A good rule is a light source every 8 ft of hall length. Using a covered 2 lamp fixture should be fine for 8' ceilings. Sounds like you already have those. If your placement is now 6' from each end then you have about 16 feet of space with no light. If this is correct, you really need 2 more fixtures. If you were planning this from scratch, you needed a light at the top of the stairs, which sounds like you have, and then a source of light every 8 feet or so. When designing a lighting plan I try to plan these to fall in front of closets or other elements that need extra light, if they don't contain their own sources. If you don't have any power source or can't add one for the closet, a battery operated motion fixture could work there. Place it inside the door on the wall next to the door so you can reach it easily. You can just stick your hand in to activate it and turn it off the same way or just let it turn off with the built-in timer. Use the LED ones that stay cool. These are realtively inexpensive. Try LC-LED-480 which is intended for the ceiling if you have room or LC-LED-4835,that works great on the wall. One source is yourlightsite.com. Look under Off the Grid fixures. Don't change the glass on the fixtures to clear. Clear glass creates a lot of glare and can very uncomfortable unless you use very low wattage bulbs. In your case, this would defeat the purpose. Clear glass and clear light bulbs actually produce less useable light due to the glare factor. Clear light bulbs should only be used for a decorative purpose and always with lower wattage bulbs or with a dimmer. Frosted or white glass will reflect the light in a broader area shielding the light, reducing glare and distracting shadows. Never use clear light bulbs behind white or frosted glass, they produce filament shadow which is very unattractive. I prefer recessed lighting supplemented with wall sconces for halls if this was a new project. In very long hallways I try to include recessed step lights as nightlights. Working with what you have, and purchasing 1 more to match should do the job. Of course you will need to run additional wiring to the new fixtures, but they can all use the same switch, which hopefully is located at the top of the stairs. Just a note: Don't overlook the possibility of using a motion activated switch for the hall lights if the installed switch is not convenient for turning off, once a person goes into the bedroom for the night. It is a lot less expensive that multiple location swtiches, especially working with exisitng structures. If your hall is wide enough, s small demilune table with a portable lamp can also make the hall more inviting and act as a night light when fitted with long lasting energy effiecient bulbs. Hope this helps. Ginger Rushing, CLC

So, if I understand correctly, he's been doing this for a year now? My guess is something is really stressing him within the new home. Are there any other pets inside or outside the home? Are there any strays hanging around outside your bedroom? He's had a lot of changes thrown at him and I suggest you find a food he likes to eat (not what you think is good for him) and a litter that he'll use. With the litter, start with a clumping clay litter that is unscented (Petco bulk is a good one). If he's never eaten canned then you may have to transition him from dry to canned, but if he was doing well on a particular dry food, and prefers it, then give him that. It just sounds like you have an unhappy, stressed cat and the pooping on the bed is just a symptom. I think the first thing you have to do is put up some type of barrier and keep him out of the room so that he can't continue the behavior. It's just like the routine he had of going in the bathroom sink......preventing access is crucial in breaking the pattern of what is becoming a habit. Carefully observe everything in your home to try to determine what could be upsetting your cat. It seems something changed during the 6 months after your move since he apparently had no problems before the move. Check below for info re: transition from dry to canned food. Here is a link that might be useful: Cat info

The door has swelled due to excess moisture being absorbed into the wood. The bath fan is absent or not on long enough and/or the door tops and bottoms have never been painted to keep the moisture out. Two options are available. 1. Cut the door so it fits correctly at this time. Then paint all the sides of the door. 2. Wait until December when the heat is on and the door dries out and shrinks. Then paint all sides of the door to keep it from swelling this time next year. Ron

This question sure hit home for me. My ex actually left me after five years saying one of the reasons was that I suggested our guest use the guest bathroom as apose to the ensuite in our master bedroom. The other reason was his daugher was extremely jealous about me. Lol My ex and I resided together at the lake house. His daugher would invite lots of guest up to party all hours of the night on weekends or weekdays, and I needed one private space, there were no boundaries. I often beat myself up wondering if my request was too much to ask for. I’m sixty years old and don’t think it was unreasonable to prevent the kids from walking thorugh our bedroom and using our bathroom. We had our tolitires and I didn’t really want to share my lofa and soaps, espcially through Covid. We had a perfectly four piece bathroom on the main floor!