A comment I will make is about the two doors which would be adjoined in the corner and then they both pull out when you open one (they are hinged together). I have had that before and really liked it. Well, let me put it this way, with our new kitchen design, my contractor (not using a KD) brought the cabinets in and without the countertops on you can look in from above into a corner very similar to yours and there is this HUGE WASTED UNUSABLE space! And I need all the storage I can get from this kitchen as opposed to other kitchens I have had in the past. I suggested changing it to one of those hingable cabinets but my stove is just wide enough that it will obscure opening the cabinet so I guess I couldn't have done it anyway....but I hate seeing that wasted space.

Also, I would do the 15" overhang for leg room, if you really want to be comfortable. I have sat at islands/peninsulas before and there is barely enough room to get your legs under and you feel like you are stooped over or trying to stay balanced all the time.

I love your idea on the X mullions. I wish I had done that as I have always admired that look.

Your kitchen looks like it will be beautiful!!

Thank you southern. I will request the 15" leg room at peninsula, and I will probably go with the hinged corner door.

I realize I posed a *lot* of questions at once, but my most pressing concern right now has to do with the measurements of the upper cabs: should I stay with them the way they are now (18"w and 24"w on the outer glass cabs and 27"w on the inner closed cabs) OR change to 21" and 27" w for the outer glass and 24"w for the inner closed? I just think a narrow 18" w glass cab running to the counter will not look "substantial" enough.

Yes, I would narrow the cabinets next to the hood in order to have larger cabinets coming down to the counter. And I would also make those cabinets be the same size. Your focus on symmetry is off with the two different size cabinets, and symmetry in uppers is far more important than it is in lower cabinets. It's what the eye sees. And currently it feels lopsided with one cabinet larger than the other. So, make those cabinets flanking the hood 24" and flank those with 21" cabinets.

If you want a 36" drawer, a 9" tray base is a very usable cabinet next to a range, but I'd take this option only if you could also get the symmetry of another 9" base on the other side of the range.

Thanks, live wire oak. Unfortunately, we cannot move the range at this point and so there is going to be more upper cab room to the right of the hood than to the left. I'm hoping that as long as the cabs directly flanking the hood are symmetrical, it will look okay. I've even tried to convince myself that the different width glass outer cabs will add an element of appealing "quirkiness" to the design. Or so I can hope.:) Anyway, I agree with you that the longer cabs need to also be wider. Thanks for your input.

My votes, LOL:
1) Definately closed stacked top cabinets all the way across. I too like the vintage look.

2) The X is interesting, but I wouldn't do it in the narrow left cabinet. It'll draw further attention to the cabinet being a different width. How about leaded bevel glass, like the one in the link below on ebay.

3) I would narrow the short cab to widen the tall cabinets, but I wouldn't go any further than 24" for the short cab for range function.

4) I know you said you would like inset cabinets. But another vintage look is inset for the uppers and partial overlay for the lowers. That way the 9" cabient might have more function. Otherwise I think 30" wide drawers would be very nice.

5) I think 15" would work for trays, you just get to fit more trays :).

6) I have an L shaped door with shelves inside, so not quite fair, but I hate it. I would MUCH rather have drawers. To me, corner cabinets seem to gain you space, but in reality it isn't all that great. JMHO though. Also, it's more of a vintage look without the corner cabinet, but that corner isn't very visible to matter much.

8) How about put a bookshelf there? It won't be very accessible but might look nice. Question, why so deep a counter?

Here is a link that might be useful: leaded bevel glass door

Would definitely go closed on the stacked cabs if that's what you like best. It would be my preference, too.

I don't think of the X pattern as being the classic and wouldn't prefer it myself. I think I'd get tired of it. Too fussy for me.

I wouldn't reduce the size of the cabinets to the side of the hood if it won't enable you to make that whole wall symmetrical. The tall cabinet on the right side should line up with the sink wall of cabinets...In other words it should stay at 24", so I think that leaves the rest of the wall as is, if you can't move the range? I strongly believe that it will look heavy if it overhangs the side cabinets by being wider than the 24" it already is.

Can you move the range just 3" to the right?

If so you could have:
21" tall, 27" short, 36" range, 27" short, 21" tall or
24" tall, 24" tall, 36" range, 24" short, 24" tall

Mom2lilenj - you're asking why the peninsula counter is so deep, right? The stove wall counter is the standard 24" deep. The peninsula is 48" deep to allow for standard 24" base cabs on the prep side, and 24" deep drawers under the hutch for "information" purposes.Originally there were going to be drawers and cabinets all along the peninsula on the information side, but we scrapped that plan, but we still want the deep drawers under the hutch for non-food storage. Also, I think with the main sink on the one-level peninsula, I need a 48" deep counter so nothing gets splattered on the other side, right?

Rhome, I will ask gc if we can move range 3" to the right. This would definitely improve symmetry. Also, when you say the tall cab on the right should line up with the sink wall of cabinets, you're talking about the base cabinets, right? Right now, the left edge of the right glass cab lines up exactly with the corner of the cabinet run. Are you saying if it was widened a bit to the left, then it will look too heavy?
Any other thoughts on the corner cab versus base drawers to the right of the range? And if I stand firm and do drawers, any options besides a void? I thought there might be room for a baking tray pullout right after the corner and just before the trash. (there are 12" between the corner and the trash pullout.) It doesn't seem to me that I would lose a whole lot of functional space if I did this; just the far back corner and without a lazy susan, am I really going to use it much anyway?

How about if you change the dining side peninsula 18" deep and recess the base hutch cabinet into the "void". Less wasted space and an overhang that's more in proportion to what's needed for seating.

Oh, I forgot that's not going to work that corner is load bearing. Hmmm.....

That is what I meant. I think if that right side tall cabinet is wider than the adjacent base cabinet run (that it sits on), it'll look like it's overhanging/too heavy/a mistake.

I think the base cabs, as they are, do well to make a balanced look in the absence of symmetry. If you did drawers on both sides, you'd want to balance things. It's hard to know exactly how to advise, when you're considering moving the range, which would change all the measurements. I know function is important above looks, but I do like the equally sized cabinets on either side of the range.

15" isn't too wide for trays, as long as you have a rack or divider.

Regarding the corner cabinet. I have a super susan right now but am not putting it in my new kitchen. I went back a forth a few times but decided the larger drawers were what I really wanted. If I'd kept the corner cabinet I'd have had a 13" pullout, corner cabinet and 24" DB. Instead I have a 24" DB, a void in the corner, a 6" open cab (for cutting boards) and 30" DB. Even with inset, the 9" cabinet would make a useful spice pull out or tray cabinet. I think your kitchen is going to be gorgeous.