How out of level is your floor? There are leveling compounds available in the flooring section of your local home center but depending on the condition of the floor you might run into trouble with the closet flange. If the floor isn't out more than 3/16" to 1/4" over the five feet, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Most folks don't study bathroom floors and the tile and grout lines will help to confuse the eyes too. You can fudge a bit by being a little generous with the thinset too. Mike

Actually I used self leveling cement on other parts but I guess I missed this hump :( But the issue now it would take way too much cement since its not a dip but an isolated bump. So any recommendations on how to fix this?

I hate to even tell my story, but I don't want anyone to experience what we did: Used locally-owned flooring store, installed engineered Hickory; glue-down on slab floor. My GC had gone AWOL on me, so I didn't have him questioning my reasonings for doing a moisture test. Basically, the flooring store owner did it (tent test in about 5-6 diff places) because the guarantee wouldn't be valid if we didn't show we'd tested before gluing down. The testing came out fine, we ordered our floors and moved on to next thing. Few weeks later, our painter is in the house, notices a large bucket of ... something (sorry, don't remember, but one of those big buckets of something you can actually use like a stool) has been moved, and there's a water ring on the concrete. He's been around construction his whole life, and tells me that to HIM, what he's seeing indicates a moisture problem. And no, we didn't know to install a vapor barrier when pouring the slab. I tell flooring guy, he reminds me we tested fine, and says as long as we use the sealant/glue recommended by the manufacturer, it will be all the sealant we need even if there is a slight moisture problem in a few random areas. It's a small town, I've known the guy all my life, I know he's on the line if we have a problem just as much as we are, so we proceed w/the glued-down engineered hardwood. W/in weeks, you can wander around the big open living area and when you feel a little "give" underfoot, drop to your knees and rap knuckles on the wood and get a hollow sound. Dead giveaway that the glue and the floor are pulling away from slab. There are small pockets in several places, but the biggest problem is a large area between my kitchen island and the transitional area into living room. Cut to weeks of the flooring manufacturer refusing to honor the warranty - they swear we didn't use their product to install (which we did), they claim there has to be a plumbing leak in the slab or a pre-existing moisture problem (which we tested for, and they'd seen the "just fine" results months before.) Flooring store owner starts blaming AWOL GC, who'd been around pretty consistently during the pouring of slab, the moisture testing, etc. He also acted as our plumber, and checked every way he knew how to see if there was indeed a leak in the slab; he flatly declared there was not. Bottom line? My hickory floors came up, the flooring store owner and I wound up splitting the costs not covered by manufacturer (I'll look up exactly who it was, if anyone wants to know). It was AWFUL. Watching that beautiful floor get literally ripped up in pieces killed me; we replaced w/16" ceramic tile. So in my individual case, passing the moisture test didn't mean anything to anyone once it was clear our engineered hardwood was pulling away from the slab. I'm sure it was either a complete fluke, or there was a plumbing leak somewhere, but it left me terribly gunshy. Basically, I won't put down any kind of wood in new build unless we do a sub-floor. (In our area, Oklahoma, soil isn't suited to basements - almost all new builds of any size/cost go with slab foundation.)

Sorry but that is a rather large height variation over a large square footage. The concrete will have to be roughed up (possibly shot or sand blasted to give it some "tooth"). Then it has to be cleaned and primed (with a primer that will work with the Self Leveling Compound (SLC). And that primer MUST MATCH the moisture levels existing in the slab (that means the professional MUST test FOR MOISTURE). Once the floor is ready for the SLC (properly ordered because some SLC does NOT like to get any thicker than 3/4" and others do not like to go THINNER than 1/8"....fun right?) the professional will mix massive amounts (as geoffrey_b points out this could arrive in a big mixer that has a hose that snakes through a window or a basement door). Then it must be allowed to cure. The 'rule of thumb' for concrete (not all, but it gives you a sense of 'timing' for your project) is 1 day for every millimeter (1/32") of concrete poured. If they pour ONLY 3/4" (doesn't happen, but let's play the game) then you need to know that 3/4" = 18mm. That means you are looking at 18 days of cure time before the floor can be laid (almost 3 weeks). The cool thing about SLC is it is NOT self leveling. Yep. Total misnomer there. As for 'inexpensive as possible'....it is really a matter of perspective. In the industry, a job like this can go as high as $5/sf. That means "inexpensive" is $3/sf. Concrete specialists can be called upon to do this. If there are moisture concerns (like a slab that is from the 1980's or earlier) then you can bring in a moisture remediation company that specializes in "damp" basements. They will have ALL the tools and ALL the expertise to deal with a large job like this. This is normally well beyond the skill set of "Joe the flooring guy" (or Jill the flooring girl to be PC).