My neighbor works for Ball International Nursery. They grew some of Yves Piaget's seeds in a 45% composted pine fines, peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, and gypsum. the pot was 1/2 gallon, but the rose had at least a dozen blooms, very impressive. That's the same way when I bought a gallon-rose from Home Depot. I pulled that rose out, and the soil was coarse pine barks mixed with peat moss, and osmocote fertilizer. There was at least a dozen blooms on that rose bush, way more blooms than leaves. The growing medium has an effect on flowering. The Russian Grower Gerda who posted the most-blooms roses in HMF told me she applied humus. Pine Fines break down into humus, and roses love that stuff. In my garden, there's a poor drainage clay spot, so I put tons of fresh pine mulch... the two roses Firefighter and Romantica Sweet Promise, both gave me 80 to 90 blooms as 1st year gallon-own-root. There's another spot which I fixed clay with peatmoss, thinking that would hold more moisture. However, Sonia Rykiel and Crimson Glory did bad, despite tons of rain, like 5 blooms for 1st year. I dug those up and found the soil was rock-hard like cement. Pine mulch (pH 4.5) works better than peat moss (pH 4) because it's a larger particle, which aerated my heavy clay. Roots need oxygen. Both Sonia Rykiel and Crimson glory were yellowish, due to soil compaction and less oxygen with dense peatmoss glue-up with clay. In contrast, peat moss worked great for Columbus Rose Park in Ohio ... they fixed their sandy soil with peat moss, with tons of blooms on Graham Thomas & others. Here's a horticulture research entitled "Rose-cultivation with coco-soil versus pumice". Here's the result: "As far as flower production was concerned, more flowers were harvested from plants grown on coco-soil than on pumice, independently of the planting density. On the other hand, stem length and weight were the same in rose flowers produced on both substrates. " See link below: Here is a link that might be useful: Comparative study of coco-coil vs. pumice soil This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Mon, Nov 25, 13 at 17:33

Carol: Some doctors mistake phytoestrogen (God-made & natural) with chemical estrogen (man-made). My Swedish mother-in-law grew up drinking tons of cow-milk (zero flax, zero soy), and had a mastectomy at 40 year old. No history of breast-cancer in my family of 9 girls (I'm the youngest girl), nor in my Mom nor Dad's side ... we eat tons of soy-products in Vietnam & zero cow milk. I got curious about phytoestrogen (occur naturally in plants) versus chemical hormones added to cow milk .. found this article from Cornell University: "A diet rich in phytoestrogens has been proposed as a way to decrease breast cancer risk. Some, but not all studies show that women with a diet high in phytoestrogens, including vegans (who eat no animal foods) and women who eat diets high in soy products, have lower rates of breast cancer. Why is this so? Most phytoestrogens are not stored in the body, but are quickly broken down. Phytoestrogens are weak estrogens, and may prevent stronger human estrogens from binding to the estrogen receptor. If the weaker estrogens bind to the receptor instead of the stronger ones, there may be less breast cell division. Women with diets rich in phytoestrogens also excrete more estrogens into their urine, and have lower blood estrogen levels. Some studies have shown that women with a diet rich in phytoestrogens have longer, and hence fewer, menstrual cycles. All of these factors may contribute to reduced breast cancer risk." http://www.envirocancer.cornell.edu/FactSheet/General/fs10.estrogen.cfm Below excerpt is from Oncology nutrition - Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics " Animal studies have shown that both flaxseed oil and lignans can reduce breast tumor growth and spread, even for ER- cancer cells. This result suggests that flaxseeds may have anti-cancer benefits that are unrelated to any type of effect on estrogen or estrogen metabolism." https://www.oncologynutrition.org/erfc/hot-topics/flaxseeds-and-breast-cancer/ Phytoestrogen is DIFFERENT from chemical hormones injected into cow to make them produce milk longer. An excerpt from below link: "new study out of Harvard University showing that pasteurized milk product from factory farms is linked to causing hormone-dependent cancers. It turns out that the concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFO) model of raising cows on factory farms churns out milk with dangerously high levels of estrone sulfate, an estrogen compound linked to testicular, prostate, and breast cancers. Dr. Ganmaa Davaasambuu, Ph.D., and her colleagues specifically identified "milk from modern dairy farms" as the culprit, referring to large-scale confinement operations where cows are milked 300 days of the year, including while they are pregnant. Compared to raw milk from her native Mongolia, which is extracted only during the first six months after cows have already given birth, pasteurized factory milk was found to contain up to 33 times more estrone sulfate. http://www.naturalnews.com/035081_pasteurized_milk_cancer_dairy.html#ixzz3uj5y7wGc Havard-trained doctor Andrew Weil, M.D. stated "Among women, milk consumption has been associated with an increased risk of ovarian cancer in both the Nurses' Health Study and in a 2005 study from Sweden's Karolinska Institute. Organic milk is better in many respects than conventional milk but still may be full of natural hormones. My advice: cut down on dairy products. Substitute soy milk for cow's milk when possible. Andrew Weil, M.D." From Physicians committee for responsible medicine "In international and interregional correlational studies, dairy product consumption has been consistently associated with prostate cancer mortality.3-7 The largest and most recent of these, based on World Health Organization mortality figures for 1985-1989 from 59 countries and United Nations food balance data for 1979-1981, reported a strong correlation between per capita milk consumption and prostate cancer mortality (r = 0.78, P<0.0001).7 A more geographically restricted study, conducted in 20 Italian regions, found a similar correlation between prostate cancer mortality and milk consumption (r = 0.75, P <0.01).6 http://www.pcrm.org/health/health-topics/milk-consumption-and-prostate-cancer *** From Straw: Agree with all the above researches, I gave flax oil to my kid to improve her eczema (skin-rash). I'm taking flax oil & flax seeds to improve my skin-rash. I develop an allergic reaction to the new batch of fish-oil (really stinky) .. and I still need Omega-3 for my dry-hands.

Gorgeous pictures of your Dortmund flowers, as well as the ones from Cleveland, Mmmm, if my Dr. Huey could look that good he could stay in my yard. Well, actually I do have him more or less deliberately climbing around my mailbox that gets totally swamped by a vigorous white clematis. Since we're all relatively cold zone rose growers musing about roses for various spots, I'll throw in my two cents. Realize of course that I do NOT have reliable snow cover and our wicked swings of temperature in the winter (and even down to 17 for a few days in early April this year) do in a lot of roses. What doesn't thrive for me might do fine for you. Dortmund I haven't grown because he didn't trip my buttons yet till I saw Flowers' lovely pictures and heard that he blooms all season. He's now working onto next year's possible list. Among the ones that have been mentioned, here are my experiences: Leonardo da Vinci - tall and narrow in a way that might suit that space instead of Dr. H, but not thornless. Mine is mostly cane hardy in z5, but doesn't bloom as often as I'd like (also in part sun at best though) Raspberry Cream Twirl might be a shrub in someone's z5 garden but has never survived even in my virtual z6 with pampering Victorian Memory - planted it once a few years ago and it didn't overwinter but I'm thinking that has to be a fluke (z2 rated for heaven's sake) so I'm replacing it this year Zephrine Drouhin - I have tried this one a couple of times including my protected spot and it never survived the winters. Even when happy I've heard it's a virtual once bloomer Candy Land, cl. - like RCT I can't get this one to survive even in my protected area and if it did I can't get it to climb Fourth of July - took a couple of tries to get this one to "take" but in my protected spot it's heading into its third spring with a good 6-8" of surviving cane and should do better by next year. Reine des Violettes - I've had "not RdV" for about 10 years and it is a thorny once-bloomer. If you want a thornless climber I think this is absolutely your best bet, just be sure to get the real RdV. Matt has contacted me and says he's now sure he has the real thing. Mine was a small band of the real RdV a few years ago so it's just now starting to reach for its supports to climb. Jeanne laJoie - I had her climbing for years on a shepherd's hook in my z6 area and she'd reach a good 6-7' by the end of the season. She mostly bloomed in June though, even in max sun, and I never got much rebloom. She faded after about 6 years and I tried replacing her, but other roses took priority Lunar Mist (and its cousin Colette) - I've been a fan of Lunar Mist ever since it has staked a modest claim on fence area near Lady Ashe. It has a little surviving cane most years and can get to 8-10'. Not quite arch-worthy, but somewhat better survival than Colette and in harsher conditions too Lady Ashe - I like this rose and it can get to a decent 6-8' on a good year. I have mine in a particularly harsh spot that's more z4 than 5. She can die to the ground some years, but she and Dublin Bay have hung in there for a good 10 years so they earn their space. I like the color and bloom form but neither gets all that big. Coral Dawn - this is a sport (I think) of New Dawn so it has some of the same benefits and down sides. Oddly enough this one was a body bag and has survived Ok for me, climbing to maybe 5' by the end of the season, but I've never been able to get New Dawn beyond about 3' and it always eventually dies on me. White Dawn however I have planted grafted from about 3 years ago and it's a good 4' wide and 5' tall and counting in a prime location with some nice blooms. Peggy Martin - that's one I haven't grown and I had hesitated because it has a reputation as a once bloomer, and there are prettier flowers on some other once-bloomers I've coveted. How is the repeat on yours Vapor/Flowers?? She's definitely a survivor. and your recommendation is compelling Felix LeClerc - you know by now that I LOVE this rose and it's one of the first to start and last to stop. Not nonstop blooms but I have photos from every month from its start in late May through November. Absolutely cane hardy and delightful dark purple-pink double blooms. Mine is a huge 10' "self supporting" shrub because I planted him too far from the fence, not knowing he was a climber at first. I have a 5' ring fence around him that keeps him more or less upright but I wouldn't recommend him for that small space. Mine keeps trying to eat the gateway to my neighbor's yard Purple Skyliner - I could never get this one to survive which puzzled me because Veilchenblau is such a trooper, though Yesterday isn't very hardy so maybe that's it Clothilde Soupert, cl. - my regular Clothilde is about 8 years old and blooms off and on with more or less surviving cane. If any rose will ever ball in your yard, CS will so don't plan on having open blooms unless you have a pretty dry climate Quicksilver - Moses just sings this roses' praises but I've tried about 4 times, grafted and not, and I can't get it to survive more than a year in a typical zone 5 spot. I'll try her again next year in my protected spot, but I don't expect it to climb even there Angel Face cl. - given that climbing versions of roses are usually less vigorous than the originals I have trouble imagining what climate this one would climb in, since Angel Face has a reputation for being a wimp even in California. I have one that just barely survives in my z6 area and can bloom occasionally at 6" but not remotely vigorous. Poseidon is what you want for a tall lavender in our cold climates. Crimson Glory - this one bloomed for several years grafted in a normal spot but I haven't been able to replace it successfully. I only have the HT not climbing form. Buxom Beauty only grudgingly survives in my zone 6 areas now and then Handel - I had this one on the side of an arch for about 10 years and it would get to about 4' or so by then end of the season. Not that much bloom and a relative wimp compared to other Kordes roses. Antique 89 is a little better at having surviving cane in a similar color range, but not a frequent bloomer Paul Jerabek - I have asked Roses Unlimited for this rose for about 6 years, and they never have had it in stock. A lot of Jerabek roses do well for me - Paw Maw isn't in great conditions but it has hung in there for about 4-5 winters. Have to try Freedom Gardens Lady in Red - this one looked so nice in its first year that I had high hopes but even in our last mild winter it had no surviving cane and might not have survived. Florentina can beat this rose in every way and it doesn't usually have much dieback Pinata - I used to grow this one as a knee high shrub when I had it grafted but I haven't been able to get it to survive own root even in my most protected area Altissimo - looks to have survived the winter just fine, but only in its second year so no particular blooms to speak of Oranges 'n' Lemons, Sexy Rexy, Olympiad - all of these survive reasonably well in a normal z5 spot for me so it's definitely worth a go in z4 with snow cover Joe. Olympiad, Chrysler Imperial, and Veteran's Honor are probably my hardiest z5 HT reds. None of these get big for me though - 3' max Guirlande d'Amour - I love this rose and it's rock solid hardy for me even in part sun, but it gets huge - easily 6'X6' or more with blooms off and on all season. I have trouble seeing it as a traditional climber in my zone but I have encouraged it to be self supporting. Heavenly Pink is like this one, or Darlow's Enigma - they get big but it's hard to call them "climbers". Great and tough roses, even for z4! Super Excelsia - I tried this once in less than ideal circumstances and might try it again, but Peggy Martin sounds better from your reports Pinkie cl.- not remotely hardy for me in 5 or 6 tries, neither is Renae or sadly its lovely offspring Annie Laurie McDowell (too bad because they're thornless) Blaze Improved - never got around to trying that one, but offhand I'd say Florentina is prettier, and Fields of the Wood/Rhode Island Red is much more hardy. Not a tremendously frequent bloomer but mine has a good 6' of cane after winter and will be putting out laterals shortly. Rambling Red or Rhode Island Red can survive zone 4 winters and I had a Rambling Red in my z4 pocket in lousy conditions for years before it finally faded. Quadra is more pink than any of those climbers (all of them can pink out a bit in heat), and it's by far the most traditional climber and the best rebloomer by far. It's one of my two biggest climbers - the other is the "ground cover" Sunrise Sunset that gets positively massive. Both of those need a big arch, not just a trellis or single support or fence. John Cabot - lovely rose but also floppy and spreading, not a traditional climber. Mine is maybe 8-10' tall and 4-5' wide, with 5' fencing around it. I have mine next to the very similar Alexander Mackenzie, and AM wins in both size and frequency of bloom. They take a good 5 years to settle in and rebloom, and they do blackspot if you are prone to that in your zone Rosarium Uetersen is mostly cane hardy for me and would look nice against that brick. it's a pretty vivid coral and its spring bloom is nice, but I don't get much rebloom and mine is over 10 years old. It's really thorny too. Yeah, I know - here goes Cynthia rambling on about all these roses just because she's killed (or occasionally successfully grown) most of them. I'm happy to encourage you to learn from my mistakes. So what would I recommend for that spot mmmm? You might think about something tall and narrow that's self supporting since any kind of structure is going to jut out into your walkway. Offhand, roses that fit that bill in my yard would include Poseidon (lavender), Leonardo da Vinci (dark pink), Dark Desire (dark red), Queen of Sweden (light pink), and maybe Sweet Fragrance (luscious coral apricot) if you prune it in a bit. Another likely option is Aloha, which I have as a narrow self-supporting shrub with just a shepherd's hook for support. It reblooms well in medium pink and stays around 6-8' within a 3' radius. Polka is another climber that's entirely hardy in our zone, a wonderful dark apricot double, and it never gets very bushy. It mostly puts out a few blooms at the end of its one main cane. Laguna is a pretty reliable climber in dark pink and it doesn't get out of hand. Ascot is a dark red narrow columnar bush for me, though it gets huge for Diane in zone 7 Idaho. Two roses that get much bigger than the front of the bed where I put them are Champagne Moment/Lion's Fairy Tale (cream) and Dame des Chenonceau (pink) - I have them cascading over a low fence but they might stay in bounds with a tall narrow support. Petal Pushers is a stalwart tough little climber that J&P puts out that I've had for a good 8 years. It's mannerly and would stay within that area pretty well with a support, and it blooms pink off and on all season. So if you like the dark contrast of the Dr H but want rebloom, I'd go with the column-type Dark Desire, Florentina, or Rhode Island Red. Aloha or Lady Ashe would fit the bill nicely in the pink range, and Poseidon can take care of lavender while Lunar Mist takes yellow and Sweet Fragrance takes apricot. I can't think of anything remotely thornless though, and if Peggy Martin is indeed a thornless rebloomer and that's a priority, that's where I'd go (or Reine des Violette). The only other thornless hardy rose I can think of in my yard is Veilchenblau and there's no way he'd stay contained in that space. Just rambling myself, but FWIW those are my impressions Cynthia

Bp37 -- I feel your pain. My Gabriel Oak and Eustacia Vye were soooo late for me in coastal CA, zone 10. And they were very small roots -- did not look like previous DAs I'd got via mail and at local nursery. But I planted 'em. G.Oak had super small blooms -- more like a mini, that didn't last long at all. And Eustacia had about 12-15 buds that looked like they'd be amazing, but then they crisped up and died. And this was BEFORE our heat wave! I've trimmed all even tiny bud starts off both bushes, and am hoping they will put some energy in their roots. If these were my first ever DAs I'd be swearing off Austins for life. But I know that they had a very tough year between covid and flooding, so I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt. And giving the roses more time before making any judgments... In my town, the big local nursery that specializes in bare roots opens on January 2 -- a sacred tradition for me to go and buy my bare roots! I didn't get my DAs until APRIL this year. WAY too late...