live in an apartment building so i may be able to upgrade it's pot. C sabol

It may just be my perspective but growing/cultural requirements to me mean something very different than attributes specific selections within the same species may offer. That's where you get down to cultivar level and make assessments on which cultivar/selection may work best for you. For example, 'Arp' may be one of the hardiest forms of rosemary but it still has the same basic cultural requirements as any other cultivar -- a need for full sun, well-draining, lean soil and minimal water (once established) and fertilizing. But maybe rosemary is not the best example as it is pretty much a single species genus (there is a another species but extremely uncommon in gardens or in distribution). Let's look at euphorbias, a genus with literally hundreds of species. Each species of euphorbia can (and most do) have very different growing requirements from other euphorb species, but within the same species the growing/cultural requirements will be virtually identical. Some cultivars may grow larger than others, some may produce larger/smaller flower heads or of slightly different coloring, some might even offer increased cold tolerance but the growing conditions - soils, water, light, nutrient demand, etc. will be the same. And that's where I disagree with the statement mindy (or her source) posed initially: "LIKE ALL PLANTS WITHIN THE SAME FAMILY OR SPECIES, Xanthosomas are all individuals and some can be used as bog plants, where others will simply decline and rot." To be more accurate, I'd change that statement to read: "like many plants within the same family or even genus, each species of Xanthosomas is unique: some can be used as bog plants while others will simply decline and rot under similar conditions." To be perfectly honest, if I were to read that statement without any preamble or mindy's intro to it, I would tend to interpret it exactly the same way as I wrote it -- unless you are a professional horticulturist or botanist, I doubt you make the distinctions between the various levels of plant morphology and understand what the writer was trying to say. Us geeky types tend to get hung up on the semantics but I understand the point the writer was attempting to get across regardless of the exact terminology :-) Actually, I think flora summed up the entire discussion very nicely: After all we are all the same species, just different cultivars. If you think about it, each individual offers something unique but we all share the same basic needs.

Well, I'm new to this forum and I haven't worked out how to get to the photographs, but I guess from the descriptions that they're in a pretty poor state and suffering from too much competition or poor soil. The biggest single problem that they cannot deal with is poor drainage. Thereafter you should be able to overcome most situations with a bit of TLC and an appreciation of what they like best, you do not need perfect conditions by any means but you have to give them a chance. Like any plant they need a good start, once established they are far better at coping with competition, drought and neglect than in their first season. They prefer a deep rich moisture retentive(but never waterlogged) soil. Thin stony soil or competition from either tree roots or too much surrounding vegetation will result in stunted dwindling plants. They prefer to be shaded from the midday sun but too much shade(low branches) will cause them to be stunted. They're happiest at the woodland edge, or where there is a high canopy, light shade but good light. They will survive in most soils but slightly alkaline will suit them best, so spent mushroom compost with it's lime content is good, otherwise aim for slightly on the alkaline side and you should be OK, they will grow in neutral to slightly acid as well. If you recognise some of these as failings in what you have, try lifting the plants, loosening the soil, adding humus rich compost, raise the level of the soil using logs or something and planting in fresh rich soil above the previous level, they need a depth of at least one spit(forkdepth) of good soil, preferably with the spit below loosened and enriched with compost before planting. Give them a good mulch in the spring when you cut the old leaves back. If you have good soil they will not need feeding, but if not, feed them during the growing season, immediately after the flowering season,May-July. Half meet these requirements and you should have good healthy plants in 18 months. Meet all of them and you will have self sown seedlings, an abundance of flowers, and life long friends. Get hold of a copy of Elisabeth Strangman & Graham Rice's book "The Gardeners Guide to Growing Hellebores" it's what got me started. Cheers, Greenmanplants

Katrina - here is some info I found on growing red yucca. Apparently it takes about 4 years from seed, for them to flower. Most retail or ebay merchants sell 10 seeds for $3.95 - kind of expensive, huh? "Drought remains a threat in parts of the U.S. ThatÂs one good reason to grow succulents. The red yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora) is a drought-tolerant native that is well suited to zones 7 through 10. Red yucca is an outstanding perennial. The semi-succulent leaves appear in a clump-like mound. Up to four feet in length and an inch or so across, the foliage has a grassy appearance. Older leaves can remain on the plants for years. You might be able to tell from looking at it that the red yucca is a member of the Agave family (Agavaceae). Overall, the plants can be three feet in height and twice as wide. The plantÂs common name arises from its flowers, which are typically red. However, they may also be pink. Some yellow-flowering cultivars are also available. Blooms appear on eight-foot-tall flower stalks from spring through the fall. The individual, bell-shaped flowers are 1¼ inch long. Later in the season the large, distinctive seed capsules will appear. These contain flat black seeds. Red yucca is native to some parts of the Southwest, including the Chihuahuan Desert into Mexico. There seems to be some question about the plantÂs hardiness. Some say it is hardy to zero or 12 degrees Fahrenheit. Though some sources report that the plants are hardy to zone 5 (-20 degrees Fahrenheit), this may be pushing oneÂs luck. It is definitely recommended for USDA zones 7-10. This slow growing perennial is drought tolerant, and is recommended for xeriscaping purposes. In the landscape red yucca has numerous uses. It makes an excellent ground cover and accent plant, and is suitable for butterfly and bird gardens. Sometimes it is used for planting along roadsides. These plants are enjoying tremendous popularity, especially in Texas where people want drought-tolerant species. Eventually this demand is bound to result in the release of new cultivars. For optimal flowering, red yucca requires a sunny spot. It will grow in partial shade, but it just wonÂt bloom quite as well under those conditions. A well-drained soil is a requirement. Once the plants are established they require little attention. Some supplemental watering may be needed in very dry areas, but it is still considered a drought tolerant species. If desired, the old flower stalks can be removed. Gardeners should fertilize red yucca sparingly in the spring when it begins actively growing. Red yucca can be propagated by dividing the plants or by planting seeds, which is an easy method of producing more plants." Susan