Derek asks: 1. Does the container have to be raised? It doesn't necessarily have to be raised, but if the container and wick are sitting in a puddle, it's not going to work. My containers sit on pavement with drainage holes at the bottom. Can I just run a wick from the bottom of the container to nearby soil? You might get some advantage doing that, but it would be much more effective if you just set the pot with a wick on the soil or grass next to the pavement until it has stopped draining. 2. Can I insert the wick while there's soil in the pot? Yes. If so, how far should the wick be inserted? It only has to be inserted so it's in contact with the saturated part of the soil column. Can I just do something simple like attach the wick to something like a chopstick and run it into one of the drainage holes? Yes - If I need a wick after a planting is established, I fold a mop strand over the blade of a straight slotted screwdriver and push it into the soil through the drain hole. Ananda - I don't quite understand your questions, but I can say that soil composition, and mainly particle size, determines whether or not a soil can support perched water. If a net pot is filled with a soil that CAN support perched water, it might or might not support perched water, For example - if you set a net pot filled with water-retentive media on concrete, it will support perched water; but, if you set it on soil or another substrate that can serve as a wick. the PWT might disappear entirely, even if the soil is capable of supporting a PWT of significant ht. Al

Cheap solution - get yourself a pair of latex or any household gloves to protect your hands. Dip a piece of paper towel into rubbing alcohol and try to wipe the stain. Second option - 1:3 bleach to water solution. If it is some kind of mold - you will kill it, if it is a salt accumulation - you will be able to remove at least some of it. I agree with you - if it looks yucky - you do not want to display your beautiful blooming violet in it. What you can do - just repot it to a plastic pot with wick with the size that will fit your ceramic one. Soak the ceramic pot - top and bottom in a strong bleach solution until all the stain is gone. You can drill a bottom hole in an upper part of a ceramic pot and use the bottom part as a water/weak fertilizer solution reservoir for the plant. I promise you - if you use the light soil Barbara mentioned - you would be amazed how well it works plus you can always disassemble the contraption - and clean your ceramics squeaky clean. Physan 20 is a good preventative for powdery mildew and a mild fungicide for orchids. It has a couple more brand names with the similar active ingredients - I think Consan is one of them. I.

Taras - the very young plant - probably will do better if you stick it in a covered transparent box - and move it away from the direct sun. It will preserve the moisture and it will be OK. It is risky to change your method of watering just before a vacation - because you are not experienced yet. So probably a friend with a watering can will be a better option. Otherwise - seems that 1:1:1 soil is correct. You need to have enough water in your reservoir - it can be a cut-off soda bottle - or a glass jar or you can put your plants on top of the deli containers will with water with fertilizer solution with a hole in a lid - you can thread your wick through. You need to see how other people do it - then you can figure out the best way for yourself. Keep searching the internet for plant wicking and check if you have a violet club in your area. Somebody to show you the ropes would be perfect. Good Luck Irina

I agree with Irina. I'd immediately pull it out and inspect the roots. If you do not see nice plump white roots ends poking out of the soil or if the soil falls away from the roots and they are brown, then you need to take action. Gently tug on some of them - do they come out easily? From past experience with store bought plants, I'd just about bet it's a root issue. If the roots are fine, remove the droopy leaves as Irina suggested and repot in a smaller pot. If the roots are not fine, then you have more work to do. Remove all the leaves except the ones close to the crown - maybe leave 6-8. Then remove all the roots. If there is an rotting or mushy areas, remove that until what's left is firm and green/ivory colored. If the area where the roots are is sort of like bark, then gently scrape it with your fingernail - don't go deep - I seem to recall that the cells that from roots are on the top surface, not throughout the whole meristem, but I'm not sure. Better safe than sorry. Dust with a bit of hormone if you like, then repot in a 2.5 inch pot, 3" max. I like to use just damp sphagnum moss and put the pot in a plastic bag for these situations. Let the sphagnum sit in some water for at least 5 to 10 minutes to get wet throughout. Before using it, wring it out in your hand - you want it to be damp like a wrung out sponge - water shouldn't drip from it when you squeeze. Put the crown/meristem in the moss, bag it, and set on your light stand. Check the moisture level every so often - once a week is plenty. If you need to add some, add a teeny amount - I actually use an eye dropper. Look for roots in a couple of weeks. I move mine to soilless mix when I see roots, but still leave it bagged or in a covered container for at least another month. If I tug gently and the soil moves, I leave it. When the soil barely moves or doesn't move, I slowly acclimate it to the room temp/humidity and then add it to my collection.