After reading about this plant, I must just be allergic to it. I pulled it out 2 different times as it looked like a weed and both times it made my hands burn-kind of like having a bunch of needles stuck in my hand. Must just be me, and I won't touch it again with out gloves on. I thought it was perhaps from the hairy stem of the plant itself. Thanks for the ID of it.

By any chance has the battery been replaced or disconnected lately? My son's 03 Galant had the exact same issue after the battery was replaced. It drove us crazy trying to figure out how to get the computer to relearn the idle. Until we read the owners manual about replacing the battery, that said to let it idle for 10 minutes after reaching operating temp. It worked. This might not be your issue. But I thought I'd use your post to bring to light what can happen when the battery is disconnected. Good luck with it.

Delbert, Earthworm, thanks for the advice, well taken. The sway bar links (bolts) came cheap from local auto parts store. I did as you said and removed both old ones (had to cut them loose with a hacksaw). The washers and sleeve that surrounds the bolt were all "frozen" together after 12 years. So, there was no loosening the nut or bolt on either side. The passenger side bolt broke once I applied stress to turn it loose. Lots of labor hacksawing, but worth it. Sway bar swung free once both bolts were removed, and easy to install new bolts. Chilton's manual told what torque spec to follow and having a torque wrench is one of the best investments i've made. The axles are next - right after the brakes and tires. Have to take it a step at a time for pocket book's sake. I wont' need a front end alignment unless I remove the struts, correct? Struts / springs are squeaky, but no leaking and seem okay on the bounce test. Also, right now, car drives with no pulling to left or right. Thanks again! dennis

Ok, first off, what engine do you have? 3.1, 3.8, 2.4? I am going to guess 2.4L 4 cyl. I worked for several years as a GM dealer service tech. If you have the 2.4L then you probalby have a blown head gasket/cracked head. These engines are known for that. Not as much as their predecessors, the Quad Four, but they do have the same problems. They are just a slightly updated version the the Quad Four, but with the name 2.4 Twin Cam on top instead. This will most likely be expensive, but you should get it checked out and if needed repaired soon. Water will not damage bearings imeadietly, but the glycol in the coolant most certainly will. If you have the 3.1L then you probalby have a blown intake gasket. These are known to leak oil externally as well as water both externally and internally. If the water/coolant mix gets in the oil, thats bad for the engine bearings. This will not be as expensive to fix, but will be about 6 hrs labor. If you have the 3.8L, there is a plastic fitting, I think on the passenger side, on the engine for the heater hose to connect to the intake manifold. These will crack and leak. Sometimes the come completely off. If this is the case, take the old one off and take it with you to the dealer's parts department. The counter man will probably know what is came off of without you even telling him (that's how common this is). The new one is steel and costs $10 or so. It won't break like the old on. The only trick here is that you may need an easy-out to get the part that is broken out of the engine. The 3.8L also had some issues with the intake gasket, similar to the 3.1L. I have also see the upper intake plenum crack on these and leak water into the engine making you think you have a bad head gasket. Anyhow, check the oil for coolant contamination. If it has coolant in it, it will be foamy or look like a chocholate milk shake. If is looks like this, this is bad. Get it fixed NOW. You will damage the engine. Otherwise, you should probably buy/borrow/rent a pressure tester and check the system for leaks. With this aparatus, you remove the radiator cap and pump up the tester to pressurize the system. There is a gauge on the tester, 16-18 psi sould be good. Them watch the gauge for the pressure to drop. If it does the you have a leak somewhere. Look all around for any seepage or drips. While is is rare and would not be likely on this new of a car, be sure to check for cooland dripping around the starter/flywheel area. There are two freeze plugs in the rear of the engine block, behind the flywheel. If one is leaking you must remove either the engine or transmission to access them for repairs. When you add coolant, do so with the engine cold. Then remove the radiator cap. Fill the radiator completely full. If there is air in the radiator, then the engine can't suck coolant from the overflow tank. Put the cap back on the radiator. Then check the overflow tank and fill it to the cold mark as needed. Good luck, and please let us know what engine you have.