Absolute minimum is 5 acres, and you should expect to supplement the grass. Better would be 10-20, as that way you can have 3 or more grazing areas and change over as soom as one looks poorly, not having to wait until the initial one has re-grown. Goats like browse, so unless the trees are fairly tall, they might get eaten, and if the trunks slope they will get climbed. However, since they are something to eat - and if you fence off the trunks so the goats can't chew the bark - I would think the goats would be happy having shrubs or trees to browse on and to give shelter. Just be SURE none of them are toxic - I don't know what is bad for goats, but googling will probably bring up a list. It's almost impossible to give a hard and fast timetable for rotating - it all depends on the grass regrowth, and that depends on rain. I would say that when the one pasture is looking short - grazed down to a couple of inches, then it's time to move them. In the rapid growth periods, this may be longer than in the dryer periods. Google for rotational grazing or rotational pasture management, and I am sure you will get more details. If you get really good grass growth, you might leave one area out of the rotation and let it stockpile for haying or for winter grazing - saving on your hay bill. You will need to have a way to get water to all pastures, and, if the trees aren't thick, build some sort of shelter from wind, rain and the hottest sun. Gates need to be handy to switch pastures without escapes, and also be big enough for a tractor to bush-hog and to bring feed or fencing materials as needed. Plan accordingly.

A lot of time, basic 6x6's will come with tile lugs that create a predetermined spacing for the tile. You need to find out if the tile you are interested in has that. If not, then remember that the thinner the grout lines, the less wavy your wall has to be or else you will have problems. If you are doing this from the studs out as new construction, then be sure that you use a long enough level to check to be sure that all of the studs are plumb and they are all perfectly in line. If one is off, it will throw off your whole tile spacing if you are planning on thin grout lines. Thicker grout lines are always more forgiving for a novice tiler.

So now you see there is a reason for algebra after all! I was contemplating the purchase of a non-stick skillet last year - one was round the other was square. I was quite proud of myself for remembering the (simple) formula to calculate the surface area. Than a week later I happened to run into my son's 8th grade math teacher who lives in our town (DS is now in his 30's) and I jokingly told her....she just laughed and said she was going to use it as an example in her class.

Ours is currently 54" (galley, sink one side, range other), and that's just fine for us. So, the one thing I can think of you might want "extra" space for is when things conflict--for us, the oven opening doesn't conflict with the DW being open, but it sure makes for difficult walking, especially if you think about how hot the oven is. So, we don't do that--but yours is a cooktop! Guess I wouldn't necessarily plan to want to have the DW open plus large drawers on the other side? Do you often have the DW open when cooking, for instance? Which side of the stove will you likely stand to prep/cook? That kind of conflict thing, not a "horrible bad" thing. Oh, and you asked why you'd make it bigger: Main corridor of the house, for instance, where you'd want to allow more space because of non-kitchen traffic. Multiple cooks might like more space (we're OK with 2-3 and 54"). When we renovate, we'll likely drop to 48", to get 3" extra on each countertop, because that tradeoff is worth it to us. It's all tradeoffs, much like the rest of life!