Twee I would get a second opinion. Leaks at a valve are usually easy and relatively inexpensive to repair. Evap coil leaks In an air handler can be another matter entirely. Standard procedure when adding refrigerant is to include dye especially when tech did not attempt to find the leak. Let the system then run for several days and return to check coil to locate leak with proper tools. Was dye inserted? Do you even know? Yes, evap coils can be replaced in an air handler. However, usually this s not cost effective due to the expense. I assume air handler is out of warranty. IMO

It is 14 years old and way past the warranty. The guy said the fan didn't have enough drag when he cut the machine off (it span for too long) so the motor must be weak. In that case it could have sent hot freon into the evaporator coil and that's what caused it to leak. He said the blower motor sounded too loud. The outside motor I can replace myself if need be but others are telling me, if it isn't broken don't fix it! The Carrier isn't happening lol. What would be a reasonable price for a Trane air handler to match my old 5ton xe1200 heatpump? Some say 2500, some 3000. Sears quoted me 6500 both Payne bottom of the barrel units!! This post was edited by LynnInTex on Fri, Sep 12, 14 at 0:04

the old adage applies here.....you get what you pay for. I am sure that there are great techs out there doing home warranty work, I just don't know of a lot of them The reason is because the Home warranty companies really try and beat down the tech/companies on their work/prices. The first tech put r-22 into your unit and should have at leaste looked for a leak as units do not just run out of refrigerant. The 2nd tech is talking about the recovery charge I believe. I would ask the home warranty folks if they cover this charge and if not why not as it is part of the proper installation of the new evaporator coil. If they are putting in a new coil, verify that you are getting one for the right size and for the refrigerant that your a/c system uses. Make sure that a new liquid line filter drier is installed with the new coil. Will the tech "pull a proper vacuum" to check and see if there are no other leaks? If the tech is brazing instead of soldering will he purge with nitrogen? All good questions to ask

I don't like it either. Surly the intake and/or furnace could be moved to alow smoother transitions. Why was the evap replaced? I don't mean to jump a rabbit but the advise is worth more than I charge. Techs have a habit of replacing coils when units leak but they can't find where. If the old coil is still on site keep it if you have room in the attic. At minium hang onto all paperwork in case the origional problem isn't fixed. I might feel different after looking inside coil but when case is taller than air handler,drain pan is normally mounted lower.