Well either one would work but I'd go with the cheap one from your fist link if netting is what you want to use. Keep in mind that peas will climb anything - even a couple of broken tree branches stuck in the ground and even each other - so since your peas are in a container you don't need much for support and these are awfully big for a container. Your deck rail, an inexpensive wood trellis or a piece of chicken wire, or just a 3 stick tepee and some string stuck in the container works fine. And they are easier to clean up come fall as all the little pea tendrils cling tightly to the support even when dead. If it doesn't cost you much then you can always just throw it away rather than try to clean it. ;) Dave PS: your squash and melons won't climb so don't need this.

Hi Megan, You might find Amy Padgett's website on her roses useful there (link attached). She lives in Eastern NC, zone 8, and you might well have good experiences in Eastern SC with some of the same roses she likes in her no-spray yard. Specifically, she highly recommends both Souvenir de la Malmaison and Old Blush as favorite roses that are especially easy to grow and good for beginners. Not that you're a beginner, but that ought to be yet another clue that a rose will do well without a lot of fussing over it and spraying. Your list has so many roses that I either have or want that perhaps some that I happen to like might also appeal to you: General Gallieni. Needs room. Lovely fragrance to the attractive red blooms with lighter reverse sides. Can take a bit of shade, like many other teas. Grows horizontally like a rambler the first year, but then grows upwards. Evergreen. General Schablikine. Lovely blooms on an attractive plant that doesn't get as large as many teas do. Blooms that are good for cutting start early and continue into the early winter. Evergreen. Moonlight, the hybrid musk. Nice flowers, good for cutting, flexible stems. It held onto its leaves all winter, in a colder than average winter, and is doing great/blooming now. Very shade tolerant. It was evergreen here in zone 7. Ghislaine de Feligonde. If you have the space for it, this is a worry-free rose that's also shade tolerant. I especially like the looks of its foliage; it reminds me slightly of fern foliage. Our new one (planted last fall) hasn't quite opened its buds yet but it's absolutely covered in buds. Very bushy, but also can be used as a short climber. Evergreen. Crepuscle. We just got this one but everything I can find out about it for NC/SC (and plenty of other warm areas besides) is very positive for use as a short climber for a no-spray yard. Some shade tolerance. Amazone. We just got this one too. It was found in Bermuda, where there is plenty of humidity, so it should do well in NC/SC. If you read Help Me Find on this one, and you'll want to order it. It's pretty vigorous here thus far. Some shade tolerance. Spice. Also found in Bermuda, and new here too. Lion's Fairy Tale. We are taking a chance on this one for no-spray. It's new this spring, but once it came it bowled me over with the beauty of its huge blooms; I'm glad to be taking the chance on it. The plant will stay relatively small and can fit nicely into the front of a large planting. Gruss An Aachen. Our three did extremely well even in an amount of direct sunlight that's less than ideal. They love to bloom from early to late in the season, and the blooms are luscious. Others in other areas of the east coast report problems with disease. Ours did get a little powdery mildew a few times but hosing it down a few times worked just fine. No very noticeable blackspot problems. Ours came from Chamblees and I don't know whether their particular cultivar is any different from others, but we were thrilled with those roses (until they got Rose Rosette Disease so we had to toss them). We are going to replace them with more Gruss An Aachens. Good shade tolerance. Not quite evergreen in zone 7. Westside Road Cream Tea. This is a tea rose found in California that grows slowly and doesn't get large. There are lots of uses for small tea roses, so I hope our new plants do well. They came as bands and are still tiny, tiny, tiny at this moment. Rise 'n' Shine. New here. A heavy bloomer that's a good yellow fading to light yellow; the entire effect is quite attractive. Rose Rosette. A tiny pure pink rose that looks perfect in every way. (Imagine a tiny version of your Belinda's Dream.) Good for cutting long-lasting blooms. David Austin's Mortimer Sackler. No-spray here, though we've had to replace them due to RRD. A delicately beautiful pink rose with some fragrance. Can be used as a short climber and it seems a natural for that kind of use; the canes are extremely flexible. Mostly evergreen in zone 7. Red Cascade. We haven't tried this miniature climber/rambler by Ralph Moore, but I'd like to one of these days if I could find a sunny enough place for it. It looks wonderful to me, though I don't know whether anyone in the Carolinas has tried it. Anyway, Antique Rose Emporium sells it. Best wishes, Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Amy Padgett's roses in eastern NC

Since none of the pros have piped up with their precise secret formulas, here's how I'd swag it: -Bathroom is about 16' x 10', so order 160 square feet of the floor tile. Yeah, the tile goes a little further than 16' in the toilet room, but I didn't subtract the shower or tub footprint, so those offset it, plus eat up the off cuts. -Shower walls: looks like you've got 2 that are about 5x8 and 2 that are ~2x8 (assume 8 foot ceilings), so that's 112 square feet for them. Not subtracting the area for the accent strip will cover off-cuts. -Shower floor and ceiling: Two ~5x5 spaces, so you need 50 square feet. The square is cut off on the door side, reducing the need, but keep it in to cover off-cuts. -Accent strip: 16" wide x 14 feet of wall length = 19 feet. I'd round up on this. -Deco tiles: You've got 1 every 5.5", over 14 feet, which is 30 tiles. Get a couple extra in case you break one. And on everything, round up the nearest box size.

You asked: I hate it. The bottom one looks like someone took a traditional, wicker sofa and wrapped it in leather. Those very formal, old fashioned arms, and bun feet, don't go with the eclectic, casual style of the upholstery. The shape of the red sofas is much more appropriate, but it would be better in all leather. Leather is great with kids so long as they don't have sharp things in their pockets and can be trusted not to poke pencils into it. It cleans up with water and saddle soap. But it does stick to bare skin, and can get hot. It's nature's vinyl. Which is why they combine it with fabric. Bad move. Either be fabric or be leather. The weight and texture are too different and they rarely come out looking great, especially after some living happens. The red bench is cool! Less imposing than a sofa table (console), but with a lot of the same function. And it's folky and funky. My Aunt had the two sofas flanking the fireplace in her living room. It's a great conversation grouping, but not so much for TV watching. For that, especially for the kids who probably look at the screen more, you want a straight on view. You can do a big square, though. An L of couch and settee or second couch or loveseat, and a couple of small easy chairs that are easy to get around on the opposite side. You have your red chairs. I'm not sure if they're too big to allow people to walk by easily if you close up the square, but even so, you can always pull them over for company, and keep them by the piano for family time with running kids. Re Larry, have your other family members sit tested him? I totally agree about the shape. It's very tired. But that LOVE thing is important. Your family room couch should feel Ahhh to sit on. I'm sure it'll still be there though. Maybe you can find a similarly comfy couch in a more classic shape that will give you more breadth of possibilities. Comfort comes first, but it can be done with a little more style than poor Larry. ;-)