I am in the midst of choosing colors for my renovated bungalow and am trying to get colors to "flow" while staying with earth tones mostly but not doing the same color everywhere! Quite a challenge. I started with my trim (at the insistence of cabinet maker, who is making medicine cabinets with trim to match what's around the windows and doors) and chose BM "cotton balls" (hope I don't find that too white but I wanted something whiter than what I had before, which was Ivory White). The kitchen will have cherry cabinets, medium brown wood floors, soapstone counters, and the backsplash tiles are hand made 3x6 that vary from light green with gray to greenish-gray with darker gray edges - I chose Sebring White. The sunroom I'm thinking Vale Mist, the den off the sunroom maybe Vale Mist mixed at 25% (lots less natural light), the hallways Morning Dew, the living room off the hallway Coastal Fog, the dining room next to it (and leading back into the kitchen) Tapestry Beige (in part to pick up color in fabric of dining chair seat). Master BR I've chosen Silken Pine but mixed at 150% - it's to complement the bathroom tile, which is P&L P138 (of course I'm using the store's sample and who knows if the tile will actually be that color!). Trying to decide what do about ceilings. If my builder and architect get what they want, I'd use "ceiling white" but no way am I going to go with yet another white - it will either be Cotton Balls (in a different finish than the trim) or should I go with the room colors, perhaps mixed at 50%? Thoughts? TMI????

I've used Behr paints quite a bit, no problem with it. I have not found any paint brand that is really "one coat coverage" especially when painting a light color over a dark. Maybe its just my painting skills, but I always need to do 2 coats. I've also used Valspar, Clark and Kensington and Benjamin Moore. I've never used Sherwin WIlliams, simply because it wasn't available nearby. I see that Lowes does sell a version of Sherwin Williams paint now, so I might try that the next time I need paint. Whatever is on sale, I've used but I never get the cheapest paint in whatever line I choose. I will say, we don't have children or dogs that can get the walls dirty, so I've never had to test how well the paint handles scrubbing, my walls stay pretty clean.

I think that may have more to do with Hue Family location & Chroma, rather than the notion of warm or cool? Lots of people struggle with pinker near neutrals next to more yellow based ones for example. Not necessarily wrong, but may feel slightly off to some eyes. In that particular case the distance between them may require a bridge of another colour in order to create a more pleasing sense of harmony for many. Interestingly, if you pick a Hue Family location on the Color Strategist Wheel and then look across the wheel to its complement, it will have the opposite warm or cool designation.

You need to understand that color is 3 dimensional, hue is only one part of the equation. The 90 degree hue at low chroma levels and light luminosity is just slightly orange (ish) yellow. See below where it is shown next to a neutral gray (upper left corner). Yellow is unique in that we don't see dark yellow (think about powder blue and navy). Now picture powder yellow and try to picture a yellow that would be comparable to navy. It goes to gold and then to brown. As we desaturate yellow it goes to olive green. You also need to understand that because the human brain ingests so much information we group the information coming into our brain and we automatically compare colors. Painting samples on your wall means that you are seeing the color in comparison to whatever color is currently on the wall. I suspect that you have a lot of greens in your space in addition to the green in the kitchen and possibly have a bit of green undertone in the wall color that you are painting over. I have the opposite problem as you do with Edgecomb Gray - it is far too yellow/green (looks like an old yellowed tooth). I have a lot of pinks, reds, purples including a large pink brick fireplace wall. The center blocks below are all Edgecomb Gray. Can you see why it turns yellow for me and fleshy orange for you? To test the colors you really need to be looking at the colors without the influence of your current wall color. Prime the wall white or use large white poster board behind the samples. Look at the colors next to all colors that are going to stay. (Flooring, trim, furniture). Edgecomb Gray will always have just the slightest orange tinge. It will probably never look good with your colors. Do you like how light/dark it appears (LRV or Luminosity)? If so you want to try some colors with similar luminosity and chroma, but increase the hue. Here are some I have in my file: My sister has a home with a lot of green undertones and if I were pulling colors for her home I would start with SW Sedate Gray, BM Hazy Skies and BM Paris Rain. Keep track of the LCH codes and note what you like/don't like. Best of luck - let us know how things work out.