I went looking for images of those elements. Ribbed glass panels in cabinet doors is easy enough. Here's one in a bathroom vanity: Ribbed glass (or ''seeded'' glass) is also often found in period light fixtures: As for marquetry countertops, if you asked most kitchen cabinet makers for such, I imagine they would gape blankly at the gabbling woman. But there are plenty of companies doing stock and custom hardwood marquetry inlays using CNC laser cutters. Here's the thing - they are doing it in floors. Google ''hardwood floor inlay'' and see. Yes, many of the rosettes are infeasible for a 26'' counter, but look for the ''border'' designs - or create your own. Assemble a 26'' wide section of inlaid ''floor'' on a 3/4'' plywood substrate, encase it in Waterlox, and I do believe you'd have yourself a marquetry countertop. Another option - perhaps cheaper - is stenciling on hardwood, of which this is an example. And so is this What else? Beveled glass is readily available, as is chrome countertop edging, and any furniture or auto upholstery shop can cover a panel of 1/8'' plywood in soft butterscotch leather framed in silver studs (maybe not actual silver, but close enough). I don't know exactly what version of Art Deco you are headed for, or if you even like butterscotch, but the point is, you are not doing yet another white kitchen, you're doing something that isn't being done by the mainstream, so the ordinary kitchen sources are not making this stuff. Sure, there is cool Art Deco hardware around, but what passes for ''Art Deco'' kitchen cabinetry in the online catalogs is . . . disappointing. You are going to have to make it, or at least source it, yourself - and I think if you're comfortable outside the painted lines, you can. You'll find yourself hiring a floor guy to work on a countertop, hunting down the local hot rod upholstery shops, telling your cabinet maker to fit bathroom vanity faces to kitchen cabinet boxes - they'll still look at you like you're crazy, but you'll know you're not. Go for it, girl!

I don't have a functioning camera right now to make an electronic photo file, but will remark that it is easiest inside a nice cabinet to use combinations of pex tubing and push to connect fittings such as Sharkbite brand (among many others) to avoid sweat soldering damage. All that is needed is a means to cut the pex to a clean flat end. Mistakes are easily remedied by using a different size piece of pex. Adapters exist to go from the pex to the fitting that dangling faucet hoses use. 3/8 poly line along with John Guest type push to connect fittings will be good for RO lines or such. Pex and poly are at their limit when used for pressurized water at boiling temperatures, so the hot water source in the house needs to be under some form of temperature control. A boiler type of water heater with potential for overshoot to 220 or so would be a risk in my view without a working moderator (required anyway by code). Some water chemistries tend to degrade the modulator so that needs to be kept in mind. My primary sink cabinet base includes garbage disposal and DWV plumbing, stand pipe for dishwasher hose, hot/cold feed for main faucet and to moderating valve for dishwasher (gets mix of hot and cold). Also there is the touch faucet control box, the fiber-optic garbage disposal control box, and quad electrical outlet. RO connection to both hot and cold sides of a pull-down faucet are present. All of the plumbing is mounted on stand-offs on the back or side walls of the cabinet base. kas

Image by: Yukon_Gold Yukon_Gold's Wire Art Wire & Copper Art - Adornments, Embellishments and Tools Adornments and Embellishments A variety of objects can be used to decorate your wire art piece such as: * Large or small marbles * Prisms/Crystals (from chandeliers) * Bells, whistles, and baubles * Buttons * Beads * Stones * Charms * Stained glass pieces and/or Beach glass * Broken or unwanted jewelry that still sparkles * Junk from your junk drawer * Doodads from your toolbox * Plastic marbles off the elastic hair tiebacks * Seashells from your last vacation * Suitcase padlocks that lost the key * Childrens metal toy jacks Use what you have and items that will withstand the weather for a time .... It's your art - design it however you'd like and make it personal! What tools to use * Wire cutters, light, medium and heavy duty * Pliers: needle nose, round nosed, and "everyday" (heavy wire cutters come as plier/cutter combo) * Dowels of various sizes -- cheap chopsticks, broom handles, wooden closet bar (check store for scrap ends of closet poles cut for other customers) * Rubber/latex gloves for better grip and less smelly, less green hands The diameter of the rod you use will determine the tightness of the spiral you are after. You can twist the wire by hand but it may help to have a pair of pliers handy. Notes from our members: Yukon_Gold tell us: I bought basket of larger seashells at dollar store for a buck, got other jewelry odds & ends, shiny buttons, brass jingle bells all for a donation at a Humane Society yard sale. The wooden heart was lettered "Bless This Home" by a child's hand, and I loved it. I used a combination of wooden spoon handle, old thread spool, pliers to make the bends in the wire ...... Not a lot of flourish, but I look at this art as having items of interest and something unusual to look at out in the garden areas. The fish copper art could go near a pool or hot tub. Mush adds this about her embellishments: The white thing is a little shell on top of a heart-shaped bead. The glass is beach glass that I have collected on trips to Barbados. And, YES, I am hooked! sonicsink says: I used wire that I got at the hardware store, marbles from the dollar store and crystals from an old chandelier that my parents were throwing out last year. And in another one - a super jumbo marble, one of many my dog found in a field about 5 years ago..even my dog is a junker LOL! ~~~ TIP: To get nice even 3D coils, use wooden dowels: chopsticks, 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" dowels, broomsticks and wooden closet bars. Wrap the wire close but not tightly around the dowel a few turns in one direction, then do a kind of twist to add a kink before continuing with a spiral in the opposite direction; this makes it much more visually interesting, good for a vine-like effect. Don't wrap the wire too tightly around the dowel or you might not get the wire off of the dowel. Once you've removed a 3D wire coil from a dowel, you can tighten or loosen it holding one or both ends of the wire and twisting your hand/hands. Wrap a couple turns of wire around a dowel that's about the diameter of a marble to make a starter socket for the marble; it's easier than trying to wrap the marble free-hand.

Image by: Yukon_Gold Stove Element Heart Stove Element Copper Wire Heart Member Yukon_Gold doesn't let any good junk pass her by, here a rose heart she made from a burnt-out stove element: Just can't throw the stuff out--this time, used the following materials: 1) The good old left over electrical Romex 12/2 copper wire (still have tons left) from ours and now somebody else's electrical projects; and 2) A nonfunctional electric oven baking element that blew just before Easter dinner needed to be cooked. We got to go out for dinner (heh, heh). Replacement element cost $40, so the old one HAD to be recycled by me. Just squished the bottom connector tabs together to hold bottom to a pointed shape, the rest was as you see it. It made a nice, strong framework for the copper wire designs. Of course, as I was staring at the blown-out element after my husband replaced it, I heard him say quietly, "Oh, no! I just knew you were thinking of making something with it." Sure enough... The wire gauge is 12, which is a little heavy, but I've gotten used to it. Plus it stays put when stressed. Got my hands on some 14, but I keep going back to the 12, it seems to be larger and more visible from a distance. It's limited for more intricate shapes, and most beads don't fit on it. To strip, I use a box cutter carefully: A) If you are using Romex electrical wire pieces, there are 3 copper wires in there, one wrapped in paper and 2 wrapped in plastic. I hold the Romex flat and put it on a heavy piece of cardboard to avoid damage to the table, then carefully slice the covering and remove. B) Then for the individual plastic coated wires, I put an old magazine over my knee for protection, put the wire on my knee at the 2 o'clock position, then I hold the boxcutter at a slight angle with my right hand putting pressure on the wire covering with the blade, then I slowly draw the wire through with my left hand as the blade cuts a side of the plastic. I can do about 10-12" per tug. I do not remove the plastic cover until I have the whole wire length completely opened on the one side, then I pop it off. I've done up to 15 feet of wire this way. Make sure the box cutter has a newer, good blade or you'll be chopping little pieces off instead which is tedious. My personal favorite is the swirl shape, like concentric circles, only continuous. Like acorkscrew piggy tail, then flattened. I could see some of these inside the star, kind of swirling-planet look alikes. Have fun. P.S. There are two v-shaped attachments on the upper back of the element which will hang it perfectly (those were the legs that held the element off the bottom of the oven). Actually, I've been thinking of screwing it to the edge of a wooden flower box or deck edge, there are also two metal tabs with holes about 6" from the bottom on the back for doing that (those were the metal tabs that screwed the element to the back of the oven box).