Hi Seil, I agree with the above comments. One thing I didn't see mentioned is pH. Have you done a pH test? Roses prefer slightly acidic. 6.5 is ideal. Will still be happy in 6.3 to 6.8 range. You can buy a cheap pH Test Kit at any garden store. Some of the drug stores have them too. If your pH is too high or too low, it will lock up the nutrients so your roses can't get to them . . . even though you are feeding your roses. Water was mentioned as well. Rule of thumb is 2-3 gallons of water per week. Depending on the season and your climate, they may need more. Deep watering is best. Meaning don't water a little every day. (I made this mistake in the beginning). We want to encourage roots to go deep into the soil. Therefore, it's better to water twice or three times a week for a longer period. Also good to check the drainage. Roses don't like "wet feet". Easiest way to do this is to dig a hole (6" should do). Fill it with water either in the morning or evening. If the water has not drained within a few hours, you have a drainage issue. Can add 1/3 perlite or sand to help with this. It's a lot of info we've given you. It's hard to tell offhand what the issue is. Might be a combination. Just need to eliminate things one at a time. Hope this helps. Melanie

OK, so the thermometers aren't to problem. The puzzle of temp difference continues. In the link I referenced previously, they say: Radiation Cooling: On clear, cold nights, plants and other objects within a greenhouse will lose heat to the outside by radiation cooling. Because objects within the greenhouse are much warmer than those outside, they lose heat by emitting infrared radiation through the glazing and into the clear sky. Under such conditions, the foliage temperature may be 5 F cooler than the surrounding air. Radiation cooling occurs very little when skies are cloudy. If the same applies to the humid air trapped in the greenhouse, it could explain the difference. Since surfing the net trying to figure this out was more fun than doing my income tax return, off I went. This USA Today article explains why humid air (counter intuitively) is lighter than dry air. Ding! maybe lighter air radiates heat at a greater rate than dry air. Off I went on that tangent. I then stumbled across this Texas Gardener article on frosts/freezes that references the temperature differences between solid objects and the air around them... back to the point made in the original link. It further explains how wrapping / covering plants (as inside a greenhouse) will protect plants from frost. I'm more confused that when I started. I knew one day I'd regret reading comics during my Grade 2 Thermodynamics lessons. I'm going back to doing my income tax.

Mary, Are you referring to window restoration or just sealing up some existing windows? The two are going to be very different type professionals. If it it just sealing up some exterior trim on windows, a decent painter can do that. If its window restoration, that is a different ball of wax. Window restoration is a very niché marketplace. The best thing to do is start with a Google area search near your home and especially in those areas that are more heavily concentrated in older homes. Next would be to ask around any of the historic districts that are in your area and see who they might have a list for. Hope this helps.

Thanks for those articles from me, too. The CDC still says to use bleach to disinfect, which is different than sanitize. They say that to disinfect hard, non-porous surfaces you need 1/3 cup of regular chlorine bleach per gallons of water, although Clorox recommends using 1/2 cup bleach per 1/2 gallon. For small batches, use 4 teaspoons of regular chlorine bleach and 1 quart of water. Dip a cloth into the mixture, wipe the surface, ALLOWING THE SOLUTION TO CONTACT THE SURFACE FOR 5 MINUTES AND AIR DRY. For food contact surfaces, like countertops and high chair trays, rinse with warm water and air dry after disinfecting. Use it sparingly on stainless steel sinks and surfaces. I use bleach regularly, I have all those white bar mops that I wash and bleach, I use them for everything. I also bleach the white socks and cotton gloves I use/wear on the farm, as well as wash cloths and some white towels. A person should NEVER have white towels on a farm, BTW. Anyway, I use enough that it's never outdated, and I leave it in the original opaque container. The biggest mistake people make, though, is to wipe their counters with the solution but not leave it the required 5 minutes before wiping the residue to dry their surfaces. If you don't do it correctly, it doesn't work correctly. Annie