I have two Trumpet vines, Campsis x tagliabuana 'Madame Galen' & Campsis radicans ' Flamenco'. I wasn't sure if this is the kind of vine you meant or not when you said Trumpet vine. Anyway, if they are the same kind of vine, mine are both vigorous growing plants with one really nice advantage. They can climb a rough surface without any help from me. Although I have them on trellises, they actually hug the brick wall by themselves. They each cover a 3-4 foot wide space (could be more if I let them) and climb way past the trellises and up to the eaves of the house. I cut them back to the trellis level once or twice a season. Easy to do since I can pull them off the house by separating them from the wall at the top of the trellis height and giving one good tug on a bunch of stems, they tumble down and I hand prune them off. Foliage on both is always very clean and a deep green. Foliage lasts well into late fall-early winter and when the leaves eventually fall they leave a nice structure of creamy colored branches on the wall. They are late to start up in the spring, but fill in quickly once they do and give good coverage. If they can holdfast to the wood fence that would be a really nice advantage in using them there. I also have a Hall's Honeysuckle. This one I let go up a large trellis and flop back down in a waterfall manner. It cannnot climb the wall by itself I also have to watch this one carefully and catch all the long stems on the sides (wants to grow wider than a trellis) that get missed (not tucked into the trellis) and trail around on the ground. Whenever I find a bunch of leaves on the ground 10-20 feet away that look like honeysuckle leaves, I have to lift the stem up and trace it all the way back to the mother plant and snip it off. I've never had any trouble with the vine rooting where it lays, but I am pretty vigilant. Foliage on Hall's is shinier and brighter than on the trumpets. Mine always stays clean, no mildew problems, but I sometimes get dead inside leaves from the flopover growth pattern it grows in. Flowers smell wonderful, even in a cold zone 5. I do not get a ton of them because of the cutting back that I do on this one. (I'm not sure if this one grows flowers on old stems only or not, but it seems to bloom at least more heavily on old stems.) I would definitely put this one somewhere where I walked around or near it. Sorry, but I have not grown the Hydrangea vine. Sun/shade/dry shouldn't bother the others much. Of my trumpets one grows on the east side of the house and the other on the west. The hall's grows on the east side towards the south near my gate to the back yard. I have heavy clay moisture retentive soil. Plants were pocket planted only, in lightly amended soil and generally receive no supplemental water, only what they can get under the eaves. I'd probably need a bulldozer and a big truck to pull them out of the clay now.

Wow, thanks for all the great advice and suggestions. I did not know that about tulips (said in my best Ron White voice). I have enough trouble with my own accelerated depreciation, let alone dealing with that of bulbs that I plant, and this property is Grand Central Station for deer, so I think IÂll stay away from tulips and focus on other spring bulbs. DD, I did not find King Alfred on the BreckÂs website, but I learned from some of the other excellent sites mentioned that it only called that in the US and that elsewhere in the world it is called Dutch Master. Given the size, IÂll bet that BreckÂs ÂColossal Daffodil is probably their version of Dutch Master. Peering around my monitor, I can see a half dozen blooming right now out in the garden. Even in the rain they hold their headÂs up proudly, must be royalty. Too many choices! With respect to daffodils I found a couple of collations that offer nice variety and include some of the ones yaÂll recommended. I think IÂll start with those and then see what to add, either later this year or next year, after they bloom. I have a coupon for BreckÂs that expires soon and also want to order some perennials from them, so I think IÂll start there and maybe order from some of the other websites, once their 2006 catalogs are out. I also like the idea of layering. The reason I stayed away from spring bulbs for so long was because I considered them one-hit wonders  a week or so of color and then wilting greens. BUT, after watching the crocus and tulips and daffodils and hyacinths bloom one into the other, IÂve gotten just a bit wiser. And, with layering it is possible to extend the color in the same spot, instead of scattered all over the garden (not that thatÂs bad, either). Since I have so many new stretches of bare ground to fill, what with all the construction, itÂs the perfect opportunity to plant layers, since there will be nothing blocking me. Again, thanks everyone for all the great ideas. I am definitely psyched to plant bulbs. narcnh

David, thanks for your reference to this species, O. cacanapa-ellisiana! I did not know about this Opuntia at all until you mentioned it. I just purchased and received cuttings from an on line source. Absolutely gorgeous! Received several LARGE pads for $12.00! I have LOTS of O. humifusa which I also love..., despite the thorns and the prickles. The spineless one is hardy also to Zone 7a..., I hope it too is deer resistant! LOL. BTW, do you happen to know if either of these species is eaten, by humans (I know that there is at least one tropical species is eaten), O. indica (which I do grow but not to eat!) Oh, I am not even that much of a cacti nut..., except for epiphytic cacti, Opuntia and Cereus (so, I guess the more tropical/subtropical species, not so much the xerophytic ones).

See and that was right at the time I went from hybrid teas and such to the own root roses is right before the polar vortex winters. Don't get me wrong we always had cold winters but with climate change and all its hard to give the best advice. Linda Rainbow is another that has done really well. General Gallieni is not doing well, but he is trying. The Hugo something rose that I got from you last year, had a lot of die back Linda, you would know the name. I'm really hoping he does well. Souv. De Victor Hugo, just went and checked. But I finally got Archduke Charles to survive, so really excited about that. The fact that your roses have such great roots help them with cold winters :) This is the third Achduke Charles I have bought so I think it's your superior rooting is the reason I finally got him to live. MAM is another good one, Linda is right. Mine is just in a bad spot and needs moving I think. If I was you Orchard I would start with a bigger size rose so that it will help it during winter and have a better chance. If your able to buy from longagoroses I really recommend them, they are bands, but gallon sized or bigger root wise. Some places sell gallon size and sometimes they will have top growth, but root growth doesn't match. But longagoroses doesn't ship to all states, not sure if you are able to order from there, ARE, and RU are two other good places. More people could probably recommend more as well. Best of luck with your choice. I think either the monster teas either don't grow as big in a climate with a winter or it could just take them a lot longer to reach that size. I'm doing a alfalfa tea this year, and will report back on how that does. I am using more stuff than alfalfa though. Sorry for such a long post, I do hope it was helpful. Also would be great to amend your soil well, the best start possible. I'm the type of person that just digs the hole, amend it a little and mulch. If I did more it might would make a difference :) so what lives for me is tough ~smiles~ I do however grow them in pots fgor a year or two before planting out, they get more babyed in the pots, so I expect with good roots, be able to grow well, when I plant them. Tough love moma here. Sometimes I'll give them some water in the summer, if it's been really dry. We usually get rain here though. I'm not that bad :) But because of health and kids a rose does have to be a little tough.