I went looking for images of those elements. Ribbed glass panels in cabinet doors is easy enough. Here's one in a bathroom vanity: Ribbed glass (or ''seeded'' glass) is also often found in period light fixtures: As for marquetry countertops, if you asked most kitchen cabinet makers for such, I imagine they would gape blankly at the gabbling woman. But there are plenty of companies doing stock and custom hardwood marquetry inlays using CNC laser cutters. Here's the thing - they are doing it in floors. Google ''hardwood floor inlay'' and see. Yes, many of the rosettes are infeasible for a 26'' counter, but look for the ''border'' designs - or create your own. Assemble a 26'' wide section of inlaid ''floor'' on a 3/4'' plywood substrate, encase it in Waterlox, and I do believe you'd have yourself a marquetry countertop. Another option - perhaps cheaper - is stenciling on hardwood, of which this is an example. And so is this What else? Beveled glass is readily available, as is chrome countertop edging, and any furniture or auto upholstery shop can cover a panel of 1/8'' plywood in soft butterscotch leather framed in silver studs (maybe not actual silver, but close enough). I don't know exactly what version of Art Deco you are headed for, or if you even like butterscotch, but the point is, you are not doing yet another white kitchen, you're doing something that isn't being done by the mainstream, so the ordinary kitchen sources are not making this stuff. Sure, there is cool Art Deco hardware around, but what passes for ''Art Deco'' kitchen cabinetry in the online catalogs is . . . disappointing. You are going to have to make it, or at least source it, yourself - and I think if you're comfortable outside the painted lines, you can. You'll find yourself hiring a floor guy to work on a countertop, hunting down the local hot rod upholstery shops, telling your cabinet maker to fit bathroom vanity faces to kitchen cabinet boxes - they'll still look at you like you're crazy, but you'll know you're not. Go for it, girl!

Image by: chaos_quilt Blue Bottle Wire Art by chaos_quilt Blue Bottle Wire Art Suncatcher Dangly Thing Another talented Garden Junk forum member shares a project with us Directions for the "Twisty wire, blue bottle, dangley-thingie" by Member chaos_quilt What was used: * Dutch Boy lead-free silver solder wire * Oatey lead-free solder wire * Cobalt Blue Bottles * Piece of bamboo fishing pole cut to desired length * Various skeleton keys * Thin gauge wire * Green and Blue crystals * Blue beads (from thrift store necklaces) * Chain and various other doo-dads How it was done: I only used a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist the tight curls on the tips of each wire...I did wrap the tips of the pliers with tape to keep from scratching the soft solder. I used two different kinds of solder wire...Dutch Boy lead-free silver was the easiest to form curls with, but the Oatey lead-free was cheaper and sturdier, so I used it, too. The solder is very easily bendable with just fingers, and is surprisingly easy to make patterns with. Also, if you mess up your bend, you have a little leeway with the solder to unbend and start again...you just have to straighten it out carefully. Each bottle has it's own hanger -either a loop in the solder, or a silver chain link...I took two long pieces of the Oatey solder, made a loop on one end of each, and inserted the other end into the hollow bamboo rod. Then I took a long piece of solder, attached it to the loop on one end, and spiral twisted it around the bamboo from one end to the other, attaching a bottle or key swirly at the bottom of each twist. Then I hooked it to the loop at the other end and tied on a shoelace to hang it from two tacks on the top of the window frame. They all hang from a length of bamboo fishing pole that I cut short. I think you could just twist the solder around whatever kind of pole you're attaching the bottles to, though, and make a hanging loop at each end, but I wanted the solder to go into the bamboo to give it enough strength to hold all the weight. The skeleton keys are hanging on a thin gauge wire so I could fit lots of green and blue crystals on, plus some blue beads, all from old thrift store necklaces. Hints and Tips: The Dutch Boy solder was found in the plumbing department at $5 a roll. The Oatey, sturdier, was $6 for a longer roll. The bottom picture shows how everything is attached to the bamboo...this works really well to hold everything on, and was so simple to do. When I am unwinding the solder from the roll, I really try to straighten it out...then just twisting and turning it by hand, it seems to curl just right. There is a lot of leeway in redoing the curls if yours don't turn out the first time, as long as you don't kink the solder. The window is just glass with a cling on it. They let lots of light in but give a lot of privacy, and are under $20 each, with lots of beautiful florals and patterns. And ....... "This is the most enjoyable craft I have ever made" (and may I add to that, so far we hope!)

Image by: CMWren Wire Art - Hoops Wire & Copper Art - Wire Hoop Garden Stake and Hanger Member CMWren shares more of her TIPS, and her wire art using metal craft hoops (shown in picture): ~You can make wonderful hooks for holding potted plants with heavy copper wire. Turn a coil on a large dowel (broom handle or closet pole) out of a piece of wire a foot or so long, add some kinks & curves, curl a "hook" on each end, try to keep the entire piece linear. Really large marbles (1.5-2+ inches) look good wrapped into the coil. Different finished lengths (4", 6", 8", etc.) will allow you to mix and match the pieces to hang a plant at "just the right" height. ~Varnish craft hoops (with spar varnish - a marine grade, "weatherproof" sealer) and allow to dry thoroughly before wrapping them with copper wire if you want them to stay shiny. They can not be polished back to their original color and shine. Leave them bare to weather on their own if you like the rusted look. ~Also, some people spray on a solution (unknown concentration) of Miracle Grow plant food to get instant verdigris on copper. And last, but certainly not least: Be forewarned: working with copper wire is addictive. And you will start getting funny looks at the hardware store until you show folks what you are doing. Then they will be jealous that they didn't think of it first.

Image by: CMWren Spirals FLAT SPIRALS Just a few of numerous possible shapes! I find that if you use the width of one of the tips of your round nosed pliers as a guide, you can make even increases without needing to guess at every turn. Bend your shape's first "layer". When you need to make the first increase in size for the second layer, set the inside edge of one of the pliers "pegs" even with the outside of the last layer and turn the wire around the outside of the peg to start the next row. Do this *every* time you put in a bend, for every side of every layer; the size of each progressive layer will automatically increase as you go. Finish off the spiral where you started so each side has the same number of layers. These can be left plain or you can bead them, and they can be used upright as picks or hangers, or upside down as dangles. Be imaginative with shapes, and get creative with uses... Plant picks, hair picks, chain pulls, etc.